dmband8985

Just don't be surprised if the shaft of the driver in that box set snaps after 5 good whacks with it, or if you find yourself on the range and the guy working there has to use to loud speaker to tell everyone to stop hitting balls so you can go retrieve your 8 iron's head. Been there done that and just trying to help others avoid the pitfalls I experienced in the frustrating beginning days of golf. Just wanted to say there are lots of ways to put together a really good bag with either brand new or used equipment that will last you 4-5 years easily for $500...as opposed to spending $300 next week and then $500 next year

Welcome to the site and welcome back to the game. You'll find that very few people here would ever give a thumbs up to any of those boxed sets from costco/dick's/golf galaxy. The reason is simple, they are not good. The game is hard enough as it is, and equipping yourself with shoddy equipment isn't going to do you any favors. I got into the game as a college student and certainly didn't have the means to buy the best game improvement irons out there, so I did lots of research and lots of shopping around so that I could put my first bag together. My tips are to look at previous years models and don't be afraid to go back several years. For $500 I'd recommend starting your searches in the following directions: Irons: Hireko golf- Acer Xk or XF. The great thing about Hireko is you can customize your set, so skip the 3 and 4 irons b/c you'll probably never hit them. Plust they are a dang decent iron...golf digest even featured them a few years ago in their hot list issue about how to put together a budget bag. Wilson Staff-I've seen the Ci9 for under $250...haven't hit them, but have played my brothers ci7 and I really like them for a GI iron...clean lines and feel great on impact I would add a hybrid and either a 3 wood or driver (whichever you hit better) and 54 or 56 degree wedge and obviously a putter. If you do your research right and hit up the sales, you could easily get under you $500 budget

'Not sure if it was mentioned it, but I cannot stand the guy that waits for the green to clear on the second shot of every damn par 5 and tees of short part 4. I have no problem with this if the person is actually good, but more likely than not, their justification for waiting is that they think they can hit a 300 yd drive or got 275 with their 3 wood or maybe hit one that far once on at a drving range, but not once in an actual round do they put it near the green. Best case scenario is they waste time for what was a decent layup, but more often than not they shank it b/c they waited too long to hit the ball and then are still away....makes me want to scream "for the love of god just take a hybrid and leave yourself a wedge!!!!!!"

Hey, just wondering why given his reven struggles with accuracy has TW not moved to a more forgiving bag setup? Wouldn't he benefit from having a set of VR Pro Combo's in his bag? I know he's been stubborn with new technology in the past like moving from steel to graphite in his driver and utilizing the big volume drivers, but doesn't it seem like he could get back some of his lost distance and accuracy by taking advantage of equimpent technology?

i can't speak about the cast versions, which i'm assuming your looking for info on, but i play the forged models and i love them. for a players iron, they are pretty forgiving and plenty long---but looking at the post above, those characteristics didn't pass to the cast version

why is your scotty grip bright pink?

just picked up bridgestone tour b330s dozen $27 at my LGS (local golf shop)

there is a bit of confusion out there as to what a "spine" is. the spine is defined as the plane that is least resistant to bending. when you load the shaft in a spine finder, it will rotate the the position that it is most comfortable bending in. this plane is called the NBP or natural bending plane. The spine is the plane that when loaded, the shaft won't return to the NBP. It will be 90 degrees from your NBP. at least that is how i've always understood it. if anyone else wants to correct me, feel free

tp reds/black--i've been using the reds since i was about a 15. soft feeling but spin and distance comparable to prov1x. both balls are similar in distance, just depends on the individual's preference oh yeah, and they are cheap these days with the penta's out..25 bucks or less everywhere.

bogey golf is perfect range for a game improvement iron--i'd say get the r7's.

you could do a lot worse than the xk irons. for the money, i'm not sure there are many other clubs out there as good as these. do yourself a favor though and get upgraded shafts won't cost that much more but crucial

must be a great putter if it got someone by the name of Titelist Man to drop coin on a putter that doesn't say Scotty Cameron on it

I've only had the putter for a couple of months...and I'm very careful with it...wipe it down after use and keep it in the cover, but i've notices the black finish is wearing off quite rapidly on the face...it doesn't change the feel or anything. is this something i should be worried about or is it how the finish is meant to wear? If you wanna see the damage I can take pictures this evening.

UST Mamiya V2 Tour Flight. You can get a great deal on it at golfsmith.com right now if you go to the clubmaking specials page. You buy the shaft and a UST Grip and you get 52% off. I got the shaft with SST puring service for $50 and change. I was having the same problem as you with my 08 f speed ld so I put this shaft in and cut it down half an inch. It is perfect now...carrying 270 with perfect trajectory

i like epoch's as well...but only b/c of the durability. they don't break all that often, but when they do, be sure to pick up your scraps. I imagine most people do it anyways, but even more important with the epochs since they don't break down as fast (they are biodegradable though) and they chew up the blades of the grass cutters

i've got nike forged cci's....the owner of the shop i bought them from threw in the covers for free. i probably wouldn't have bought them if he hadn't though. That said, i find i keep my clubs in the trunk for extended periods of time and i walk about 85% of the time, so they are growing on me.

just saw the email from golfsmith clubmaking. the 685 forged irons look pretty sweet...anyone build or hit them yet?

if you can't afford them now, don't buy them. no interest no payments sounds good now, but what is the cost to you in 6 months? what ridiculous rate of interest are they going to charge you? 20%?? 25%??? what is the late payment penalty? we live in a volatile world now...things are likely to get worse before they get any better. I myself do not believe in financing anything other than education and property...i'll throw cars in there as well. I don't put anything on a credit card that I know I can't pay in full during my grace period. my bag was funded almost entirely by a rainy day coin savings jar. about 5 years of change paid for my driver, irons, putter, and about a dozen rounds of golf...maybe more if i hadn't used the coinstar machine, but rolling pennies and dimes is entirely way too much effort you'd be amazed how much change you collect and forget about

love the golfsmith xtreme...just down the road from me...never a jungle like RD can sometimes be. lots of stalls to try everyclub in the store if you want to. The sales staff is a bit more personal i think too...went to go buy a putter last friday...salesman went out of his way to find just the right putter and get it set up just the way i wanted it. If anyone in OC wants to check out a much smaller store, I highly recommend Birdie Golf in Irvine...Its on Barranca, just east of culver (in woodbridge community). I bought my irons from them...they are great and will match the best prices from anywhere else. they can't match golfsmith for selection..but they always seem to have whatever i'm looking for..and for smaller club purchases like fairway woods/hybrids/wedges...they have the most popular models.

i just bought a Mr. Beasley...I could care less about the origins of the name, all I know is it feels amazings...no longer do i suffer from pushes and pulls

tp red/black...not listed under 30, but you can find them for 2 for 55...some places i've seen for 28 but not everywhere

saw this article in Southland Golf. sucks to see a quality company go under like nickent. i played nickent irons for the past 4 years and loved the product and service they provided. so far the last couple of years have been rough on the industry...hogan bought by callaway and disappeared, mcgreggor sold to golfsmith, nickent is done for...on the flipside, maybe i should pick up some new hybrids on the cheap...

in the market to add a 3wood and new putter to the bag. anyone know what golfsmith or any other store has got going for friday???

looks like someone is out of their element....the OP was talking about the spine and alignment of a shaft...not his physical spine. to answer the question....a shaft will have a plane which it is most comfortable bending on, or neutral bending position (nbp). 90 degrees from the nbp will be the spine (think of your spine being your strongest support four your body. how you align the spine and nbp with respect to the clubface and target line is a matter of personal preference. depending on whether the spine is in 12/6 o'clock or 3/9 oclock positions, you'll get slightly different feel out of your shafts. what is more important than the orientation is that all your shafts are oriented the same way...

explain your physics please. last time i checked, F=ma. I think you are talking about work done on the golf ball, in which case you are looking at W=1/2mv^2, which also equals kinetic energy by work-energy theorem.