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barnum1

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Everything posted by barnum1

  1. Hi, is there a preferred amount of hip rotation in the backswing? I have been taught 45 degrees (and then another 45 degrees in shoulder turn => 90 degrees in total), but I can't really see why. I guess there may be a risk getting the club too far behind you, but otherwise? I experimented a bit, and I can do more than 45, in spite of my age And it makes it easier to get inside-out and avoid over-the-top. But maybe that's correcting a fault with another?
  2. Both. Thanks, that's interesting. I do address the ball with the driver club head on the ground. I'll check what happens when I hover it slightly. Now I'm a "low-pegger", so at impact the driver header is pretty close to the ground. I still get a few degrees upwards AoA. I try to address the ball towards the toe with driver. Just to avoid "heeliness". Could that actually have the opposite effect? My brain thinks I need to move the club "longer out"? I can also add that I'm an inside-outer, probably coming from the inside 5 degrees.
  3. My "sweet spot misses" with driver are towards the heel, but with irons towards the toe. Is this typical? What could it say about my swing?
  4. So it's maybe a case of "can't have the cake and eat it"? (Can't get both higher club head speed and good AoA.) Another aspect is that with lower AoA, I should in theory get more control (more spin). But that may be counteracted with worse consistency/efficiency if I have higher club head speed. Sound like I have some experimenting to do. Thanks for the input!
  5. Hi, I have a typical flat swing, getting the club too much behind me. The good thing with that is that I have a sensible angle of attack with the driver, about 2-3 degrees up. But I also have a slower swing speed than I want (surprise!) so today the pro asked me to try to steepen the driver swing (higher hands at top). That really helped the swing speed, but I found that the angle of attack changed to about 1 degree down. I imagine that costs some distancw, so is there a good tip to maintain my 2-3 degrees up and still get the higher-hands swing speed advantage? Thanks for any advice!
  6. @dennyjones That's a very good and valid question, and I did have very good GIRs the rounds I putted badly. But it doesn't account for the bad putting. Only two of the six 3-putts could be explained by being far from the pin (or difficult pin position). And I did have some long putts the rounds I putted well (in spite of bad GIRs - my long game was really off those rounds).
  7. Hi, recently I've played two rounds on normal greens (as good as they get where I live) and two on slow greens (just topdressed and aereated). On the two rounds on "good" greens, I putted terribly. 35 putts and 3-putts each of the rounds. Both length and direction were off. On the "bad" greens, I had 29-30 putts and no 3-putts. Now, is this just me or a "law of nature"?
  8. Nothing better than to try it yourself! So I played 12 holes on a local shortish course with two balls: Callaway Supersoft and Callaway SR2 (the one I usually play). To be honest, I could not see a definite difference in distance. What I did see somewhat systematically was that Supersoft was straighter, especially from tee. The only advantage I could find with SR2 was that I got more backspin. I had a few wedges spinning back towards me, but none with Supersoft. This was of course not a scientifical experiment, and not that many shots. So take it for what it's worth...
  9. Hi! I've read a lot about why you shouldn't play a ball that requires a swing speed higher than you have. But what if I played a ball designed for slower swing speeds? I have a driver swing speed of 95 mph, and if I were to play for example Callaway Supersoft (designed for under 90 mph I believe), what would I lose? Distance? Accuracy? Where I live, I can buy a dozen Callaway Supersoft $10 less than Callaway SR2 (that I usually play). Not to mention Callaway Chrome Soft which is even more expensive. Thanks for input!
  10. I don't hit that long, but I carry 3w (15 deg), 5w (18 deg) and 7w (21 deg). All are PING G400 and I love them. 3w goes about 215, 5w 195 and 7w 180 yards (total). I used to have a 3h and 4i, but for me the woods are much easier to hit than irons or hybrids.
  11. Hi, I went to a demo day and tried out PING and Mizuno irons. I am a 10-11 handicapper playing PING i20, and I am looking for something more forgiving. The G410 were extremely easy to hit and straight, but then I tried MP-20 HMB and to my surprise they were as forgiving as G410. (And the feel was great in the HMB; the G410 felt good enough but no wow factor.) Now, my question is: could there be said anything general about hollowbacks (as the HMB) and forgiveness? Where do they "rank" in forgiveness, for example compared to clubs like i210 and G410? (Unfortunately I did not try PING i500 which is also a hollowback, and not as expensive as the HMB). Thanks for any input!
  12. Yep, that 's what I mean - behind the hands at address is the best compromise when you don't know what you're going to want to look at specifically. But I didn't know that the best position to see swing path is at A6. After that it's too late maybe? If we were talking Trackman or similar, will it be positioned behind the ball?
  13. This is very interesting, thanks! Just a thought: doesn't optimal camera position depend on what you are looking at? Any position will be a compromise (in the videos above I understand that behind the hands at address is the best compromise)? If I for example want to look at swing path at impact, wouldn't the best camera position be behind the ball? And if I am looking at where the club is "pointing" at the top of the backswing, the best position would be right behind the hands at the top of the backswing?
  14. Hi, I finally got the courage to upload swing videos (down the line and front on, see links below). My primary question is if my right elbow movement is good? I'm very conscious about dropping/reconnecting elbow here, it feels almost like I'm overdoing it (pulling the elbow down to my side). It looks like I'm inside-out, and the result in both cases were baby push-draws. I was actually very content with the shots. (Only an 8i to make it easy for me Secondarily, I see other stuff I should improve (right knee "falling in" and lifting the right foot for example). And I do not have the lag good players have, but that is difficult for me to improve... Thanks for input! Videos (from Dropbox, hope it works): Down the line Front on
  15. @boogielicious Thanks for the video of your swing. I think it looks great, and I am not as good as you. (Is your handicap index in the profile correct? The swing looks like a single handicapper to me ) I think I understand what you are saying about "out and around". It clearly looks like you have swing width and reconnection without getting inside-out. (Maybe a bit at A6, but not much at impact?) Great practice equipment and camera work by the way!
  16. @Grizvok Thanks for the video! I wasn't clear enough in my original post, I did not mean tuck it in at address or backswing, but in the downswing. So reconnecting when going down was what I was talking about. Now, having said that, the video did show a lot of "don'ts" that I was afraid of. For example decreasing the angle between upper and lower arm. Or driving the right elbow forward. So it was really a great answer to potential pitfalls when reconnecting (or tucking it in as I wrote).
  17. @boogielicious Interesting. I also used to be too much of an inside-out, but apparently my usual fault is the opposite now.. Could you try to explain "out and around"? "Out" is not getting the club behind you I guess, but "around"?
  18. Hi, I had some problems with my swing path, so I started focusing on my right elbow, tucking it in to my right side. It did have a positive effect and I hit some beautiful push-draws. But then I started thinking. Is there a risk of over-doing this? One thing obviously is the swing path, getting too much inside-out. But I can detect if I am doing that by looking at the divot (and initial ball direction). But what else could go wrong? I have had problems with getting too "around me" in the backswing. And I guess that's the same as bad swing width. Is that a risk? Maybe there is something like "you should tuck it in, but remember to do this-or-that"? Any opinions? I know I could just look at the resulting shot but sometimes over-correcting masks out other errors in the swing (that I cannot see easily).
  19. Ok, what does it mean for the putting stroke?
  20. Hi! Anyone knows what "flow neck" means in Odyssey putters? I read this, but it didn't say me much: "This design allows the putter head to swing in an arc more freely" Thanks!
  21. Hi! I just bought the Pelz Tutor for putting practice. Aside from what it's "meant to do", my big revelation was that I was not standing with my eyes over the ball. There are two lines on right and left side of the ball position (looking from behind). and I wasn't seeing the right one completely. I was standing too far from the ball, if one is supposed to stand with the eyes over the ball. Then, I started thinking. Do all good putters stand right over the ball? How about forum members? Would be interesting to get some opinions!
  22. This was pretty interesting: https://www.todaysgolfer.co.uk/features/equipment-features/2018/november/the-truth-about-strong-lofted-irons/ From Nov 2018 but still relevant I guess.
  23. @billchao You're right there. Do you know if it will cost more to buy the "non-standard" 6i-UW?
  24. @Vinsk Yep, then I wouldn't need the 7 wood, but I really love that club and I want to keep it in the bag! An option might be to but 6i-UW, but maybe that costs more than the standard 5i-PW? Again, all this if my original assumption that stronger lofts give more distance is correct...
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