PiKapp23

The main advantage of more wedges is simply that you can then have more 'full-swing' yardages covered instead of trying to hit a 3/4 9i or trying to hit your AW 110% of normal full-swing. I personally only carry a 47* PW, 51* GW and 56* SW and have not found I need another wedge, but I am also very comfortable with a 1/2 to 3/4 wedge shot (this takes a bit of practice). If you find you have trouble with the distance between your 9i and AW then you might want to consider a 10i/PW in the 45* range. Normally in wedges players like 4-6 degrees of loft between them (for most players that will equate to 8-15 yards depending on their swing speed and loft gap).

I also prefer something more classic than many of the modern designs. I currently have two pair of saddle shoes (one white/black the other white/brown), one pair a Callaway model from a couple years ago and the other Ecco's from last year. Of the newer shoes I know Footjoy still makes some shoes that are more traditional in looks and you could probably find a good deal online for a pair of Footjoy Classics since the model is no longer being made - they are about as classic as you're going to find. The only brands (at least major brands) that seem to have gone so futuristic across entire line are Adidas, Nike and Callaway to some degree. Most other brands still have some good old fashioned classic shoes.

I went through the testing process for new irons back in the winter and tried what seems like an infinite number of models before deciding on the irons I purchased. The AP2's are nice irons and have a little more forgivness than the Mizuno MP-57's, probably closer to the MP-52's, but they didn't feel as good to me as the Mizuno player irons (the MP series). The MX-200 is among the best of the 'Game Improvement' iron category and I would consider them to the on the 'players' side of that category. The AP2's and Mizuno MP irons will all be quite 'workable', but will not have a high level of forgivness (but still have some). If you feel you need more forgiveness then the MX-200 (or AP1's) might be a better fit - they will be less workable, though. When it comes right down to it, it's all about what you like the look, feel and price of and what you are going to feel the most comfortable with when you're over the ball. One thing to remember when you are looking at clubs is to not decide what you want until you try them and also consider other brands and models (such as Adams Idea Pro/Idea Pro Golf and other manufacturers). It's not unusual, if you go in with an open mind, to find you prefer something other than what you expected. There is a lot of good equipment out there and not everyone prefers the same thing.

'Firm' flex is typically slightly stiffer than a 'Regular' flex shaft from same manufacturer and less stiff than a than a 'Stiff' from them. However, because there is not standard within the industry for shaft flexes it's hard to tell what the flex really is. Your assumption that a 'Firm' in graphite probably translates close to 'Regular' in steel is probably at least somewhat accurate, but it's hard to tell. What one company calls 'Regular' another might call 'Stiff' or 'Firm' while still another might call that flex 'Senior' or 'Light'. Main thing is how they feel to you and how you hit the ball with the new clubs. About the only time you can truly use the flex rating to compare is when you are comparing shafts from same manufacturer AND the same model of shaft (sometimes even different models can feel different). And comparing steel to graphite is even harder because of the inherent differences in the materials and how they are used.

I went with an offer they had a few years ago with sending me 3 wedges free with no shipping cost. The wedges were a decent quality, however the pressure sales calls for the next 5+ years was so annoying I would never ever deal with them and recommend you do not do so either. For a while I was getting calls once a week trying to sell me new irons. When I bought new Cobra irons they chastised me about how I got screwed and paid way too much for inferior irons. I asked them to stop calling me several times, but that only put them on hold for 6 months at which time the calls started again.

When you say your swing speed is low it depends on just how low it is compared to the recommended ss for different flexes. If it's close then you might be better going with what 'feels' right to you. However, if you swing speed is low enough that even getting close to the recommended parameters for a senior flex then a R flex would probably make more sense. A shaft that is fit to your swing speed/tempo makes it easier to 'load' the shaft, which usually leads to more distance and often more consistent ball flight as well. Another option, if you really think you prefer the feel of the stiff flex is to consider a lighter shaft with same flex which will help increase you swing speed a bit but still feel similar to what you are used to. True Temper makes these in the Project X and Dynamic Gold HL lines (and maybe others). I also know Nippon makes really light steel shafts and I'm sure some of the other companies do as well. Still another option might be graphite shafts, which will also potentially help increase swing speed. Whatever you decide, more flexible or lighter shafts quite possibly will help you improve your tempo and have the potential to improve your game and result in more distance and consistency.

I first noticed them about a year or more ago when I was looking for new 'players' irons and was referred to them by a Golf Galaxy employee. I really liked the Idea Gold Pro irons and had I not bought Mizunos they were probably my second favorite (a total surprise to me). I also liked the Speedline driver, but didn't really like the shaft so I went with the Nike. I think they have come a long way and are starting to get looks from people that used to think they were an inferior brand and now I'm sure Watson's performance is going to be great for marketing.

...then why do I cry so much?

In the Callaway line the Big Bertha irons are the easiest to hit by far. The X series irons are also not that difficult (especially starting with the X-18 thru X-22 models). Big Bertha has long been among the easiest to hit irons on the market. Adams AxOS (x being the model from 2, 3, 4 or now 7) are also very easy to hit and come with hybrids which are almost a must for higher handicap golfers now. Cobra and Taylor Made also make irons that are easy to play now and really most manufacturers do. Best thing is to just try some and go with what you like the look and feel of best (as well as price).

I have always found that hybrids are usually 'labeled' with the same number as the iron of the same loft (or close), but typically they play about 1/2 to 1 club longer distance wise (i.e. 3 hybrid might play more like a 2 iron). However, they tend to be much high trajectory than even the iron of same loft due to lower CG and longer shaft (often with a softer tip as well). Of course, like most things in golf, there really is little standardization so this is not always true - different brands (and even models within a brand) are going to play differently My current hybrid setup includes a 17* (2H, but with steel shaft that replaces my 5W and 2 iron), 23* (4H that replaces my 3 iron) and 26* (5H that replaces my 4 iron). I had originally taken my 5 iron out of the bag when I added the 26* but found the gap too large between the 5H and 6 iron so I now carry a 5H and 5 iron. The best thing to do is go to the range and try to see how much gap you have between your 5 iron and 4H. If the gap is more than 10-12 yards or so you might want to fill that with either an additonal hybrid (5H) or put the 4 iron back in.

There are several sites where you can compare them on the web (sorry, I do not know any off the top of my head). A few things to look for, though: Initial cost - from Bushnell Neo ($149) to the Garmin Approach ($499). Availability of course files for the courses in your area, especially those you play the most. Cost for course GPS files - do you have to be a member of the website community to download and if so, how much is the membership and/or individual downloads? Additionally, are there any restrictions. Ease of use and easy to understand information (such as easy to understand what the distances provided really are to). Convenience of getting course files. How are course files mapped? Most are mapped from satellite images and can sometimes be pretty inaccurate. I know SkyCaddie claims all of their courses were manually mapped on-course (and thus should be more accurate). Size, weight, options available. Personally I own the iGolf Neo (now known as Bushnell Neo since they bought the company). I really like it because of size, ease of use and after purchase costs (membership/course downloads is only $39/year), availability of local courses (I've only come across one out of about 70 that is not already mapped) as well as the initial cost. The issues I have relate to the courses sometimes not being mapped well (sometimes wrong holes mapped or wrong spots mapped as greens, etc.) The other issue is just a shortcoming of the Neo in that the distances to front-middle-back of green are static, meaning that no matter where I am in relation to those points they do not change whereas several other companies make these points 'static' so that it's a straight line from where you are at to the front-middle-back of green. I also wish they had more custom points mapped, but I can't complain about that considering my total ownership cost.

I don't think you need to worry about your swing speed with the Nike One Platnium since it's what Tiger was using the last couple years (before switching to the new Nike One Tour ball this year). Tiger and Nike admit it is not the longest ball, though. It's designed for more spin, but doesn't have the distance of most other premium ball (Tiger always said the spin and control were so good he was willing to sacrifice a few yards). I personally liked the feel of the Platnium and had good results with it, but stopped playing it simply because of the price. I might have to pick some up now that the price has dropped to almost reasonable.

I do not consider myself to be a great golfer by any means, but I can scrape the ball around OK. However, I've got friends who I play with on rare occasions who have never seen me play well and think I'm a total hack. Funny thing is, when playing with them it's pretty much true. But then I also have a couple friends that I play with who have never seen me shoot bad and think I'm a great golfer. I don't know if I am trying to hard with some people and not with others or what, but it can be down right amusing. Earlier this year I shot a career best 72 then played two days later with a couple of my friends who think I'm a hack and shot a 95.

Honestly it doesn't bother me at all. I do not play for anything so I do not care what rules they play by as long as they have fun. I play by the rules and will give advice on the rules if they want it, but otherwise just enjoy playing the game and not worry about what they are doing. I could do without the endless talk about their kids and pets, etc., but I'm sure they would get tired of me talking all golf, too, so I guess it's even.

Since the shaft has as much or more to do with the height of your drives you should not just assume you need less loft. With my old driver (a TM R540XD) I too felt I was hitting the ball too high. Once I got to looking at new drivers this year I quickly realized that less loft wasn't the answer, but rather a shaft with a higher kickpoint (firmer tip). The loft of both is 9.5 and the shafts in my new and old shaft are both 'Stiff', but my current driver has a firmer tip and my ball flight is significantly lower than it was a couple months ago with the other driver. So often we just assume that 'Stiff' flex is an industry standard, but one companies 'stiff' could well be another companies 'Regular' flex or 'Extra Stiff' flex. Furthermore, the same shaft in 2 different drivers with same loft may react quite a bit differently as well. If you are looking to keep the same model the cheapest and best alternative would probably be to get it reshafted with a shaft with a higher kickpoint. One thing to remember (as I have learned throughout my new driver testing) is that a high ball flight with driver is not necessarily a bad thing. A straight, high ball flight will end up in the fairway and usually not run out into trouble. A lower ball flight can often cause more spin on the ball which in turrn leads to more turn on the ball (soft draws and fades can become hooks and slices).

As has already been stated a putter is a personal thing. The most important thing is to find the model you like the look and feel of best as well as one that fits your putting 'style'. I play a straight-to-straight putting style and because of this I have always found a center-shafted putter (face balanced) works best for me. For those who have more of an arcing putter a heel shafted putter (face balanced or toe weighted) often works best, but that's not always true to everyone. I prefer the feel of a blade, but have realized over the years that a mallet with better alignment aid really helps me get the ball started on the right line easier. Blade, mid-mallet or mallet is another personal choice based on the feel and looks you like/want. As for length, this completely depends on your putter stance more than your height. Phil Mickelson is 6' 3" and used to play a 31" putter (I think that's the right length). I believe it's Robert Garrigus who plays a 28-29" putter and he's pretty tall as well. Personally, I would purchase a putter that's more likely to be too long than one too short. Worse case scenario you simply choke up a little or have it cut to proper length later. I have made the mistake of buying too short before and adjusting to it with little success. As for the 2 putters you mention, the Sabertooth is definitely easy to alight and has a good feel to it. I personally do not really like the look of it, plus it's not center-shafted so I have never even considered it. The White Hot 1 Tour is a good putter for someone who likes a traditional blade (especially if you can't afford a Bettinardi or Scotty). I like the aligngment aid on the top better than many blades because it's closer to the ball, but still I prefer something that gives me more confidence on my alignment (hence that I play the 2-ball).

If a hybrid is the way you are looking then you should consider a 19-20* hybrid, which is what a 3H ususally is. If you look around on eBay and sites such as RockBottomGolf.com you can probably find a good one for well under $100. Such brands as Adams, Taylor Made, Nike (among others) could all be had for $50-75 new if you look around (and of course cheaper if you buy used). If a wood is what you are considering, then consider a 4 or 5 wood (around 17 & 19* of loft). These will help fill the gap as well, but will give you a little more distance than a 3H, but for some people are a little more difficult to consistently hit as well. Like hybrids you can find a lot of them online for good prices (you might even be able to guy a wood and a hybrid for your $100 - a 3H and 4W would provide very good gap coverage). The best thing to do before you buy anything is try them. Many pro shops at courses will allow you to demo clubs or you can go to any number of retail sporting good or golf shops to test out clubs.

While I know it's still the 'indian', I am a huge believer that the correct 'arrow' for that indian is also very important. If we all could have the equipment trucks at our disposal like they do on tour I think everyone would like better - for most players probably just a stroke or 2, but I am a big believer is a professional fitting. Of course it also comes down to players being honest with themselves and playing equipment that is a fit for them instead of Tiger Woods.

I've found lightweight, breathable shoes with UnderArmor/Dri-Fit type socks on make a really big difference to how hot I feel. Another simple thing that really helps me is just taking my hat off whenever possible (even if just waiting on tee or waiting for others to hit). It's amazing how much cooler my head and body feel if I do that (especially when riding in cart with a little air blowing).

I would probably go with a 54* with 10* of bounce or so. I currently carry a 51 and 56, but if I was to only carry one I would split the difference and go 54*. I used to carry 50, 54, 58, but switched to 51, 56 when I got my new set. A 54 with 10-12* of bounce still is a good club our of greenside bunkers, but also works well for approaches inside 100 yards and for those non-full swing shots as well. A 52 would be difficult out of sand and a 56 and 60 would probably leave too much of a distance gap and lead to you trying to swing too hard on short approaches.

Yes, the Boxer hybrids (A3 and A4) are quite a bit more forgiving, but definitely less 'workable' and with a higher trajectory, which usually leads to more distance. They feel a little softer as well on impact.

I seem to remember this question coming up at my Dad's club several years back and one of the local lawyers that was a member said that because there is an "accepted assumed risk" on the course that a player can not be successfully sued if they injury occured within normal play (of course anyone can sue anyone at anytime for anything). However, if the injury happened due to something outside normal play (throwing club, reckless cart usage, etc.) that would fall outside the parameters that is protected. I know my Dad's club had insurance for the normal play stuff, but I'm not sure exactly what all is covered. With the legal system being what it is in the US I'm sure some crafty lawyer looking for a quick payday could find a loophole that would line his pockets (and possibly give the victim enough money to buy a box of generic bandages as well, but not much more).

It's definitely more of a 'players' hybrid than most. It's not as forgiving as the majority of the hybrids on market, more in line with the Titleist hybrids than the more popular models. That is not to say it's not forgiving at all, though. It's still easier to hit than a long iron (by far). It has a lower ball fliight than other hybrids with same loft and shaft flex and is more workable (might be among the most workable of all hybrids). It has a very solid feel. As 'Range King' said it's a good hybrid for a better swing (and thus is among the most popular hybrids on the professional tours). When you put a good swing on it it will produce really good results.

My most significantly worse back-to-back scores are probably earlier this year when I shot an 81 on a moderately difficult course then the next day shot a 59 for 9 holes on an easier course. I am usually a pretty consistent player, but I went through a steak earlier in the year that included scores between 73 and 95 (including a 95 then 80 on back-to-back rounds on the same course from same tees).

I own both (Scotty Futura Phantom center-shafted and Odyssey 2-Ball XG CS), but really prefer the Odyssey. I like the way the Scotty feels, but just never felt as comfortable with alignment with it. I'm definitely more consistent with the 2-Ball.