bwinger79

I have had my RAC Black TP's in my bag for almost 2 years now, and I dont have any rust at all on them..... just a spot where the constant contact wore the finish off. I dont think they are supposed to rust.

Just to add to Iacas's post, Hot Stix Golf doesn't use "cheap launch monitors" either. I am very fortunate to live right around the corner from one of their facilities. There is no club fitting company in the world that understands golf swing dynamics better than Hot Stix in my opinion, but as Iacas alluded to, I am sure the club manufacturers like Titleist use top of the line stuff. Its a lot more than loft, backspin and swing speed. Technology is a beautiful thing......I know its helped my game.

An overrun is when a company, say Mutual of Omaha, asks Titleist to print their logo on 1000 balls. They either make more, or the company doesnt buy them all, then they are left over with extra balls that have that companies name on them. They sell them cheap, because they are still brand new balls, but since they have another companies name on them they cant just package them up like normal and sell them. You can also find X-outs. X-outs are usually top quality balls that have printing blemishes on them. They perform the same as a normal ball, just have some ink smudges or misprints. The link below shows you a box of Titleist X-outs. They are high quality balls, but usually about half the full retail price. http://www.austads.com/austads/asset...OALKABFEBN.jpg

I wasnt basing my opinion on what I see on my golf shots. My opinions are based on the technical data collected from about 6 hours a week on a launch monitor, for the past year or so. But I digress.... all I really care about is the end result. I'll leave the physics to the scientists and let them make cool GUI tools that lets me understand it.

Well.... I think they number them just for identification purposes. Once you start playing and get out on the course you will see. It alot easier to tell your playing partners that you are playing a Pinnacle 1 than having to say I am playing a Pinnacle Exception marked with so and so........you know what I mean? It also makes it easier for other groups to identify your ball if they were to come across it thinking it was theirs. I guess the easiest way is to get a sharpie if you really want to make your ball individual. I mark every ball I play with a sharpie.

Golf balls have numbers on them. In your typical dozen you will get 4 sleeves, each containing 3 balls. One sleeve will be all #1, next sleeve all #2 and so on. Just look on the ball...... you will see a number under whatever manufacturer markings there are on the ball. Follow the link below and you will see what I am talking about. http://www.geocities.com/golfballldy/NOneBlk.jpg

My girl and I play together all the time. She loves the Pinnacle Exceptions. I always mark my balls, but thats just me. If you guys are playing the same ball without markings, just use a different number ball, or grab a sharpie and go to town. I am sure the woman would enjoy drawing stuff on her ball anyway, or at least they usually seem to like to mark them up.

You can find some good recycled balls, but I would never buy them. You never know if they were sitting in the water. Remember...... seamless doesnt mean waterproof. Every ball on the market will take on water, and it really shows up even in the cheapest balls performance. %40 distance loss isnt worth saving $5 IMO.

I practice on a launch monitor 3 times a week. I am very familiar with whats going on at impact. Dont need to be spiderman if you have science and slow motion cameras. Unless we have accredited physicists on this forum, which I am sure we dont, there are far too many variables happening at impact for anyone here to wrap their mind around. If you guys feel like continuing an argument that is speculation at best on all sides, feel free. Practical application seems to be what really matters in the end though.

If you are new to this game, you most likely wont be able to tell the difference between a cheap and expensive ball. Feel and spin control are kind of a more advanced part of the game, which you will pick up in time. If you tend to spray your shots and lose balls, I would start with the cheapest ball you can find. Once you figure out your golf swing, then you just have to try different balls and see what suits your game. Its really personal preference. I would classify balls as follows: Cheap----anything less the $15/dozen Mid-Grade----anything between $15-$35/dozen Top Quality----$35/dozen and up. When it comes to golf balls, you get what you pay for, but like I said, most beginners wont see much difference it their game playing a ProV1 over a Top Flite. Go cheap and spend your saved money on lessons.

There is no better "cheap" ball on the market than the Pinnacle Exception IMO. Great distance and great feel for $20. You really should be practicing with the same balls you plan to play with though. Doesnt make much sense to get used to one ball to go play with another. Noodles are cheap, but have alot of spin, regardless of which type you buy, so if you have issues keeping the ball in the fairway off the tee, which most beginners do, this ball is only going to make it worse. If you are a straight hitter, noodles would be alright.

Hey.... you guys can get into all the physics you want to, but I can go out on the course and show you that (other than extreme cases) initial path is determined by swing path and curve is determined by face angle. Of course there are exceptions to the rule. I can open up a 6 iron and still hit a high draw. There are far too many factors to take in to account to make this an apples and oranges conversation. Theory is great, but unless you can put it to practical use on the course, it really doesnt matter.

I have nothing against the ProV, but I will play Nike One Blacks until they stop selling them. I get way better numbers on a monitor with them, and seem to hit better shots. They just really fit my swing. The only issue I have ever had with ProV1 and ProV1x is that after a full wedge shot the ball is useless. I can peel the cover right off Titleist balls, and at $45/dozen that can get a little expensive. I find the Nike One to have a much more durable cover. I also get far too much spin with the ProV1 and ProV1x. To each their own I guess.

Well.... like I said there is alot more than swing speed to factor into getting fit properly for frequency matched shafts, like tempo, trajectory and personal feel, but it sounds like from what you are describing that a 6.0 is a little stiff. A 6.0 is a rough equivalent to a manufacturers X-stiff.

I hit on a monitor all the time. Nothing I have seen supports your claim. But if you make a swing with a path square to your target, and close the face of the club, of course the ball is going to go to the left. You might be talking in extremes, I am not sure, but like I said, I havent seen any launch data that would support your claim.

The physics do change as soon as you add loft to the picture. Please know what you are talking about before starting an argument. Sorry to tell ya buddy, but your diagram is incorrect.

We are talking directional(left, right). If you want to talk about descending blows and clubs loft, you should probably start another thread. Possibly the dumbest thing I have ever heard though.

I do every time I step on the course to play a round.

Initial direction a ball is going to travel is decided by the swing path. Which way the ball is going to curve is decided by face angle relative to swing path. Iacas is right, the diagram is incorrect, no matter what way you look at it.

There is alot more you need to look at other than swing speed when getting fit for a frequency matched set, but from the sounds of it the 6.0 are probably a bit too stiff for you. You would probably need something in the 5.2-5.7 range, which would compare to most factory "stiff flex" shafts. Unfortunately, as far as I know, there is no way to bring a 6.0 down to a softer flex. I guess you could always just hit the gym and work your swing speed up a little. If you need a little more height with the long irons, try a flighted set. I play the Project X Flighted and love them.

Sounds like you might be coming over the top and hitting some hosel rockets. Back up and inch or two from the ball, and slow your swing down until you start making solid contact again. Once you do, you can work on speeding your swing back up to normal speed, making sure that you are still getting the contact you desire. Focus on keeping your left arm and chest connected(for a righty) so you can get rid of the casting motion at the top of your backswing.

At the end of the day, a bad shot is a bad shot. Doesnt matter if it is off of a $600 club or a $30 club. Nothing makes me happier than taking money from someone that spent $3000 on clubs when what they really needed to do was spend $300 in lessons. If you have the money, buy it, but dont think it is going to magically turn your 40yd slice into a nice 7yd draw.

Seems to be alot of liars on this forum. Never seen so many 30 caps in my life hit it 280. Classic male over-estimation. Most male am's dont even carry the ball 220. Its like a never ending big fish story.

First, make sure it is not your swing path as stipulated in many previous posts. Secondly, make sure you are allowing your hands to release the club through impact. A good drill for this is to make sure your left forearm(for rightys) is facing the ground after impact. This will kind of force you to turn your hands over. Loosen your grip as much as possible, because a tight grip inhibits hand action through the ball.

Most woods are going to come with graphite shafts. Some of the best shafts in the world are graphite. You want them in your woods, but for a beginner, I would stick to steel shafts in your irons.