drck1000

Played in this format once a LONG time ago and I took 3 wood, 5 iron and PW. If I had to do it over, I might take my 9 instead of PW. I used the 5 iron for putting and it wasn't too bad. Just need to get used to the weight. Lag putting wasn't easy with it.

Yes, the MX-25 was easier to hit than the MP-57. I couldn't really evaluate any distance loss that well as I was at the range at night and their balls are beat up and inconsistant distance wise. I had a demo 6 iron for both with the MX-25 with the Dynalite S300 and the MP-57 with the DGS300. Not an apples to apples comparison, but I hit the MX-25 much higher than the MP-57. Not sure how much of that can be attributed to the shaft and how much to the iron. I hit my irons, even long irons, quite high and and I am looking for a flatter ball flight so that's why I am leaning to the MP-57 over the MX-25. That and the aesthetics. When I first picked up the MX-25 in the shop, I didn't like the top line nor the look of the sole.

I also have an appointment to get fitted for MP-57's this weekend at a local golf course. So far, I have demo'ed the MP-60, MP-57, MX-25, X Forged, J33 CB and the 695CB. I didn't like the X Forged and it pretty much came down to the MP-57 and 695CB. I currently have MX-20's and was leaning toward staying in the Mizuno line. I don't like the thicker look of the MX-25, so the MP-57 was the next likely model. I spent quite a while with the demo irons of the MP-60 and MP-57 at the range and I liked the MP-57 more, but probably because I knew that it was the newer model. I also liked the feel the the M21 grip on the MP-57. It felt better than the Tour Velvet on the MP-60. Ball flight between the two was about the same for me and both had the DGS300. But I am interested in trying out the Rifle shafts during the fitting session. A friend is giving me his old set of MP-32 to try out and practice with just for fun.

I recently purchased an FT-i on eBay. It was at going rate and from a seller who had positive feedback from selling the same club. I had the information from the Callaway website on how to spot a counterfeit club. At first glance, it looked legit. It even had the serial number on the hosel. The first sign of a fake that I noticed was that the "NEUTRAL" below the dots looked different, much wider than other models that I've seen. Then I did the side-by-side test with my friend's FT-i and noticed numerous differences. The Speeder shaft label was facing up (toward you at address) and Speeder symbols were all white as opposed to white and black. Other small differences and quality of things like the cleanness of the engraving and stitching on the head cover. When I hit it, it performed ok but sounded REALLY loud. I contacted the seller and of course he claimed ignorance and that he uses the exact same driver that he purchased from a golf store going out of business, etc. Her refunded me fully including the shipping. Ended up getting one from a local shop. I emailed Callaway about this and their legal department emailed be back in a matter of minutes. I informed them about the counterfeit and they contacted the eBay seller. Now that I know what to look for, I can spot counterfeits on eBay from pics. Sorry to hear about your bad experience. In my case, it ended up ok with a refund. But am much more wary now.

I've recently gone from a Cameron Newport 2 Pro Plat Mil-Spec 33" to a Yes Tiffany 34" (face balanced). According to the Yes rep that I spoke to at a demo day and on their product brocures, the Tiffany model is intended for those with a straight back and through stroke, which I at (or at least trying to). The model I have has the hosel way on the heel, but there is a center shafted model. On the Yes website, it says that the center shafted if for the longer belly and pendulum putters, but I've seen them in the standard 34-35" lengths. The Yes Tiffany feels quite a bit lighter than the Cameron and took some getting used to at first. I had the Cameron for over 5 years and up until about a month ago, I loved it. But I noticed that I was pulling and pushing a lot of putts. Then I noticed that the putter was wavering to both the inside and out on the backstroke. Probably all in my head, but I think the flatness of the Tiffany putter helped me with that and not quite sure how the fact that it's face balanced factors in. I didn't go looking for a face balanced putter in this case, I just liked the looks. But if you are worried about center shafted vs shafted in the heel, no problems here.

Titlelist Vokey Oil Can in 52* and 56*. How long before the grooves on the wedges are worn down enough to warrant replacement? The grooves on my wedges seem fine. However, I do remember when I first got them, they were scuffing balls like crazy. Now they don't. Maybe a difference in the balls that I was playing then (Hogan Apex, Maxfli A10s) and the balls that I play now (B330, Nike One Black, e5, e6). I play about every other week and go to the range about twice a week. I've had these wedges for about 5 years now.

I hit the ball pretty high as it is, so I was more interested in the e6 at first. I do hook and slice the ball at times, but haven't really noticed any difference in that aspect between the B330. Still in the process of trying both the e5 and e6 to give them time. But FWIW, I seem to hit the e6 just as high as the e5. Have played with the e6 more so far so will need more time to evaluate the e5. Am interested to see if there is any noticable difference around the greens. Good luck with the e5 and I will be sure to post back regarding the e5 and e6.

Hey all. I am looking to get a new set of irons in a few months (with the tax return). I am currently playing with Mizuno MX-20 with Dynamic Gold Lite W/Sensicore S300. I hit them well and really like them, but have the "new equipment bug". Almost every club in my bag had been changed in the last 2 months. Only the irons and wedges remain from pre-2007. Anyways, I am looking for a set of forged cavity back irons and demo'ed an MX-25 with the Dynalite Gold Superlite S300. The MX-25 felt dull compared to my MX-20 even with solid contact (or at least what I thought was solid contact). I was wondering if the difference in shafts might explain that. For my next set of irons, I was thinking about doing with the Dynamic Gold w/Sensicore or the Rifle Project X Flighted. I hit my irons pretty high as it is, so don't need any help there. Any thoughts? I also demo'ed the MP-60 with Dynamic Gold S300. That felt pretty good and it lets you know when you didn't make contact with the sweet spot. Think I still need the forgiveness of the MX series for now, but it's still an option for the MP-60 and the newer MP-57. Am also wanting to try out the 755CB and the Bridgestone forged irons. Tired the X-Forged about a month ago and it was ok, but think Mizuno is top on the list. It's just that the MX-25 didn't feel quite right. Thanks in advance for any help/advice.

I mostly wear Nike Dri-Fit shirts. Most of them are have that footbal jersey type mesh look. Have one TW Dri-Fit as well when we play on the nicer courses here. Also have a few adidas ClimaCool shirts. It's pretty warm all year around here in Hawaii, so need to stay cool. As for shorts, wear non-golf brand shorts with cargo side pockets (for the tees).

I would say on average 2-3 depending on the course. Wide open resort type course I might go without a lost ball or maybe 1 or 2 on a mis/bad-judgement type shot. Or I might lose more if tree lined with a lot of OB. On the courses that I've been playing most often, I usually go through about an average of 3-4 balls with half of those tossed after scuffing them up.

You should be able to order a single iron through any Titleist dealer. I've replaced single Mizuno irons through Discountdans. As noted above, just have them the serial number on the hosel and received the replacement club in about a week. I think it was about $90 per iron for my MX-20's.

Callaway FT-i 9.5 with Speeder 686 Stiff. Also still have a Burner TP 9.5 with the GD 65 gram shaft "on the bench".

Callaway FT-i 9.5 Speeder 686 Callaway X-Tour 15 Speeder 686 (maybe soon to be replaced) Nickent 3DX Ironwood 2I & 3I UST Proforce V2 Mizuno MX-20 4-PW Dynamic Gold Lite w/Sensicore S300 Titleist Vokey Oil Can 52 & 56 Yes Tiffany Putter 34" Testing out 3 woods right now. Am trying out the Burner TP 14.5 and the Titleist 906F2 UST Proforce V2 75g. Will be in the market for irons early next year. Have a demo 6 iron for MX-25 and MP-60. Also in the "to try list" are the Titleist 755 and MP-57.

Have been switching between the B330 and Nike One Black (new and old version). But recently picked up a box each of the e5 and e6 to try them out. Was going through a stretch where I wasn't playing well and just thought I'd try something new. I haven't noticed that much difference yet between the e5 and e6, but noticed that I have to play a little more roll with pitch and chip shots. Haven't noticed much difference with the putter but both the e5 and e6 seem more durable than the B330 and One Black (as expected). Have 3 sleeves left of each and will see after they are all used up what I'll go with.

Had been using a Cameron Mil-Spec Platinum Newport 2 33" for about 5 years but recently switched the the Yes Tiffany. Liking the Yes Tiffany so far. It's a lighter putter than the Cameron and am still getting used to it.

First post. I demo'ed the FT-5 with a variety of shafts and hit them all pretty high. At the end of the demo session, the FT-5 with the Aldila NV 75 shaft was the best fit for the FT-5. Followed that with the FT-i, but they only had the stock shafts. Ended up going with the FT-i 9.5 with the stock Speeder 686 shaft after going on the launch monitor, comparing the FT-i, FT-5 and the Burner TP in various lofts. The FT-i gave the best numbers and went with that after trying the FT-i against the Burner TP on the range. Now that I've had the FT-i in the bag for a few rounds, I am hitting the ball farther than with my previous R7 425 and straighter. It did take some getting used to, but I guess after the "learning curve" I'm loving it.