andre112

ha ha cool you should try some nickent hybrids see if you like them

Oh.... that's how you do it!! Thanks Yes, indeed. If you can't get a proper fitting, at least you know how to narrow down your selections.

Not sure if my youtube tag is working Here is the link: http://www.twgolftech.com/videos_twgt.php#video4

the guy probably cut it short without adding any head weight so you couldn't feel the head during your swing

scratch looking to get some myself

they have presets for each club say PW is 64 lie with 48 loft if you club is 1 flat and 2 strong, then it is 63 lie with 46 loft i think that's how it works from what i've read up

http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/index....owtopic=217274

Yeah it's fine. In fact that's how bicycle grips are installed. I'd still put a small piece of tape at the butt to prevent moisture from entering. The grip size will be slightly smaller than standard since you don't have any tapes under it. That's what I do when people want a smaller than standard grip. To get even smaller just stretch the grip by 3/4" longer.

well fitted club will guide you to a better swing!

driver loft has the most effect on launch angle and spin shaft's effect is directly related to the load late release and aggressive tempo will load a shaft the most hence, more effect from shaft a golfer who casts in his/her downswing will not load the shaft enough to see big difference amoung shafts

for me, carrying is all about having the good straps and being very light weight sun mountain 3.5 weights only 3.5 lbs with very wide and padded shoulder strap leg is very sturdy the leg mechanism is also great (the legs don't spread out farther and farther with use) i really like it downside is the divider not being as great as ogio or mizuno titleist x86 is another good choice they are made by sun mountain, too

mitchell will run you $1500 to $2000 heard a lot of great reviews from clubmakers for true blue MR3 less than $1000

FYI you only need masking tape for air gripping. no need for double sided tape grips like GP NDMC have very thin wall, especially the lower part you can not install them with air. they balloon easily. better stick with solvent and double sided tape

golfworks, golfsmith, sponors from different forums..etc I do you don't need the tool but you must have a protector tube for blow off grips (for safety reason). you can make a tube from cutting down a club divider plastic tube sold for $1 in most stores. 0.580 is 0.020 thicker overall than 0.600 after installed on the same butt-size shaft 0.600 installed on 0.600 shaft is so called standard size no idea what's on VR blades

i play winn avs jumbo i tried the yes big grip in store seems a bit too light you are better off swapping super stroke grip onto the yes putter.

i have mx23 with kbs tour r flex basically, it's px ball flight with soft feel at impact i love them much easier to load than px

I would say no to cast from stainless steel but cast from 8620 carbon steel like vokeys i'd say yes.

if anyone seeks the PX ball flight with DG feel, KBS Tour is the shaft.

I don't think PX comes in 4.5 PX gives a harsh feedback on miss hit compare to DG

what you heard are all true they were just talking about different part of the ball flight PX has higher initial launch but less spin so the ball will go up fast but stay flat in the air DG has lower launch but more spin so the ball will rise up in the mid-flight one thing to watch out for switching from DG to PX is picking the right flex or the PX is going to feel very harsh also PX is stiffer than standard rifle PX5.5 is considered closer in flex to DG S300

i have the nickent driver the face is 2 to 3 degree closed, FYI if you are fighting a fade/slice, it can help it's more forgiving because of its MOI. (less face twisting when hit off center) if you put a good swing on it, you still can produce some long drives. the important thing is to get fitted for a driver that suits your swing you'll benefit a lot more than just buying drivers and drivers that don't work quite well

well i just bought a set 7.5/10 for $250. i was busy shafting them up with KBS Tours. will be done tomorrow. can't tell u how they play yet. but i think it's going to be an awesome combo with soft feel and enough forgiveness.

Thanks! Back to topic. I think a protractor will do the same job as SC's ball mark.

I still used mine but not as much. When I feel my stroke is off, I use it. My stroke certainly improved a lot, but it's the reading and the speed that keep me from making more putts.

Cost of club will vary depending on what you buy. A fitting session will cost around $60 to $100 per hour depending on the clubfitter. You will learn a lot about clubs and also your swing from a good clubfitter. You can ask people on the forum to recommand one in your area. A thourough fitting session should include: Length - trying different lengths of clubs and find one you are confortable and efficient with. Lie - hitting ball off a lie board to deteremine the proper lie angle for you club. Flex - measure swing speed and also see how you swing (tempo) Shaft - depending on whether you hit ball high or low and also weight of shaft that suites you whether it's light or heavy. Swing weight - determine which swing sweight you have more chance of hitting club face center. Grip - measure your hand to determine a proper grip size Club head - this will be easy since you want the most forgiving design. Your purchase options would be: 1. Get fit by the clubfitter and clubs from him/her. They usually only carry component brands (like Miura, Wishon, KZG) which you might not heard of, but some of them are also high quality. (You can order only 6-PW or whatever combination you like) 2. Get fit by the clubfitter but order clubs to your spec at retail stores. Name brands are available. (You can also order only 6 to PW) 3. Buy a set of clubs you like any where and take them to the clubfitter for adjustment. (You have to buy 3-PW or 4-SW and wasting money of 3i to 5i) Oh retail stores do have some people "trained" to do fittings but I wouldn't recommand it.