wigolffan

ment to say can play 18 in 3 hours

if you dont want to be pushed by the group behind you, simple, play faster!!! Im 36 with 2 kids and a wife, I love the game, and my friends and I can play 28 in 3 hours or less when the course is not full, why should a fast round be 4.5 hours? with the norm being closer to 5.5hours I can justify 3 hours away from the kids on a weekend, but 5 or 6 hours will drive me out of the game soon too!

a few things you should know. Lie angle is not the same from one manufacturer to the next, there is no industry standard (but they are pretty close) So dont get fit for one set of irons and then assume that you will be the same in the next set. Also be aware that most clubs can be bent to fit your lie angle so buing a used set can still be fit to you. Last thing to consider is that if your gonna be taking more lessons your swing is gonna change, so having the lie angle changed at this point would be a bit of a waste of time and money.

Maybe I missed it but I am shocked that no one listed Wisconsin! Without being a member of a club you can play the kohler complex, Home of the PGA Championship and the 2020 ryder cup, Aaron Hills-in the running for the 2017 US open, Brown Deer, Which up until this year hosted a PGA event that fell victom to economy. The courses at Lawsonia in green lake, the links is listed at 57 on golf weeks top 100 pre 1960 but if you take out the private clubs it moves up to I think 6th. The Bull designed by Jack and an incredible course, a whole host of great courses in Lake Geneva that are open to public play. All of this within an hour to an hour and a half from milwaukee. I am of course bias but as far as amazing and fairly cheap golf I think its hard to beat Wisconsin. My other Fav is N.C. The downside to Wisconsin is that the weather only allows for only about 4 or 5 months of perfect conditions to play

Other than the woods all my clubs are from golf works, or golfsmith. I find the quality to be as good as the OEM and the price cant be beat.

Ok I hate to say this as a guy who builds clubs as a side job, but if you where willing to play a club that did not say a big name on it you could probly get both wedges right now, golfworks.com sells some very nice wedge heads I like the M series forged heads are around 25 bucks, add a true temper dynamic gold s300 (most big companies wedges come with some sort of dynamic gold shaft) a 3 dollar lamkin pro crossline grip and your looking at 43 bucks for parts and they will assemble it for 10 bucks so get a 52 and a 60 for a shade over 100 bucks.

do it yourself!!! I am a club builder and if all you want is the clubs cut and gripped its so simmple. Cut the old grips off with a razorblade, cut the shafts to what you want with a hack saw. put grip tapew on (4 bucks or so a role at golfworks.com) and put on new grips by applying solvent to the tape and sliding the grips on.

omg sorry the sand wedge is only 53 degrees that is pretty much a gap wedge right there use it as yoru gap and get a 58 degree lob insted, that would be my advice

call or go to your local pro shop and find the loft of the P and S wedge and go from there. odds are the P is around 45 or 46 degrees and the sand wedge will be around 56 degrees so a 54 degree gap wedge would be to close to your sand wedge. Look at a 52 or even a 50 degree gap if this is the case.

if you can find the precept u tri tour at walmart or target for around 20 bucks a doz and they are the same ball ass the bridgstone b330

I have the SG3 and love it. Saves prob 2 or 3 strokes per side. The best feature is knowing the distance to not just the middle but the front and the back of the green. I often check it against the markers on the course and it is always close, however the yard or two diffrence could be explained by diffrences in the person who decided what constitutes the middle of the green. (ie the person who marked it). Knowing how far you hit your drive is not that big a deal but sure is fun. Yardages to hazards and doglegs on new courses is invaluable, cant imagine playing without it. The fact that the Intelligreen turns the green to give you yardages from your angle is also a helpfull feature. I looked at the golflogix but decided to get the sky caddie for 2 main reasons 1. Mapped by a person not off a photo 2. Intelligreen feature. At the time you could not mark shot distance with the golflogix but I heard that was going to change so that would be one more reason I would not choose the golflogix.

you alsomay want to recheck you rswing speed cus if you are driving 275 your speed is going to be higher then 100. My avg swing speed on driver is 117 (my buddy has a launch mon cus he is a custom club fitter, so we play around on it a lot.) and acording to my skycaddie my avg drive is 285. So if you knockin 275 it has to be higher than 100

well, just my 2 cents but if you want to lower your ball flight look for a stiff tip high kick shaft and you will se dramatic diffrence, my old R5 came with a soft tip mid kick stiff 10.5 degree and it could have knocked a U2 spy plane out of the sky. Switched to an Aldila NV 65 wich has a stiffer tip and higher kick and bingo just were I wanted it.

your assumption that loft is decided by angle in relation to the sole is incorect. Loft is determined by the angle when the club is placed in the playing position. And this can be changed by bending the hossel, however it also changes the bounce of the club the ratio of one to one so if you have a 5 iron with 3 degrees of bounce and you bend it 2 degrees strong the bounce is now 1 degree. The club maker you took it was right not to try and change the angle of a wood (they very very often break but tour vans will do it for pros and they have a limitless amount of heads to work with) However if he said changing the loft of a club is a myth he is a poor club maker and I would look elsewere in the future.

I will answer you with a kind of. To bend a driver hossel is a dangerous thing. more then likly you will not find any proshop willing to do it (odds are the club will be ruined and they dont want responsibility) However there are now ferruls available for various clubs that have a little shim on it that will change the loft or the lie angle depending on what you want it to do. golfworks.com I know has them. Also you know that the tolerence for most club companies is 1degree, so your 9.5 may be an 8.5 or a 10.5.

supermario or what ever is dead right. It is all about feel. The mas shaft is a piece of you know what. So of course you noticed a difrence when you went to a better quality shaft. I do a lot of club building and it all falls to personal preferance. The less torque the stiffer it FEELS. I saw an interview with the President of Aldila who said some of their tour pros are playing with torque as high a 5. Do you realy think a tour pro would sacrifice distance or control?

for the most part they are the same wedge. The difrence being the grooves, the TP will have the Y cutter groves wich impart a lot more spin. That being said I do belive that the next generation of grove for the TP is out or comming out soon the z grove. If so look to pick up a new TP with Y cutters on ebay for 70 or 8- bucks. I dont buy used wedges cus I want the groves to be fresh, and you cant tell how much life is left in a used wedges groves.

Ya know what I think C is right I did not notice your hadi of 36 keep the g10s. get your handi down to around 20 or so and then mabe make a switch. Dont make this hard game any harder then it is when your starting out or you may just get frustrated and end up quiting the game.

If I rember right the MPF on the ping G10s is around 805, If your not firmiliar with the MPF it stands for Maltby Playability Factor. It is a set of test performed on club heads to give them a number 850 and up is Ultra game improvment (most forgiving) 700 - 849 super game improvment 551-699 game improvment 400 - 550 conventional and it goes on from there to the harder to hit irons. I dont know anyting about your game but if you want to have the look of blades and a little more forgivness try the Maltby MMB they are a blade like muscle back, forged so they have that butter feel when you catch the sweet spot and the MPF is over 701 so they still pack a lot of forgivness. Now if your into having the wow of a big name brand you will have to look elsewere. However if you want performance and price this will get the job done. You can find a custom club maker and you should be able to get this set (depending on your shaft selection) spined and flowed lie fit and adjusted for I would guess around 600 bucks. The other option is if you know your needs (assuminmg you had the pings fitted) you can order right from golfworks.com 22 dollars a head plus the price of the shaft and the grip, add 10 bucks and they will build it to your specs. so for mabe 55 bucks a club or so you would have a set of forged Muscle backs that are top quality. Just rember your clubs will not go as far becuase the lofts are a players loft, for example the PW is 47 degrees not the 45 or even 44 degrees you find in most GI clubs. wow that was long winded sorry

why does it have to be one or the other? I have a 19degree hybrid that I hit about 240, thats about 20 yards longer then my 3 iron. I use it as a kind of five wood. I carry Driver, 3 wood, hybrid, 3-pw 56 and 60. I find the hybrid as an awsome club on long par fives that I miss the fairway. If I use the 3 or 4 iron i cant reach, and I have a hard time hitting a 3 wood out of they rough, so I grab the hybrid and let it fly.

I did a little snooping around for you and what ever you decide to do on the 2 iron I think there are two things to cinsider. To fit into your set of Irons you want it to be 18 degress of loft. Also to match the feel of your clubs you want what ever you choose to be swingweight of D2 hope this helps a little.

I have a skycaddie sg3 I love it!!!!! However the last 2 times I have been out it has a hard time aquiring a satalite. It will catch mabe one give me a wildly wrong distance and then just flash. I am going to change the batteries and see if that was part of the problem. Anyone have any advice or had this problem before?

I have done some of them. I personly dont like them so I would never put them on my clubs. But as long as you use enough grip solvent and adjust them within the first 3 or 4 min its not that hard to line them up. Put the grip in the vise and grip them like you would any other grip. take it out of the vise drop it into the playing position and adjust as needed.

You got it larlev. make sure to leave a little bit of tape over the end so you can twist it to seal the shaft. If to much gets down the shaft it can affect the bond of the club to the shaft. Some times the harder part is removing the old grip and grip tape. on steal you can just scrape it off with a razor but on graphite that can damage the fibers so you need to peel the old tape off by hand. (a small amount of heat helps the old tape come off). A ruber shaft clamp (mabe 2 bucks) is a very handy thing to have when gripping but not a nasesity.

The thing no one has brought up is its cheap. griping clubs is easy to do yourself. Even if you have somone else do it it is cheap. A lot of people are choosing to go with 5 to 8 dollar grips and that will get expensive. I play golf pride tour velvet at about 2.70 a grip so for less then a dozen prov1s I have all new grips and it does make the clubs feel new. If you want to do it your self PM me and I will talk you through it.