bukifvr

I'd definitely go the used route. I was at a small golf shop the other day and saw some nice used Ping's and Cleveland irons for $150.

When going through the fitting process they measure the distance of your wrist to the floor, then there is a table of recommended driver and 5 iron lengths. Knowing these measurements you figure out how long the other clubs should be. It is standard to have a 1/2" difference in length between each subsequent club. For example a 2W is 1/2" shorter than a Driver, a 6 iron is 1/2" shorter than a 5 iron. If you tell me what your wrist to floor measurement is, I can look up the recommended Driver and 5 iron lengths. This is from Golfsmith's Basics of Clubmaking book.

Just living with the scratches is one way to go, but here's a couple of ideas if you want to try to repair those scratches. 1. Do it yourself with automotive touch-up paint 2. Take to an automotive body shop and see if they will paint it for you. 3. Golfsmith use to have a service where they would repaint clubheads. I don't know if they still have this service. It use to be listed in there Clubmakers catalog.

LOL! Sorry, This is just sad.. Unnatural love? More like mutual respect!

Well, I did not know that, I realized that they weren't muscle backs, but I did not think they were true cavity backs either. Anyways 2 clubs with similar model names is pretty confusing.

Totally agree, I'm new to this forum and I have already noticed how often people ask "What clubs should I buy?" I wonder how many threads on this forum start with something like that. Ultimately, you just gotta put the time in and go out and hit them, and make your own decision.

First of all, Congratulations on losing all that weight. That takes alot of hard work and tremendous discipline. I don't have any ideas to help your swing, but if you work on it like you did losing weight I'm sure your golf game will be back to form soon. Good job.

Lie Adjustment is important, but you really need to develop a consistent and repeatable swing for it to really be beneficial.

It works for me, it should work for you. Let me know. And they say Buckeyes and Wolverines don't get along. GO BUCKS!!! :)

Standard length for drivers used to be 44", but recently manufacturers have been making drivers longer and longer so they can boast improved distance. But longer shafts are harder to control and may result in more mishits and lost distance and poor flight path. Its better to play a slightly shorter club and hit the sweet spot on the clubface consistantly. That will give you better distance and keep you in the short grass.

Sorry but I think you got your path backwards, If the ball starts straight down the target line and then curves right, then the clubface would be square at impact and the path would be out to in. The ball would fly straight at first because of the square clubface but then the sidespin would take over because of the out to in swing path, which causes the ball to curve to the right.

The Titleist 690 CB irons are nice clubs, but they are blade like irons, and more of a Players club. What I mean is they are designed with an accomplished golfer in mind. These clubs might be difficult for you play because they are not very forgiving. Playing golf is challenging enough without you having to struggle with the clubs you have. My recommendation is to find a set of used cavity back irons. Because of their design, they have more perimeter weighting making them easier to hit, get the ball airborne, and more forgiving on mishits. All major manufacturers make cavity back irons.

To hit my driver lower, I adjust my ball position about 1 ball back in my stance and tee it lower. By doing this I change the point in my swing where I impact the ball. Instead of impacting the ball on a slight upswing, I impact it more level therefore my clubface is delofted and the ball flies on a lower trajectory.

Thanks for the link to this thread, I've only scanned it briefly, but it looks like what I have been talking about above. Thanks again.