Dave40

You can take the club to a golf shop to get the specs. It probably hits easy because all the specs just happen to be a perfect match for your swing.

Even if the top has 14 dividers, the clubs will still get tangled up unless the dividers are full length. A few bags have full length dividers but most are not.

I've used the Bag Boy 180 for the last few years. Well built and easy to push. But it is a bit heavy and bulky to load and unload from a car trunk

Yes, I agree with the posts above. I made it sound more simple than it actually is. You would need to use the method on a hole that is straight, level, and has a yardage marker on the tee box. And it would still be difficult to separate carry distance from total distance with roll out.

The Club Glove neoprene covers are pretty good. A set of forged blades will look like they were stuck in a garbage disposal if you ride a golf cart without covers. To some, that adds character to the clubs, but if you want to keep them smooth and shiny then use covers. Also, I think the poster above is correct about rust. Leave the covers off when you get home.

If you are hitting a 5 iron 200 yards, I would definitely go with a stiff flex.

Changing the length of the club will also affect the swing weight. If your irons are at your preferred swing weight, I would not change the length.

Getting distance for the driver is easy on the course - subtract the distance left to the green from the total yardage of the hole you are on. For the irons, go to the course on a day when it is not busy. Hit three shots from 150 and three from 100. Once you find which irons hit those distances, you can get a good estimate of where the rest of the irons will hit. If you are a long hitter, hit from the 200 yard marker instead of the 100.

I would drop the 25 degree fairway wood and replace it with a 3 wood. The search for a fairway wood that you have confidence in can be a long and frustrating process, so don't get too discouraged too soon.

I tried the Jetspeed against the other TM drivers and liked the feel of the Jetspeed better. I think the stock Matrix shaft in the Jetspeed is the real improvement.

Can you take a demo club of each an hit it on some real turf at a driving range?

I've noticed that there are significant differences in the distances of hybrids based on the club design. For example, the Cobra Baffler tends to balloon on me but the Wilson D100 has a much lower trajectory. Finding the right hybrid to bridge a particular distance gap takes some trial and error.

The Razr X Black head is not as wide as the x hot, so the x hot should be a more forgiving iron. I don't know if the lie angle would change the point on the face where you are contacting the ball. However, the toe of the club might be contacting the ground and opening the face. In other words the club head is tilted down toward the toe instead of being level with the ground. In that case you would need a more upright lie.

I still have my old set of FG 17s. They are a bit heavier than most current irons. I like to practice with them on the range to groove a more precise swing.

Ordered a set of Wilson Staff D100 irons with graphite shafts from Golfsmith. It drop shipped directly from Wilson and arrived only two days later.

How does the Velocity feel off irons? I liked the NXT Extreme, but Pinnacles feel too hard. Is the Velocity feel as hard as Pinnacle or is it a bit softer?

If you're looking for a forged set, you can't go wrong with Mizuno, Bridgestone, or Wilson. So, you are on the right track.

Well, it depends on what you are clubs you are using. Some clubs that are 7 years old still look and play like new ones on the market today. I do think graphite shafts are better today than 7 years ago though.

If you need a grip larger than standard but smaller than midsize, then use an extra layer of tape. If you use more layers of tape, it will stretch the grip and make it feel very firm. So, if you like a grip with some cushioning, I would just go with a larger grip rather than put more than two layers of tape on it.

Just bought a set of Wilson Staff D100 irons. These are the most forgiving irons I have played. The bounce on the sole helps it slide through the crappy turf on the courses I play. I have the graphite shafts but the steel set is going for $499. Golfsmith has a demo iron you can hit in the store. You can order the set at Golfsmith or directly from the Wilson Staff website.

If you develop your swing using blades, it is sometimes difficult to transition to cavity backs, at least the game improvement type of cavity backs.

The distance you get might be similar to the 330, but you should notice a significant difference in spin and the ball holding the green. If the greens you are playing are very soft, then maybe there won't be too much difference.

I like the Wilson Staff 50 in orange. At a buck per ball, it's a steal. I have used more expensive two and three piece golf balls, but the difference in performance is so minimal it's not worth the extra cost. When I want to play one with better spin, then I will shell out the extra $$ for the urethane golf balls.

You can also get good deals on new irons when they are discounted to make room for newer models. Some brands don't discount much (Ping, Titleist, and Mizuno) but most other brands will let stores slash prices on older models.