ChrisWev

That one didn't look bad compared to the one on the UK coverage, which was provided by golf channel I think, or whatever this logo is for

Did anybody see Nadals swing in the break? How on earth does he play off 3.4? It's a miracle.

Depend where I was stood!

Being fairly new to the game I had only ever thought about it as get to +5 and you can pretty much go on tour, never actually thought about all those other +5's fighting to stay on it. I imagine the locker room gets a bit edgy, like an office does when redundancies are coming.

To be honest if I was in the situation of a Pro Golfer on Tour the pressure if you're around the bubble on the last event has to be up there with or more than the pressure in a Major playoff or last few holes etc. Generally if you're in contention at a major you're always going to get another chance at a major but loose your card and there's a half decent chance you never come back.

Yeah it's what most programs do as 25-30 FPS is the standard as human eye can't see any more. Thing is that's not what I want, I want frame by frame :( I've got a crap workaround, basically edit the video on the phone in iMovie and slow it down to 1/4 sec (120/4), this uses every frame (I think) so then when I stick it into a rotation program it's going to knock it down to 30 FPS but then it doesn't matter as I've already got the detail due to slowing it down. Apparently Final Cut Pro X can work with 120 FPS, but I don't havea Mac and I don't have that program, doh! This is a pain in the ass!

Ok the problem I'm now having is any video recorded in the iPhones portrait orientation switches to landscape view in any other media media player/ Kinovea etc, other than Quicktime. I'm guessing apple record every video in landscape orientation and put a tag in to orientate it in quicktime. When I use windows movie maker to rotate the file it changes the 240/120 fps to 30 fps, so I'm back at square one, at least for portrait videos. I know you may say "just use landscape" but the range and my garden are a bit tight on space for that to be easy Any advice?

Ah fair enough, If I nail one they go miles too but that's a long way from my "usual", the same way I'm not including the fat 7i's that go 100-120. I'm not saying anyone specifically is lying (I probably put that across the wrong way earlier) but if people can smash it (wildly) why not reign it in and take a normal guys distance but a lot closer to target? I'd happily get shot of half of my irons if the others were guaranteed "standard distance" and within 15 yards of target I wonder if they do drivers with a 460cc head with 17 degrees of loft? This would solve a lot of my problems.

I feel your pain!

Yeah I did realise that all clubs have the gear effect but assume it's corrected less with face curvature the more you head towards your irons? But with the driver being larger will it twist more than say an iron (much narrower head), I would expect it to. I imagine chunky irons are built to keep the face square more with the design of the cavity and COG of the club? Say a 5i with the same size head as a PW will this have the same amount of gear effect? I would guess it would theoretically but it's counteracted by the loft?

Yeah the site is great, I've read posts on here for months but only just starting to post now I've found my way a little. I've no doubt I'm probably talking some crap, but it's to be expected with limited experience :) I try not to lie to myself with distances as it can only get me in trouble on the course, if I believe myown hype so to speak. That's one of the main reasons for buying Game golf though, the numbers don't lie

Oh of course there are, my point is 75% of people playing off 20 claim that sort of distance on here (whether they're on about carry or total on a rock hard concrete course is a different matter). I'd say a good 95% of people in the 20 Hcp region would be easily below 250. Yeah I just checked, the middle guy on the US PGA in 2011 still took home 600k, so it's not to be sniffed at. I appreciate it's less on the European tour and much smaller on other tours.

Yeah of course there will people people out there, seen a few on you tube like Gorilla James on Mark Crossfield's youtube channel. He can get to 300 no problem, although it's wayward, his short game is about the worst I've seen of anyone Fair play if someone can make more than the average tour pro though, good on them

The thing I don't understand is to hit 270 (in any direction) you need to be hitting it cleanly off the centre of the club, unless you've got an inefficient swing which is much faster than a tour pro who uses an optimal launch driver for their speed (9 deg quoted). I'd like to know what driver and loft they have to achieve this as I'd assume most are in the 10-12 deg loft range which to my knowledge would max out at 270 with a 20 handicappers inefficiency. According to what I know, if you're hitting it cleanly to that distance it's gotta be going roughly in a straight line (Pull, straight, Push) and as I'm sure most peoples troubles in that handicap area are going to be a slice they're going to lose distance due to that slice. If I Av 225 with the driver and I slice the ball it goes about 170, physics says anything not optimal will reduce energy into the ball. To hit it bad and it go 270 would require some serious swing speed numbers. Anyone whacking one 270 into the trees or onto the next fairway all the time is going to get an awful lot of doubles and not a lot of carry, even the pro's do that so how a 20 handicap guy does the same to recover as a tour pro is a miracle. Also the point with the 7i, this will need a clean hit too and good swing speed to produce numbers over 160, but due to the loft/ d-plane this should be difficult to slice/ hook? Obviously 40 yards left or right isn't going to help, and I've done it but to do that with a 7i takes some doing from 150 yards from the green. It would be like a 30% push/ pull? I might be talking crap (like I said I've only been playing 5 months) but the numbers just don't seem to add up to me. I think people lying to them selves or being ignorant of their real numbers can be very dangerous. In 70 rounds (fair enough I play a lot on my own, but my course is one of the busiest in the world so I end up watching people often) I've seen one guy hit 300 and he said that was the drive of his life, he drove the green whilst I was on it . Sorry if I sound argumentative, I don't mean it to sound like that, I'm just amazed in all honesty.

Yeah that's what I thought

Yeah, I totally agree :)

To be honest I've never hit a Driver with a stiff shaft, this could be something to look at. I'm using the standard Ping G20 regular at the minute. To be honest I do feel a bit scared to swing at full speed as it does "feel" (as much is it can feel to me with limited experience) more open if I do this, which compounds the problem. Saying that my old Wilson 3W and 5W do feel an awful lot heavier and stiffer and I feel I can swing these harder and I find fairways more often. My G25 3W is regular also, this slices more than the Wilson. My pro told me to stick with regular so I took his word for it, but I suppose he's not seen me swing the driver at the speed I can (as I know what will happen), and it looks like a banana . I don't slice hits off the centre, but can push the odd one.

Yeah I've got the lines sorted Yeah that's what I thought it would be, The camera burst mode can store 10 x 20 MB High Res RAW files every second (about 200MB/ Sec until the buffer gets overloaded) so it shouldn't have any issues with a 1600 x 1200 (500k) jpg's at 240 FPS (120MB/ Sec), in fact it should be brilliant at it and should be capable of twice as much. Having spent around 4k on camera equipment it's a bit silly that my new SLR is beaten by an iPhone (in one way at least).

Another big thanks for this, it's fantastic. With this set up right and with good calibration could get it to measure clubhead speed, ball flight and all other kinds of movements

I agree they're not 100%, they could never be, but there's gotta be an 80% correlation. No way does somebody who hits 270 consistently with the Driver play off 20, it would be practically impossible, I've never seen anyone's short game that bad. Saying that, I've seen lads playing off scratch and very low single digits that even struggle to reach those numbers. With the fact driver is probably the most unforgiving club there is with regards to hook and slice. I'd hazard a guess some people smash it straight into the deck and it rolls 70 yards as much as they hit their numbers on here. Some of the numbers for the 7I are also a bit suspect, can hit "170" yet playing off 20? You could tee off with a 7I, hit it again and reach a 340 Par 4 in regulation (or be pin high) with those numbers. I could play off my handicap with 5 clubs if I could hit the numbers some people quote on here .

Just a question that has been bugging me for a while, obviously the driver has a slight curve (my old cheapo Wilson 3W and 5W don't seem to, think my G25 3W does, that I've only just bought), but I've now started to question why? Now I think know what gear effect is the reason it's effectively closed near the heel to start the ball left (new ball flight laws) as to correct a gear effect which is going to make the ball slice? ie attempt to correct what would be a straight starting heel hit that would be gear effected into slice that ends in the trees, into a pull slice that ends in the right rough (hopefully). The reason I ask is I hit a lot out of the heel with my driver (not figured out why yet, it's on my list to sort out) so would like to know what is actually happening at impact. I'm assuming I also hit my 3W and 5W out of the heel a bit too but these don't slice anywhere near as much (they don't look to have a curved face at all), including factoring in for D-Plane and they will naturally curve less etc. From Gamegolf, about 10 rounds, off the tee: D: 42% Hit (70% RH side of FW), 42% right, 16% left 3W: 65% Hit (pretty central), 19% left, 16% right 5W: 88% Hit, 13% left Those numbers would suggest to me I would be better off with a straight face? EDIT: Video added by @mvmac 8-30-15

This thread amazes me. I'm guessing nobody overstates their handicap (ie bandits) on here, so most peoples handicap is around their lowest number, so I would guess a lot are one or two numbers higher. With that in mind there are some crazy numbers on here for people listed with very average handicaps. I'm currently off 18 via the CONGU method which would have me at a 90 swing speed on the chart's below (232 total on this chart which would be about right). I know I personally swing my club about 7-10mph faster than 90mph as this is reflected in my Irons which are hit much more cleanly (9-6I anyway). My driver hits are off centre (usually a bit off the heel recently) 50% of the time, bleeding distance with fade/ slice, which is probably accounting for my distance loss for my actual swing speed. Average total distance of centre/ clean hits in the cold, wet UK, taken from "Gamegolf" with about 8 rounds of data. I've only been playing 5 months (about 1000 holes) which means my numbers are changing by the day as I'm changing my swing etc, quite a few bad hits/ knock downs might be dragging these number averages down. D: 223 (264 max recorded, without outside influence, wind/ hills etc) 3W: 210 (259 max) 5W: 190 (216 max) 3Hy: 180 (226 max) 4: Don't use yet 5: Not enough data 6: 162 (200 max) 7: 152 (175 max) 8: 145 (174 max) 9: 127 (162 max) W: 114 (140 max) 52: 95 SW: 85 58: 70-100 (depends if I thin it ) Obviously those numbers don't probably reflect the true gaps but I think they will with a bit more data. I'm hoping to get on a launch monitor and gap test once I stop messing with my swing in big ways. Some people on here are quoting 270+ with D and 170 7I, and probably playing off 15-20, you boys are either lying or you need to spend some time chipping and putting as your short game is playing off about 50.

Erik, Yes I'm on Windows and probably always will be due to my work computer requiring three screens and I imagine this would be an expensive set up with Apple. Saying that I might look into a change when the laptop and comp are due for renewal. I also didn't realise you can just change a .mov to .mp4, that's my lesson for today! Cheers! :) Steve, Thanks for that, I've checked it out and on "first play" it looks like it's exactly what I want. I like the way you can slow it down to 10% speed and play frame by frame. Had a quick look at drawing lines and they seem to slowly vanish, but I'm sure there's a way around this, I'll watch some youtube vids. Thanks for the help guys, it's much appreciated. I've only tried the slow motion 240 FPS when there's been low light, it's just usable for swing path and seeing the club face rotate (a bit blurry) but think at 120 FPS it should work better. Looking forward to trying out 240 in good sunlight to see if it has an effect. Standard video on the iPhnone 6/ 6+ looks to be 30 FPS and it's very clear, even in early morning sun (not that bright). I cannot for the life of me understand how my SLR cannot do at least 120 FPS video though, instead of 60 :/ Would have been nice to mess around with the shutter speed and aperture to get what I want. I can't imagine picture burst mode at 10 FPS is going to be that great for a 0.3 second downswing, the 3 frames should be crystal clear though

Right bare with me, I've read the threads on member swings etc, this is more of a technical question. As it's not actually a "my swing" vid I thought best off to post it here....so I can get my "my swing" thread off to a good start :) Basically I've recorded some swings whilst messing around with a few things with the iPhone 6+. The video records in 1280 x 720 and at 240 FPS (this is great btw), it can also record a slow motion video at 240 FPS, which is also fantastic, although need more light for this (I'm guessing the aperture isn't as wide). My main issue is it records the videos in .mov format (Apple/ Quicktime). I've got programs that can use this and play frame by frame and easily cut the actual swings from the crap in-between to keep filesize down and analysis simple, saving again as .mov While this is fine for just looking on video I would like to use some of the tools which I'm assuming some of you guys use. GASP, V1 Home 2.0 etc, to draw lines on the videos to check plane, head movement, sway etc. Most of these programs need avi, mp4, wmv though and when I'm trying to convert I'm loosing the 240 FPS. I seem to get cut to 25 or 60 FPS at best, even when going through all the settings etc, which is kind of a waste. Basically has anyone any experience with converting a .mov file to something useable in the swing analysis programs and keeping the high FPS, or know of a video program/ tool you can "draw lines on" when using a .mov file? I've also got a Canon 6D SLR camera (avi files), but the maximum this will do is 60 FPS, although as you would expect each frame is of much better quality as I can use wider apertures and faster shutter speeds etc. This is good for some things but not others,I 'd rather have the 240 FPS from what the iPhone can kick out in all honesty. As being able to draw lines on swing videos etc kind of comes under instruction, I thought this would be the best place to ask. Any help would be much appreciated.