Cesar

The difference is feel vs reality. As long as you feel like you're swinging easy, then you tend to be more in control and on balance. Much easier to get the clubface square at impact in good timing that way. It really doesn't matter that you're swinging harder than you think.

Thanks. I agree, the feel is incredible. I had a blue imoic midsize on the putter before getting it refinished and loved it. the only thing is that tend to run a bit smaller than what I'm used to. Their midsize felt just like a regular old school smooth ping grip. This white one is considered "oversized", but in reality it feels just like the mid-size grips I've been used to playing. Not sure about Int'l orders. I'm guessing if you have a valid credit card, you should be able to. I suggest emailing them at custsli@sli-bos.com and ask for Monica to be sure. You can also get a quote through here: http://www.blackoxideservice.com/golf.html

Go for it man....woods be damned. The experience you get playing under the gun is invaluable. Everything is different in those tournaments. Your mind tends to want to race, your body feels a little more tense and the only way to get past that is reps. Play as many of tournaments as you can just so you can get used to playing in those conditions. As for your woods, if you're anything like me, you're probably swinging too hard. One thing I "try" to do is hit the ball with barely harder than a practice swing and with a good tempo when my Driver starts to to go south. Especially in a big tourney where my natural instinct is to try to bomb it 320 past everybody. It's a lot easier said than done, but start off swinging 90% and see if that helps. If it doesn't, go down to 85%, then 80% until you find that you can hit the ball consistently in play. Also, remember to breathe. I know it sounds funny, but it's very important. anything you can do lower your heart rate is going to help you. Good luck!

Very nice!!! Nice playing. All I can say is enjoy it and don't take it for granted. I really miss those days.

Agreed 100%. What I love about it is that it's like having a brand new putter, but also having having the comfort knowing that beneath the new finish, it's still the same "old reliable" that's been working for me for over a decade. Best of both worlds. I'm also pretty sure I'm not going to run across anybody that has one like this, which is pretty cool.

Yeah, this has me kicking around the idea of maybe picking up one of the old Pro Platinum Laguna mid-slants on Ebay and sending it down for similar treatment. I just can't believe how good of a job these folks do down there. They really know their stuff!!!

It depends on your specific circumstance. Mine came out to around $115.00 because they had to strip the Pro Platinum finish ($30) and pull and re-insert the shaft ($15) + shipping and handling. You can save $15 by just sending them the clubhead. My advise is to ask for a quote. I'm all over it. I had bought the red and black Circa 62 headcover since I lost the original ages ago. Then last night I went to my buddy's house to put the new grip on and he just so happened to have a Pro Platinum headcover laying around that he gave me. So now I have two.

Yes sir. It's a white, oversized IOMIC grip. Thanks! I'm extremely pleased with it. They said from the beginning that the milling looked to be in good enough shape to keep as is. For an extra fee (and time), they could have re-milled the putter for me.

To anyone considering getting new shafts, I highly recommend trying out the KBS Tour before making a decision. Based on my experience, they have a very similar ball flight to the Project X, in that they tend to rise quick then flatten out, which I think allows me to control distance much better. Especially in the wind. You also get great feel from these shafts while the Project X tend to play a little too rigid (at least for me). They really are the best of both worlds, I'm never playing anything else again.

OK, she just made it back to me today. All I can say is WOW!!! Black Oxide Services did an amazing job and turned it around super quick! In just 1 week, all the dings and scratches are a thing of the past. It's like having a brand new putter, but better. Big thanks to Monica and Sherry over there for taking such great care of me. I can't recommend them enough to anybody considering getting something like this done. Here are some pics:

That's right, where the club lies at address doesn't matter. The only thing that matters is where the clubface lie angle is at impact. The only way to really do find that out is by using the board/tape fitting. Clubs that are too upright at impact will tend to cause a pull tendancy while the opposite is true for clubs that are too flat.

OK, so they did it right. If you're using the board and tape now and the marks are on the heal of the club, then your club is too upright. Get them bent flatter to where that mark is dead center again and you should see your shots straighten out signifigantly.

If your heal is the part of the sole making contact with the ground, then your irons are too upright and should be flattened. Irons that are too upright will definitely cause a left tendancy. What strikes me as weird is that you say you got fitted for them when you got them. Can you describe that fitting process? Did you actually hit balls on a board or was the fitting based on your physical characteristics (i.e. height, arm length, etc.) ?

I understand the analogy you're using, but as it was explained to me it was the amount of of the clubface being exposed to the golf ball that was the problem. Maybe the material used in clubfaces can take smaller more concentrated impact vs a more dissapated impact covering a larger area. I don't know. I'm a simpleton when it comes to this stuff. Maybe they were just covering their ass in case I broke their club. All I know is, based on personal experience, I have broken two clubs hitting range balls in a one week period. I personlly know of 5 other people who have done the same this summer alone. I have yet to meet or hear about anyone doing it on the course hitting a ProV or similar ball. Then again, maybe that's all just blind luck. Who knows? When I crack my first club on the course hitting a real golf ball, I'll probably sing a different tune. Until then, I'm sticking with my belief and will try to avoid rangeballs with my woods. Sorry, for the sarcastic reply. I took your "so all you have is a 'guy at Nakashima'" comment as a dismissive wisecrack. In any case, sorry. All I have is what I was told and personal experience. It has led to me taking a more conservative approach in practicing with my woods and have now gone 2 months without breaking one. So, whether it defies the basic laws of physics or not, my newfound paranoid method is working for me and I'm sticking to it. Nothing worse than having to scramble for a replacement club days before a tournament.

no message. duplicate

Golf clubs are not designed to hit rocks, or ball bearings, or any other hard non golf ball objects you can think of. Obviously, a rock would probably damage your club where say a tennis ball wouldn't. But we're talking golf balls here. I'm not a physics major either, but I'd be interested to hear why you think the force would have the same wider distribution on a 50 compression ball vs a 100 compression ball. It would seem to me the act of a compression and de-compression would vary depending on the ball you hit and how hard you hit it, thus creating different levels of stress on a golf club. Are you saying all golf balls are created equal?

I was in your same boat until it happened to me. Been playing for 23 years, have hit thousands and thousands of range balls without ever having any problem excempt for a clubhead flying off once, which had nothing to do with the rangeballs. But technology has changed, clubfaces are thinner now and not as strong as the used to be. I went from never having anything happen in 20+ years to two damaged clubfaces in a 7 day span. I know of at least 5 other guys this summer alone at my club that have cracked their drivers (multiple brands/models). That NEVER used to happen.

To clarify what I was told, the way it was explained to me is this: Higher compression golf balls compress less at impact. Which means less area of of the clubface comes in contact with the golf ball before the club launches it. If you watch the pros hit it on TV on their super slow motion cameras, maybe 10% of the ball is being compressed. That will leave an impact area roughly the size of a nickle. Now when you start dealing with rangeballs, which are probably around 60 or less compression brand new and can get extremely low with wear and tear over time, a signifigantly larger area of the ball is coming into contact with the club face at the moment of impact since the ball is compressing that much more. If you can compress 50% of the ball, then in theory, the area that comes into to contact with the face goes from the size of a nickle to the size of a golf ball. That fact combined with high swing speeds and new thin faces on golf clubs can often lead to cracking of the club face. More area of the clubface is being put under stress, thus being made to "work harder".

Then don't believe it. I couldn't care less. Did you expect me to pull out a thesis or something? As for the manufacturers, you're right. I'm sure they'd all be lining up to tell people not to hit range balls with their clubs. Now THAT makes sense. You must be in marketing. LOL!!! Again, it is a COMBINATION of high swing speeds, thinner clubfaces, and low compression balls. If you're not swinging 115 + MPH, then you probably have little to worry about. But perhaps you'd be willing to set me straight. WHY exactly do you "highly doubt that the fact that I was hitting lower compression range balls had anything to do with it"? What reference do you have better than the guys that manufacture my golf club?

I was told this by the guys at Nakashima when I went and got fitted for my driver. They said with the thin faces in many of the new woods today, swinging at high speeds with low compression golf balls will make the face work harder, which could lead to cracking. Some people confuse it with thinking that range balls are too hard, but it's actually the opposite. It made sense to me, but I was still a little skeptical. Then I went ahead and shattered my clubface on a 1 week old R9 TP 3 Wood I had just bought while hitting rangeballs. Left a hole the size of a golf ball right on the sweet spot. A week later, I cracked my Naka clubface hitting rangeballs. That's all I needed to see.

I ended up using this site ( http://www.scorelow.com/cat--Golf-Cl...overs:150.html ) and bought this one: It's for a Circa 62, but it doesn't say that anywhere on the headcover and it fits my Newport just fine.

Hadn't seen one of these threads in a while and figured I'd post some before and after pics. The putter I am sending down is a Scotty Cameron Pro Platinum Newport Mid-Slant. I've had her for about 10 years now and as you'll be able to see below, she can use the face lift. I'm going with the III Black Oxide finish which is: Shiny Sole, Satin Face, and Matte Black on Top & Back. All the existing white paintfill will remain white and all the the existing gold paintfill will be replaced with silver. Here's the pics I took last night: I just sent it down today and hope to have it back by mid-September. I'll post the "after" pics when I get her back.

It's true they will not damage your irons, but too low compression on a golf ball can certainly damage a driver/fairway wood if you have any kind of swing speed. The low compression makes the clubface work that much harder. I've cracked a driver face with a range ball and shattered an R9 TP 3Wood out there. Not fun. Nowadays, I tend to save the rocks I find out on the course, or pick the decent non-rangeballs out of the bucket to hit woods. I'll keep my woods exposure to rangeballs at the bare minimum. If I need to work on those clubs, I'll do it out on the course with real golf balls.

It's not proof by exhaustion. I gave a good example in the very post you replied to. Please show me where it says the group gets warned and has 10 holes to catch up before they are put on the clock. Because according to what iacas has said, and I have no reason to believe he made it up, is that Tiger and Paddy were warned on the 6th hole for falling behind and had actually lost time by the time the 16th hole had arrived. Why weren't they put on the clocker much much sooner? Why wait to the 70th hole of the tournament if they were behind all day? You use the discretion to cut them slack all day and then drop the hammer during the final 3 hole stretch? How does that make sense? If the rule is clear cut and well defined, then I'd like to see where the rule states they get 10 holes to catch up before getting put on the clock. That's it. BTW, in the example you used at the Players, what were the details surrounding it? Were they also given 10 holes to catch up?

Tiger Cabrera Perry Mahan O'Hair