glbrum

I actually hate wearing a glove. I used to do it, but stopped and it felt a lot better. It's actually quite uncomfortable to me now. I think the answer is to take them back to the shop and see if they see it as an issue

I just got these 2 days ago. JPX 800 Pro's, so they are a new model from Mizuno. I've only used them for 2 sessions. I don't wear a glove and I've never had problems in the past with the club slipping with my old irons. I may have to take these in the to the shop and see what they can do.

I just got a new set of Mizuno irons and the grips are quite slippery [stock Mizuno M-21 grip]. On almost every swing at the range the last 2 days it feels like the club is gonna head down range with the ball. I've never had this problem before. Is it normal for new irons to have slippery grips [and my hands are not normally sweaty, nor were they any more sweaty than normal while hitting]?

I don't have a specific club recommendation for you, but just look up the lofts of both your 3i and 3W and then get a club that has a loft right in between. In theory, that should get you to 200yds.

I'm debating between the Nike VR Split Cavity and the Callaway Diablo Forged. I was able to find a place that had an outdoor range so I could test some ball flights with several clubs and the Nike and Callaway came out on top. I'm having a hard time making my decision between the two so I need some help! Does anyone have any experience with either of these clubs that can help me out? if it matters, I also hit the TaylorMade Burner, R9 & R9TP, Cobra S2 Forged, Cleveland CG7 Black Pearl, and the Mizuno MX-200 & 300. Any and all advice is welcome!

so, is there any benefit to the laser milling and the zip grooves of the BP series versus the regular CG7 series?

I searched the archives and couldn't find anything specific, so.... I'm tentatively in the market for new irons [maybe a grad gift] and I've decided, for now, to go with Cleveland as I've been playing them for 11-12 years now. My handicap is probably 9-10 right now, although I probably play more to a 12 [haven't been playing much, but that will change once college ends in a few weeks]. Now to the clubs, there are 4 types of CG7's on Cleveland's website that I'm looking at: CG7 Black Pearl, CG7 Tour Black Pearl, CG7 Irons, and CG7 Tour Irons. According to the website, the Tour's are for low - mid handicappers and the normal non-tours are for mid-high handicaps. Then, the Black pearl series has the laser-milled and zip grooved faces, which the regular CG7 series doesn't have. What are the main differences between the Tour vs. Non-Tour irons? Is one better than the other? Anything the Black Pearl has that the regular CG7's don't that's not explicitly stated on the website? Based on my handicap, should I stick with regular irons or should I try out a Tour set?

I'll let you decide for yourself, but I don't think Shorecliffs is worth a lot of your money. The best way to describe the course would be to say this: they put together in the housing and then they squeezed a golf course in there. Slow greens and rock hard, tight fairways [on most holes]; not maintained real well. Quality wise, it's equivalent to Casta Del Sol in Mission Viejo

I haven't read any of the replies, but I deal with a similar problem with my driver. I don't sway on the back swing, but mine's all in the downswing, which causes I nice high slice. My focus is on rotating around my front leg while keeping my entire front foot planted in the ground. Another focus is smooth tempo. If I get too fast I will hook it just like you're afraid of. The last focus is on holding the follow through. If I can do this then I'm balanced and that also means my tempo is good. If those 3 things line up, it's bombs away!

I used to play a steel shaft driver when I was in high school [graduated in '04] because I had a very fast swing. It worked for the time being. I hit the ball straight and fairly long for being a skinny little kid. I just recently picked up a graphite shafted driver because I was terribly inconsistent with the steel driver. I've noticed that when my tempo is dialed in, the new driver is on average 40 yards further and far more consistent with fairways-hit. On the flip side, when my tempo is off, I hit the ball all over the place; left, right, really right, you name it. Moral of the story: get a lesson or just more time on the range with the big stick

This is all making sense. The consensus being the 60* is good for green side shots with difficult lies, tough pins, and bunker play and the occasional spinner from 75 yds. Thanks for all the input. I don't know if I'll get one [poor college student here], but it's an intriguing idea now..... oh, and in regards to the walking adds 5-10 strokes. I broke 80 for the one lonely time while walking. Call it an anomoly, but I like walking. It gives me time to think [or rather, not think]!

I'm pretty sure that's the model SW I have and it is rusty. It doesn't inhibit the playability of the club, nor does it increase it. I think it was a marketing gimmick that said, "rust=more spin". I don't think that has made a different in my wedge play...

does that mean you're replacing spikes in your left shoes like every 5-6 rounds? I got new spikes put in probably 15 rounds ago and they are fresh as can be.

like everyone else has said, you just have to practice it. if you're scared, not matter how far away you are from the pin, you're gonna hit a bad shot. you have to be confident and expect to hit a good shot otherwise it won't happen. As far as the flop-a-dop goes, while it may be fun, it is a very hard shot to hit and I wouldn't advise hitting it unless you absolutely have to.

I am not trying to bash anyone who chooses to play a 60* wedge, but simply a question......one my side of the equation, I play a 56* and a 53* [which I'd rather have more like a 51*, but I digress]. My yardage gap between 53* and PW is about 20 yds, which I'm okay with [I rarely find myself in that gap, anyway]. I hit ALL shots under 100 yds with my 56* and I tend to do fairly well with u/d %. So my questions are these: -does the 60* help you around the green, where a 56* wouldn't do? -do you honestly feel the 60* helps you, or is it just cool to have a 60* in the bag? -what club[s] did you take out to accommodate a 60* wedge? -are you more comfortable with a full 60* wedge swing than say a 3/4 or 1/2 swing with a 54* or PW? [I've heard they're hard to hit] disclaimer: this is an honest post and honest questions. I've never used a 60* wedge and I see a lot of folks, atleast on here, that play one. That means it must be worth a spot in my bag, right?

I actually played most of my round yesterday with the NXT Extreme. I get good distance off the tee and with my irons. If you're worried about control into the greens, be weary [sp?] that you won't get a lot of spin on the ball so account 5-7 yards of roll if you get a pure shot on it. If you don't tend to get a lot of spin while playing any ball, then account for more........

I agree here. I just switched to a regular flex graphite shaft driver from a stiff steel shaft driver. The slice came immediately, but I could feel my swing was coming over the top [which caused the slice]. Once I got my swing on the correct plane, I was hitting the same as with the old steel shaft [ie: straight or a slight draw].

My dad won a Nike Sasquatch in a tournament about 2 years ago and he never used it. I'm currently using a Callaway Steelhead III from about 2002. I thought I'd give the Nike a try as I've heard so much about new[er] driver technology...Here are a few stats on the drivers, as they are very different, to help out: Callaway - uniflex steel shaft, 10 deg pure contact = 270-275 yds Nike - Diamana regular flex graphite shaft, 10.5 deg pure contact = 265 yds also, the Nike is about a half inch longer than my Callaway. With the Callaway, if i get to fast on it, I hook it. If I get to fast with the Nike I slice it. Am I slicing it because it's a regular flex graphite and I'm used to steel? does the +.5 inch extra length mean anything for the slice? would I be better off with a stiff shaft?I've only used it at the range once and on the course yesterday, do I just need more time with it? Would the loft difference, although minimal, account for the distance loss alone? Thanks

I found the same thing, I can never get it lined up exactly where I want to hit the putt. It's easier to line it up on shorter putts, but on the long ones I try and get it close to the line and then compensate from behind before hitting

I tried out the Nike One Platinum yesterday and really liked it. I like a lot of control [read: spin] around the greens and these give me that. As of now, these are the new ball for me.

I like to get as close as possible. I'm more comfortable with a SW than I am with a Gap Wedge or PW. Basically, anything 100 and in is more/most comfortable.

so again with the groove question. since my irons are 10 years old and the grooves are worn, what benefit will I see from new[er] irons with fresh[er] grooves?

re grooves: beyond getting better spin, what else do fresh grooves do for me? better control? re shafts: that's a good point. I never thought about that before. I should look into the differences that are out there... is there any benefit to a new driver or woods? I keep hearing that the new ones have a lot better ball control. true? worth it?

I've been playing the same clubs since 1999. I'll say they've gotten the job done. I got them at the tender age of 14 [now 23] and they've been through the highs and the lows. I know the woods were new, but the irons may have been used. Driver: Callaway Steelhead III 3/5 woods: Callaway Steelhead Plus Irons: Cleveland TA 5 My problem these days is my tempo. I have a beautiful snap hook going with my woods [which I managed to remedy, for the most part, this past weekend by slowing my swing down a lot]. The irons are more sporadic; if I get fast they draw, if I'm slow they fade/slice. This is something I should probably fix before new clubs? [obviously not the clubs fault I'm hooking/slicing] I shot an 80 [par 70] on Friday and an 82 [par 74] on Saturday, so the clubs aren't necessarily dead....According to Scorecard my handicap for the 12 rounds I've put in this year is 9.1 Are new clubs or maybe just woods or just irons going to help me? I've been out of it for so long I don't know what's good and what's not. Suggestions? EDIT to add: don't pay attention to my handicap index in the side bar, I haven't changed it since i became a member....

I learned a new technique recently that I added in a different thread. the link is below [hopefully it works]: http://thesandtrap.com/forum/showthr...071#post240071