supercow

Duval does something similar. I've also fiddled around with this technique (rotating your head toward target prior to impact) and I think it has helped to reduce some strain in my lower back, gain a bit of distance, as well as gain a little bit more control. Takes a bit of getting used to though... (especially with regards to timing. Go too fast/slow and the head movement can impact on your swing negatively.)

http://thesandtrap.com/forum/showthr...hlight=vinegar

Believe it or not there are stroke monitors for putters these days http://www.perfectstroke.org/catalog...=SAM%20PuttLab Most of the time though, I think its a case of trail, error, and practice...

You're talking about X Factor theory, right? If I recall correctly, the average hip turn on tour was 45 degrees and shoulder turn about 90 degrees. However, it should be noted that there was some misintepretation of this theory by many people in the golfing community...

- too much sliding (feel as though you maintain your knee flex in your back leg on the way back) - bad balance (caused by bad setup, nothing you can really do about this except be more careful during your pre-shot routine) - footwork is sloppy (notice how your both your left/right knee's both change knee flex in your driver swing?) - swing plane seems a little steep (can't really tell though since you don't have a videos directly behind you) - just swing the club (looks like you went for a little more hand/arm action during your first driver swing, second swing looks more synchronised)

I've heard of one teacher who actually advocated attempting to hook the ball when you were slicing and doing vice versa when you were hooking. Not exactly my cup of tea but hey, its an option (albeit a very bad one in my opinion).

1) Pick target from behind 2) Align clubface with target 3) Grip club with left 4) Take stance and complete grip 5) Relax/Waggle 6) Swing

Have to wonder whether he has stronger lofts/longer shafts on his irons if he's hitting 180 yard 8 irons...

The Burner encompasses "Superfast Technology" (i.e. a really long and light golf shaft which makes it easier to hit it further but as you've discovered can make you rather wonky). Based on test results I've seen the FT-i basically spins a heck of a lot more than the average driver of the same loft (which therefore makes it easier to hit straight but at the expense of distance (as you've discovered)). So, its a combination of both factors at play here, both club and your golf swing as well.

38" for me.

How do you stop the cables from getting tangled up while swinging?

Interlock. Hands are just too small for me to grip the club properly using an overlapping grip and ten finger grip just feels awkward.

Tempo seems very similar to Ernie,

Depends on the type of shot you'd like to hit. More wrist cock, steeper angle of attack, ball forward = higher. Less wrist cock, shallow angle of attack, ball further back = lower.

Coke isn't going to remove too much of the chrome. You'll probably end up with a rather clean (but sticky) wedge. Removing chrome involves some pretty very un human friendly chemicals and also noxious fumes. Its not something you want to try unless you have a large, well ventilated space. If you want to refinish you could try some of the techiques mentioned in this thread, http://thesandtrap.com/forum/showthr...hlight=vinegar Otherwise, you could also try 'flaming' it. Basically involves heating the thing with a butane torch. Removing the resulting finish, then flaming it again. From what I've heard its a slightly more durable finish... (than bluing or oil can).

I know of someone who had a 905R which had the 'acoustic plug' fall out. Apparently, it improved the sound quite a bit. Could try that if you're desperate. Would probably void the warranty though... Apparently, some other people have tried removing it deliberately with some success, http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/lofive...hp/t28877.html

My three wood gets swapped for a low lofted hybrid when the conditions suit (Three wood goes in when it is needed off the tee while a low lofted hybrid goes in when its needed off the deck.).

Agreed. Its just too hard to explain things across the Internet and its clear that you're misinterpreting some of our suggestions.

Here's a collection of some of my notes, http://dtbnguyen.googlepages.com/Creating-Spin-1.01.pdf Shot looks good but there's a time and situation for everything...

If you're really cheap then you could always go with an old bed spread, mattress, or rug. Funnily enough, they're often sturdier than the specialised mets that you buy in golf stores...

Good way to get an idea of what you're in for is to go to one of the introductory clubmaking schools at Golfworks, http://www.golfworks.com/article.asp_Q_ai_E_12 or http://www.golfsmith.com/cm/?PHPSESS...a71ee510758af3 . If you do a search of GolfWRX then there are a few threads on the equipment that is required/needed to get started in clubmaking. http://www.hirekogolf.com/ , http://www.wishongolf.com/twforum/ , https://www.proclubmakers.org/ , http://www.golfsmith.com/cm/forum/gs...code=advanced1 are also supposed to have good clubmaking forums...

http://www.blackoxideservice.com/

One of the major designers of Rifle went to FST after TT/Rifle merged. I hear they're making some good products now, http://www.fstshafts.com/ Also Aerotech have steel fibre shafts (instead of shafts being extruded steel fibres are wound until they produce a complete shaft), http://www.aerotechgolfshafts.com/ They're supposedly also very good even even though they seem to have problems with consistency, http://www.golftodaymagazine.com/view.php?I=133

http://www.blackoxideservice.com/ You can also have them flamed or blued. Only problem is that in all cases the finish is not very durable and is very likely to wear away...

I've always found the Slighngshots to be insanely easy to hit... Its horses for courses though. Go to a demo day/fitting session and see what works for you.