TropicalSandTrap

Yeah it’s the type of thing that creeps up during a round, and pretty sure it’s due to lack of body involvement in the swing. If I’m on a range and I do a couple of them I can usually fix it 5 minutes. Problem is 5 minutes on the range is 5-10 swings, and you don’t get that many swings on the course to correct it. If it lasts 4 swings your round just took a serious hit in those middle rounds and then confidence is shot and so on. I also have a tight lower back which adds to the problem. Not as flexible as I used to be. Just need some swing thoughts to help thought it. And I will try them on the range and if they work great and if they don’t, well thanks for trying.

Any thoughts or tips to think about when battling the tired all arms hook that can creep up? what happens a lot is I get a lazy swing and the arms race ahead of the body and I hit low hooks. On the range it doesn’t happen much. I hit balls a lot with a camera behind me and the range swing is good (plane, contact, dispersion are all fine for the most part). Most of the time on the course the swing is fine too, but then I hit these ruts. It really comes out with the driver, although the low trap draw can also come out with the mid and long irons (and of course fairway woods) It happens out on the course when I get a little timid at times, afraid of taking an aggressive swing at the ball for fear of a big mistake, or tired and trying to muscle the ball out there i can feel it happening when it does. I need a mental thought to help me get over it when it appears sometimes I thought of holding off a bit and supinating the left wrist, and this was a disaster (holding off and hitting way before the ball) i have tried to think of keeping that right elbow closer to the body but have really struggled with implementing that swing thought. This might help if I can get a better grasp of what this should feel like trying to think of firing my hips through or more body action hasn’t been a big success, but again I might need to just tune this swing though in a bit I generally play a right to left Shot with my common miss spot being low toe Thanks for the help I think something like this might help

Yeah that’s what I’m trying to find out. Guess im just looking for people’s opinions moreso than raw data. I still play the callaway x-18 irons and think they are fine. I would switch if I thought I was at a disadvantage with them. But I probably wouldn’t play a driver that old.

How significant is the difference between the generations from the original 2008 AP2 and the newer models? are the 2008 AP2 irons still of a comparable quality that one could still play them without significant disadvantage from the newer models in the line?

I have been working on this too I have found that with a flatter swing, I tend to reach around and have more of a trap draw or lower punch like trajectory. I have also found that when I stand further away from the ball I tend to flatten out the swin plane and reach more and toe hook or trap draw or whatever I have found that when I stand closer to the ball my plane is steeper but I also found that I get more upward trajectory and higher ball flight Dont know why or what the physics are behind it but it’s something I have been working on and this has been my observation

Interesting post. Seems to advocate round shoulders a bit? Lot of information in that post to digest.

Any tips? im 40 and have terrible posture. All bunches over. When I focus a lot on pulling he shoulders back it feels like I have too much weight on my heels and am falling back. Thanks

I have a dremel, but I have never really been very handy and have never actually used it. My concern is hat I will cut through it and the fabric will start fraying and just unravel and it will really mess up the bag.

It’s not a huge deal, but if I could just get one of he dividers out so I can fit all four wedges In one slot it would be perfect. I know it only takes a couple of seconds to get them in and out with the dividers, but if I could get one of the dividers out the bag would be perfect bag was a gift with a logo of a course I really like on it so I am going to stick with it.

I picked up a ping traverse cart bag. I really like it, but it has the 14 individual club slot dividers. Has anybody tried to remove the club slot dividers without ruinging the bag? I just want to remove two of the subdividers from the bottom area, not remove them all wondering how I can do that without causing damage I like to keep 4 wedges and a putter together and usually take them all up to the green/approach area when I am pitching or chipping (pelz 4x3 method). I would like just one large slot at the bottom instead of three slots where I have to separate the clubs and drop them in. Thanks for the tips.

I appreciate the feedback but am unsure where you are going with this. Do you feel that shaft makers are arbitrary with heir flex ratings? Or do you feel like they overstate or understate the flex? What do they gain by doing this? or is your view moreso that flex stiffness in general is an overrated measurement and the shaft makers exaggerate the impact of flex to help sell shafts? Is it usually a consistent type of miss? If so what was the miss?

So saevel, if I have the following 2 shafts, where can I find the specs on them and what do they mean? Driver: bassara e series 42 regular 3W: Fubuki Z65x5ct regular

100% get it but that's why I'm curious as to what specs a person should be on the lookout for. For example I read that torque is generally between 2 to 7. But it seems that regular and stiff flex from the same manufacturer can be in the 6 range so that doesn't seem to matter. Yeah mine said 4B2M. Not sure where to go from there.

thanks for the info. That's good to know. Im at that point where I could go stiff or regular (hit 8 iron from 150, 4H from 200), but I take the view of error on the side of a smooth swing. But every time I get a little wild with a hook or something I start second guessing whether a stiffer shaft would add to control. Head games more than anythiNg. I thought torque was more than anything the main component for stiff, and that is why I ha she visions of regular shafts flailing all over with a stiff shaft nice and controlled. But I see my driver shaft has almost the same torque whether it is stiff or regular, so no big deal I guess. Moving forward, the ease of callaway in just switching shafts out and they don't seem too expensive I wouldn't mind trying some others. What are some specs you might look for? I know that's a super loaded personal preference question, but hearing other people's preferences and why can be helpful. Thanks again. Good information. MY old 3W had a project X 5.5 shaft and I liked that one

What is the measurement or specification that actullay measures the flex stiffness? Or is it just a combination of all the specs and manufacturer decides what to label it?

Thanks for the info. I have a Bassara e 42 regular flex. I can't seem to tell the difference between that and the stiff flex. At first I thought it was the torque at 6 (with the assumption that closer to 2 would be stiffer), but the stiff has almost the same torque.

I understand that all manufacturers are different, etc... but im not sure what I should be looking for in the specs. Like I go to ebay for look for callaway optifit shafts and there are a ton of options for $40-$80. I try to research them and don't know what the specs even mean. And i I don't have access to a professional fitting with a launch monitor etc so that's not an option. Need to go the trial and error route.

Ok, I understand the difference between the shafts basics, but these days trying to look deeper into it is like reading an engineering book. Soft tip, stepped on, kick point, weight, torque Can somebody dumb it down for me. I am right on the edge of stiff and regular. My swing speed could allow me to go stiff, but I don't mind using regular and don't need to feed my ego with a stiff. But what are some of the specifics in a shaft that would impact whether a flex is a firmer regular or a softer stiff flex than others?

That's where I am finding myself too

I like the idea of which club is more versatile being the choice as off a clean lie I have similar results. Im intrigued by the idea of a 5W being easier to hit out of a hairy lie than a 3H. What's the rationale behind this view?

Why do so many pros play 5 woods? What is the advantage of them? I need to trim the bag down one club and the debate is the 5W or 3H to stay in the locker. i don't notice a huge difference (if any at all) between my 5W and 3H. Both get pretty good height. I think my dispersion with my 3H is a little tighter. I hit my 5W well, so it's not a matter of me not liking it What would the advantage to a 5W be?

In a tournament may the caddy do the ball marking for a player?

I think the problem is not enough time for the instructions. Go to a lesson for an hour, pick up a few things, try them on the range for a week while old habits slip in or you develop new flaws as you correct old ones, then go see the pro again next week for an hour and repeat. but now with swing apps like swing profile where you can stay in contact with your pro (if they are willing to do so) to give daily feedback after your daily range session lessons can become even more productive. They can identify if you are implementing the technique they taught last week or catch new bad habits as they develop. But going to one lesson and expecting a miracle would be like going to one piano lesson and not understanding why you can't play awesome after being at home practicing for a couple of weeks.

I went with the 816. $95 for a used one appearing to be in decent shape from photos. I have Adams 3H and 4H and like them a lot. Never even considered them for fairway woods