Pyranha

I'd say it's definitely worth taking a look at for sure. I've always been a mallet guy too (previous putter was a two ball), and the Kombi just felt SO 'right' from the get go. -C

Never got 'it' until yesterday, although I'd at least tried out every Scotty that came through my club's pro shop. When I checked in for my round yesterday though, the assistant pro hands me a newly arrived 35" Kombi that wasn't even priced yet. Off to the putting green, and wow.....just.....wow. The thing is so well balanced that it almost literally felt like it was swinging itself. Ok, wife's going to have a fit, but oh well, she'll live. Despite feeling like this was the one, wasn't really sure what to expect from my first round with a new putter. Shot 75 (low round of the year so far) with a 35' eagle putt and not a single 3 jack. Color me converted. All hail Scotty. -C

Hold on there guys....I've read club face not square, too upright, coming over the top etc. Those are faults that will cause a fade/slice, not a push, which is a shot that starts right of the intended target line and stays mostly straight. So to the OP, can you clarify for us exactly what result you're getting on these shots? Is the ball starting on line and moving right, or is it starting right of your intended line and staying there? Trust me, those are two completely separate issues with different causes. That said....my most common miss is a straight up push (no fade at all). It usually happens when I get too flat on the backswing and my upper body cannot catch up with my lower on the downswing. The club attacks too much from the inside and the ball starts well right of my intended line. -C

Been playing KZG blades for almost 3 full seasons now and LOVE them to death. I was fitted at Adro's Custom Golf in Rockville MD for the full set of irons, driver, and a 5 wood (didn't fit the 3 because I was very happy with my stock Sonartec). The whole process took about 3 hours, and the guys at Adro's are definitely very good at what they do. Obviously ymmv depending on your fitter. As for the sticks? I think they feel every bit as good as Mizuno's forgings, and just like Mizzys they feel soft as butter when struck pure (and they nick like butter when you hit a rock too). Definitely consider taking a look at KZG if you're looking to get fitted. -C

Couple of things: 1) Hard to tell without a down the line, but anyone else think the plane is a bit flat? 2) Compare the frames at 2, 3, and 4 seconds and look at your head position. Your head has drifted back enough that you can see a whole extra board on the fence. 3) As someone else mentioned your upper half started down a bit early. Maybe turn a bit more around the right leg instead of drifting back on to it. This is a big key for me...my ball striking is a LOT better when I concentrate on turning and not drifting back, and then driving the swing with my lower half. Just my 2c. -C

Want to walk more, but several of the places I play regularly require carts on weekends, so I also need a bag that is walk/cart friendly. I'm looking at: Sun Mountain MPB Sun Mountain Four 5 Nike Sasquatch Tour Anyone currently using any of these bags (or better yet, has used more than one of them) and can offer an opinion on weight, comfort, durability etc? Thanks! -C

Swing speeds go down markedly as the club in your hand gets shorter, but the shaft you get fitted to isn't all about swing speed. Tempo and how aggressively you transition from the top of the swing also play a large role. My average driver SS is 112 (measured by Adro's Custom Golf in Rockville MD) and my driver is a 905R w/Stiff Proforce V2. After fitting me the Adro's guys determined that rifle 5.5's were the best shaft for my irons despite 5.5 being somewhat 'soft' for someone with a relatively high SS. Anyway....definitely don't get trapped into thinking you HAVE to have stiff shafts in your irons just because you do in your driver. Get fit professionally and trust the judgement of your fitter. -C

I don't use iron covers any more because I was too lazy to remove them all after a round, dry the clubs thoroughly,and then replace all the covers. The result was rust on my clubs, so I just ditched the covers which resolved the problem. The argument for covering woods but not irons is less (for me anyway) to protect the heads of the woods and more to protect the shafts from having iron heads banging around against them. Several of the guys I play with don't use the headcovers for their woods, and the shafts all look like someone took a knife to them. One guy has actually broken the heads off of two separate drivers (shafts snapped just a bit above the hosel....coincidentally right where all the kicks from the irons were) and still doesn't understand why I think he should cover his woods after every shot..... -C

Get fitted. My 6i speed is very close to yours, but my fitter put me in 5.5's. Swing speed isn't the only variable in determining shaft stiffness....tempo also has a large bearing on what shaft will work best for you. My tempo is relatively slow and my transition down from the top is not sharp/aggressive, so the softer flex works fine for me. -C

Go for it. I had a 35" 2ball cut down to 33" and a Tiger Shark (very oversized) grip installed. Been playing it for about a year with no regrets at all. -C

http://www.shop.com/Bridgestone_J36_...l?sourceid=298 Bridgestone makes some great clubs, but ya think Golfio is being a TAD greedy? -C

I second the FJ Contours. I own a pair of Ecco's and a pair of Contours, and the FJ's are definitely the more comfortable of the two. The Ecco's are constructed better and IMO they look better, but as far as comfort goes the FJ's win hands down. -C

4 at the moment, counting my PW. They are: 48 KZG forged blade 54/10 Vokey bent to 52/08 56/10 Mizuno MP-T 60/04 Vokey