Another9

To consistently break 80! How? Do the math. By concentrating on the short game, specifically 75 yards and in. Also, by doing something I have needed to do for a while, improve my putting, especially lag putting and five to ten foot putts. You have no idea how many strokes I've left out there because of these three areas of the game! Maybe you do! Anyway, when you break it down, during a normal 18 hole round about 35 strokes are made while driving, hitting second shots on par 5's, and/or approaching the green with mid to long irons. If you shoot 85, then 50 strokes are attributable to the short game and putting. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out where the potential to save a few strokes lies. I'm not pontificating, I am driving the obvious into my own brain! It won't be hard to get in some practice time because where I practice the loneliest part of the place is the short game area. Everyone seems to be fixated on banging balls. Good luck with that!

Different strokes I guess (pun intended). I have tried hybrids and I never warmed up to them. I just couldn't hit them as well as the irons. Until recently, I was fine down to the 4 iron. One day that ended and I remembered a friend years ago telling me about the wonders of a 7 wood. I figured what the heck and I found a Ping G25 7 wood on eBay in great condition. Wow! I should have done it years ago! My 7 wood is money, and a Ping G25 5 wood has also made its way into my bag.

Hello, This is my first post so be gentle. Are there any members out there that switched from the TaylorMade M1 to the M3? If so, I have a question about the setup for your M3. I have been playing the TaylorMade M1 Driver (2017 version) for a couple of years. I have really come to appreciate what this driver has done for my game. After my fitting, the settings recommended for me were the movable weights on draw/high, and the hosel setting on higher. With these settings I was able to maximize my distance and accuracy hitting drives of about 260 to 270 with a straight ball flight or a slight draw. Not bad for 58. Like any other golfer, two years later I crave more, and because we all know that it is the arrow that counts, I recently spotted a new M3 driver head at a great price and I ordered it. I will be using the same shaft as I did for the M1, my trusty Project X which I love, but the M3 has a few "upgrades" to include twist face technology and a different Y track system for the weights rather than the T track on the M1. Given the settings that worked for my M1, I assume that I should set the M3 at draw with the second weight near the back to increase the trajectory, and the hosel on higher to close the clubface a bit. This seems to mirror the settings I had on the M1. My question for those who may have switched from the M1 to the M3 is, did you find that the settings changed for you, or where they pretty consistent with the settings for your M1? Also, did the twist face tech make a difference? I have read both very positive reviews on twist face, and negative reviews about its effectiveness. Thanks!