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I have the exact same problem. I tend to die the ball into the hole, and the "lumpy doughnut" -- as Pelz calls it -- around the hole is a nightmare on softer, more heavily-played greens. Alas, I don't think there is a technology solution. Putting a good roll on the ball is putting a good roll on the ball. Putters that aim (or claim) to put more forward spin on the ball, like Yes! and Guerin Rife Putters, might theoretically help, as might high MOI putters that reduce sidespin, but there's a slope there we just have to cope with. Dave Pelz himself didn't offer up any solutions, as I recall. I usually play less break and more pace on slower public greens to reduce the influence of such inconsistencies. Good luck!

I suppose I'd suggest going with the best bounce for the bunkers you normally play -- the fluffier the sand, the more bounce you need to keep the club from digging in. Unless you play *really* tight, firm courses it's probably easier to get away with a bit of extra bounce in the fairway than not enough in the sand. I would also suggest keeping your 56 in the bag and adding an additional, lower-bounce lob wedge... for mid- to high-handicappers like us, I think that simplifying the execution of shots under 100 yards or so is one of the best equipment decisions to help lower scores. IMHO, the difference between a 5 wood and 21 deg. hybrid doesn't outweigh the benefits of narrower gaps between clubs and more straight-forward options around the green

I have both the FTX and the Edge Pro (which is a lot like the plus) and indeed, the major difference is that in the FTX, the E(PW) - 8 are pure musclebacks with progressive cavities from 7 to the 3 iron. Even in the longer irons, the FTX have thinner toplines, narrower soles and what seems to be a bit less offset, though there's minimal offset in both. I switched to the FTX last year and love them... I just bought another brand-new set. The Plus is going to be a little more forgiving, though I find that even the FTX lets me get away with some pretty bad swings with just a bit of distance loss most of the time. Both should give you plenty of feedback on mis-hits and I've never hit *anything* that feels as good as the Hogans on pure shots. The FTX are definitely a bit sweeter and easier to control trajectory on. Both are beautiful to look at in the bag and at address. If you can, spend a bit of time with your friends 8 iron and 5 iron... they'll probably play the most different from the Plus. Good luck with the decision, let us know how it turns out.

Moved pics to another host, previous posts deleted. (joshtpa said that it was tough, but seemed to be the real deal, for plot continuity...) New H4 New H4 Shaft (no GDI logo) Old H3 Shaft

Thanks, I think so too. If I didn't have another one sitting right here, I wouldn't even think about it. I'm still hoping someone else chimes in with a legit one the doesn't have the Graphite Design logo on the shaft, but I'm not going to sweat it... at least not until I take it to the range and see how it works :)

From what I've seen, I second the recommendation to go with "name brand" clubs over copies. For huge markdowns (or older clubs in my case) I've had great luck with http://www.rockbottomgolf.com . Good luck with your search!

I just picked up another Bobby Jones hybrid (H4, new) on ebay, and there are a few *slightly* less-than-perfect details that have me wondering just a little a bit if maybe it's a fake... I bought from a well-rated seller, with tons of positive feedback at a price that was good but not "too good to be true". I only have my other one to compare it too (a few years old now) and the only major difference is that it doesn't say "Graphite Design" on the shaft. Anyone else have one like this?

Looks like Callaway has finally dropped prices on the FT-5 ($299), FT-i ($399) and even the IMIX clubs. All the major retailers seem to have the new prices if you're in the market. Another two days on their gas card promo too, so you could get an FT-5 for $225.

For me, a knockdown shot and punch shot are two similar but different things. The super-low shot to keep the ball under trees -- where I find myself with alarming regularity -- or out of really strong wind, I normally think of as a punch shot. I think of a knockdown shot as a low-mid trajectory shot that I play from the tee or fairway either to keep the ball from ballooning into the wind or to control distance. I tend to hit knockdowns with short to mid irons and punch it with longer irons or a 3 wood. For both, the goal is to reduce loft and backspin. I put the ball back in my stance, close the clubface a bit, shift a little extra weight to my front foot and make a half to 3/4 swing without much hand-action or hit at the bottom. The follow-through stays low and matches the length of my backswing. In a lot of ways they feel like big versions of a chip shot. The punch shot exaggerates all of the deloft/no spin parts of the swing, while I usually put enough spin on a knockdown to check after the first hop or two. Definitely something you want to work out at the range first, it's really important to put a smooth swing on it to keep it online and to avoid additional backspin that will shoot the ball up.

I faced the same issue, but with a Mini in NYC. In case you can't fit them in the trunk without folding down the seats, I was able to buy an after-market luggage cover that velcros on to the rear window sill (and the tiny cover over the tiny trunk space). End result: nothing to see at all, with two bags or one and a pull cart. I can't seem to find the place online anymore, but I'll snap some pics next time I have my clubs in the car.

I love the TaylorMade rac TP wedges. (I guess now they're the "Z TP" wedges.) Classic look at address, nice feel and just the right amount of spin for me. The stop on a dime but don't shred my golf balls. Worth putting on the list if you're trying things out.

I've always played the gap wedge from my iron set... but I'm hitting the TaylorMade wedges really well. Since I just replaced my irons (same model, but new) I'll probably pick up the TM gap wedge instead. The rac TP wedges are great, worth checking out if you want to stick with the same brand.

I doubt the performance gain advertised, but do love these tees. I've *never* broken one but they do tend to get lost from time to time (I only use them with the driver... discarded tees for irons). I'll go weeks or months with a single tee in my pocket. No damage or scrapes to the black underside of my HiBore. Worth a try.

Amen. Just bought a brand new set to replace my last ones. Gorgeous. Oh, and quite nice to hit :)

Anything with the Woode divider at the top. I have an Ogio - Edge, I think, and Callaway has some bags with it too. Keeps things nicely in place. I'm thinking about picking up a lighter model this year...

I second that. I play both the 3w and 3hybrid and love them. Classic look and great performers -- solid out of the rough as well. Definitely worth putting on the demo list if you're looking for new clubs.

I have a slightly different model ogio and love it. Works well but I most like the woode divider system which keeps clubs where they should be, nice putter well, etc. Would definitely get another one. FYI, the edge seems to be on sale (plus extra memorial day discount) at tgw.

There's a review (and lots of comments) at http://thesandtrap.com/equipment/clu..._putter_review Seems as if people either love it or hate it.

Lie angle should have no meaningful impact on whether you hit the ball off the center or the heel. It can, however effect the direction of your shots . I wouldn't worry at all about the extra degree unless you clear up your contact issues and see balls going consistently to the right. A change in shaft length, or your swing/setup are more likely to be causing your visitation of the "lateral". (I've hit too many of the things to dare utter the s-word). As with most things in golf, this is an affliction that can be counter-intuitively be caused by standing too *far* from the ball and reaching to get back to it. It's helped me in the past to make a number of smooth practice swings at the range (with a long iron across my toes) and note carefully where I'm making impact. I then put a ball on that spot and try to make the same smooth swing to the same spot. It often takes a bit to get used to new irons, and you may have something different going on, but it's probably not the lie angle. Hope you figure it out soon.

I think that the answer is "yes" on replacing it and cleaning it. Equity and being entitled to the lie you got when your shot finished seem to apply, though I couldn't spot a decision that addresses this specific condition... The separated divot seems to be an outside agency in this situation -- though it's a loose impediment when at rest. From http://www.usga.org/playing/rules/rules_of_golf.html :

It is more important to be decisive than to be correct when preparing to play any golf shot, particularly a putt. - Bob Rotella When I ask you to take an aspirin, please don't take the whole bottle. - Harvey Penick on integrating swing changes And pretty much every golfer/writer has shared the same directive to "play to a specific target". Mr. Penick says it best: Take dead aim.

I keep my scores in excel... so I did a little investigating. I isolated all of my scores from this year and last where I shot 90 or better and kept track of GIR. Over 22 rounds, the difference between the formula and my actual score was an average of just 0.13 strokes higher. [ average ( 95-GIR*2 - score) ] There were quite a few times that the formula was 6 higher or 6 lower for individual scores. The biggest discrepancy was 8 strokes, I still can't remember how I shot an 83 hitting just 2 greens :) Taken in aggregate [ (95-average GIR * 2) - average score ] the formula was 1.14 strokes higher than my actual average for the same rounds. Pretty close either way, and since the author presents a similar argument in this other article , I'm sticking with 8 (44%) as my target for GIR.

The size of your hands also seems to have a bit to do with which grip is "most likely" to work best. I've read (and found for myself) that an interlocking grip generally works better than overlapping/Vardon for those of us with smaller hands.

I second the post above that you don't have to take a huge divot to be a great ball-striker. If you are happy with the results of your shots -- and are hitting the ball consistently -- then there's no reason to make changes just to produce a divot. That said, for most people a divot is a natural result of solid fundamentals. There are great pros who take little to no turf when they strike it but most people I play with who don't are coming up out of the shot, casting from the top or decelerating into impact and flipping their hands to "scoop" loft onto the ball. When I'm hitting 'em well, a pretty high trajectory with a slight draw, I'll usually end up with a long but shallow divot pointing just right of the target line. There a whole host of things that happen in the swing and setup that effect the size of your divot but as Jack says it's all about "applying the clubhead to the ball". If you stay down through the shot and work to hit down on the ball (hands leading the clubhead through impact) you'll feel and hear the difference, even on practice mats. Since you're taking no divot now, it may help to move the ball back in your stance a bit. I find it's easier to try out things like this with a 3/4 swing to get the feel of it. Good luck and have fun! PS: Definitely do not hit down on the ball with the driver in normal conditions. They're designed to provide maximum distance with a slightly ascending or level path into the ball.

There's a great comparison of the Project X and other iron shafts in this post by gas_can. He'd seem to suggest 5.5 is most like DG S300. I'd suggest trying them out if you can, they definitely have a different feel and trajectory (which didn't suit me at all when I demoed them.)