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Not to be rude...but as a 25 handicap player, it's your swing path..You must be swinging on an outside to inside path. The 3wood is one of the most difficult clubs to hit...it will expose all swing flaws. Here's a quick suggestion/reminder. You still need to hit down on a 3-wood. Especially off the deck! Don't be afraid to take a divot with that club! Obviously nothing like an iron, but even the pros have a neg attack angle into a 3wood (especially off the deck). Keep at it...the club is fine!

That's surprising that the PX shaft felt "whippy" with an active kick point given that it's heavier and stiffer than your current shaft. Those two heads are very different too...Swingweight could have been better suited to your swing? I do agree with you though...I hate stiff shafts that have a "dead" feeling to them.

I haven't hit them...but have handled them. To be perfectly honest...they are nearly identical to the 712's...nearly all of the 714's are super similar to the 712's. As for the CB's in particular...they are a slight cavity backed blade. Not much has or will change in this type of club. They are awesome clubs...

I sharped my wedges at least once or twice per season. I touch up my irons once a year as well. The difference is remarkable. Get yourself one of those tools and keep your grooves sharp. Believe me...it's easy to maintain sharp grooves more frequently than to sharpen very dull & ragged grooves every two or three years.

I struggle with this too. I happen to have the same standard ball flight...and struggle with hitting a controlled fade. You must be a decent player if you are hitting consistent draws! So my advice would be twofold. First, work on fading the ball on the range. What I do is hit a standard draw then try to hit a fade...alternate back and forth...don't just pound out 50 fades in a row. This will help you on the course....where you don't hit fades regularly. Part of hitting a good fade is starting the ball left. This will take some alignment and visualization changes....as you are used to starting the ball right. This is my biggest issue...I always start my cut shots too far right!!!! Secondly, practice hitting cuts on the course. Use your casual weekend matches at first...build up your confidence. A fade is a tough shot to control without loosing distance right (too much side spin) and without straight pulling it left! Best of luck....

Not worth it...very little changed between the 910 and 913.

I just replaced my 3-iron with a 910h 19 deg hybrid. So far I love it. Let's face it...even if you are a good long iron player...hitting 3-irons out of varied lies is not easy. I think the hybrid plays easier out of the rough and off a tee. I do not hit the ball particularly high...so controlling the roll on a 3-iron isn't easy. The hybrid definitely lands a bit softer. Off a tee I'm getting something like 225yds and off the ground somewhere around 215-220. I wouldn't call the 910 / 913 particularly forgiving...but the club communicates the quality of your strike very nicely and the feel is excellent. Best of luck...

I like choking down and swinging normally. A good agressive move through the ball will produce a similar flight and spin as a normal shot. Taking a longer club and swinging easier just produces a flatter flight with less spin. This means less control.

Totally depends on your current swing path and ball flight.

Sorry, man...sold them a week or two ago.

Clearwaterms said it quite well. It's hard for someone on the internet to recommend a shaft flex for you...there are just too many variables. Assuming that you were swinging a 6 or 5 iron at the golf shop...an 88 mph swing speed is pretty fast. I would think a stiffer shaft in your irons would be the right choice. For comparison, I swing my 6 iron about 86 mph and use DG S300 shafts. I feel like I'm right on the edge between regular and stiff shafts...and it really depends on the shaft manufacturer. For example, I can swing the DG S300's well but struggle to properly load a PX6.0. I prefer the lower flight, less ballooning and better shot dispersion I get with the stiff shafts...but I could probably play a regular flex without too much issue. Your driver swing speed of 96mph isn't all that high...in fact I would expect it to be higher if you iron SS is in the upper 80's.

Hey guys, this is my first video post. I'm currently a 9 hdcp golfer and I've made some big swing changes in the offseason. I'd like to get a few sets of eyes on my swing to help further. My old swing was VERY flat and relied so heavily on perfect timing which lead to very inconsistent contact. I used to hit a huge push draw and my miss was two ways...either a hook or a block/push. My strikes were Almost always towards the toe of the club. This winter I have worked on taking some of the flatness out of my swing. My face contact has improved dramatically....hitting the center of the club face much more regularly. My ball flight has changed to more of a straight ball...sometimes is draws slightly and sometimes it cuts a bit. Here's a recent DTL video with a 5-iron. http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee259/ninety15oh/059B7E5E-A49E-4F0F-BA89-5B20908F13EE-230-00000012DCCEA99E_zps5292c4b6.mp4

Tigers rehearsal swings look way over the top. He is fighting off the pull hook. Tigers path during an actual swing is not nearly as exaggerated as in his rehearsal swings.

I agree with the comment that changing your grip is not a viable method. I feel like this changes too much in your mechanics. If you are talking about controlling slight draws and fades...I don't do too much different. I generally use a shorter backswing and faster body rotation to hit a little fade. I will consciously hold off the release a little to prevent the pull. To hit little draws (natural shot shape for me) I make a bigger shoulder turn with my hands slightly deeper and make a slower body rotation through the ball. Full release on draws. To really hook or slice one...I will manipulate the club face open or closed and make more exaggerated inside out or outside in swings.

Price reduced to $150.

If your shots currently start left of the target then your club face is already closed to your target. It's still open to your path whic is obviously outside to inside (over the top). A draw biased club will not help you. If you we're hitting a push fade/slice...it would be a different story. But you are doing a decent job squaring the club face. Just need to work on your swing path.

What's your current ball flight. And be specific...do they start left of you target and fade/slice back to the right? This will let us know of a draw bias club will help or hurt.

Lessons shouldn't be focused on a particular type of club. A good teacher will work on your technique and mechanics. Good technique and mechanics can be applied to any club. I suggest you take the lessons.

Yes...this does seem a little low. My 9i goes about 140-145 and my driver SS is 103-105 with a nice agressive swing. As you mentioned....i can swing a few mph faster but the control and balance go out the window.

the swing can only be as wide as you left arm is long. So as long as you keep the left arm as straight as possible, you are maximizing the width of your swing.

You all raise good points and I understand golf isn't this simple. I just fundamentally disagree with the notion that faster swing speeds equate to better accuracy. Better swing fundamentals and kinematic sequencing will naturally lead to better accuracy. But to say that higher swing speeds produce more accurate golf shots is misleading. People already put too much emphasis on distance....that's not the biggest reason why low index players are so good.

Didn't know there was more than one Pythagorean Theorem. Nor did I say that golf was purely about geometry. My point is that simply increasing your swing speed will not increase your accuracy. In fact...it will hurt it. This is indisputable. I do agree with you that better players have better accuracy...although it seems stupid to have to mention that. I also agree that better players have higher swing speeds. However, higher swing speeds does not guarantee better accuracy. In most cases it's true...but swing speed is not the direct cause. Your twisting this up...for no apparent gain to the thread.

That's completely unrelated. I don't disagree...but the fact is...the farther you hit the ball...the farther offline it has the opportunity to go. End of story, back on topic.

Take it to the limits, man. Say I hit a 1 yard long drive and push it badly to the right. It can't be that far off line. But if I hit a 300 yard drive that I push to the right just as badly...that ball will be MUCH farther offline.

This is off topic and rediculous. This is a question of SIMPLE geometry. We are speaking in generalities so please stop providing specific examples that try to prove your point. Go look up the Pythagorean Theorem...this proves my point. If two people hit a drive where their club face is closed 2* to their path....identical swings and contact in every way...then the longer hitter will be further offline. This is indisputable....I really don't see how you can argue this.