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Th[quote name="Golfingdad" url="/t/60584/how-do-you-record-your-swing#post_806971"]I have found a very simple solution: I take my stand bag and put it where I want to set up the camera, then slide the alignment rod vertically through all of the clubs (not into the bag, just straight vertically to the ground between the stand legs) and then just take my towel and wrap it loosely wround the rod by the clubheads. That actually works better even if you have grass to stick the rod into because then the rod is not at the mercy of a 2 mph breeze that way. It stays steady the whole time. [/quote] Thank you! Great idea.

What about a base mount for those of us that have to hit off of mats?

If that's the case then great! I'm fully behind this. I for one, hate being THAT guy who's holding everyone up. If I'm having a bad hole and it's getting to be an issue, I'll pick up... I'm not playing for a Green Jacket so it's no big deal. Plus, I find it less fun having a group breathing down your neck the entire time.

I agree totally with these findings, however I'm skeptical that any brochure or "education" on improving pace of play will move the needle much, if at all. Once a person is out on the course, it's usually just them and at most three other people (probably friends). I think the "I paid good money for this round so I'm not gonna be rushed" mentality sets in and there are very few people in the immediate vicinity who are going to challenge it or confront the slow person (or group) since it will likely cause a scene. The only thing that can really make a difference is a greater marshal presense on the course. I'm not suggesting one per hole - it would be more big brother-like then - but more than the usual one or two. If a group or person is identified as being slow, the marshalls need to strictly enforce pace-of-play, either by following along with that group until they are playing faster, or by kicking them off the course if they don't listen. IMO, the only way to truly make people play faster is to provide an incentive... in this case a negative incentive. If they play slow, their going to have a marshall audience watching them annoyingly until they speed up, or their going to get flat tossed-out.

Well if that's the case, I envy you... I feel like putting is the easiest thing to get better at if you just practice a lot. I actually putt well for someone who shoots low 90's... I average 34 putts per round, which is just a hair under 2 per hole... for me, if I'm two putting, I'm happy b/c my GIR could really use some work. I bought that iPing app and it works really well. Gives you real time feed back.

Not to be THAT guy, but if you're a 15 hcp, you're probably not making solid and consistent contact every time... but I get your point. The toughest for me was the transition from backswing to downswing. Starting the downswing with the lower body and not the shoulders/arms was (is) toughest for me. Trying to avoid swaying forward and coming over-the-top was tough. The swing though that finally did it for me was to remind myself to exaggerate (in my mind) how slow i made the transition. By doing this, I ended up not with a "slow" transition, but a "smooth" transition that allowed my lower body to start first, thus dropping me into the slot. It's still a work in progress tho... as I'm sure it always will be! Thus is golf... that one solid strike that puts the ball exactly where you planned keeps you coming back.

I took warrior up on their deal where all you had to do was pay $19 shipping and they'd send a free hybrid. They obv tried to sell me more clubs when i called on the offer, but caved quick when I told them I wasn't interested. The hybrid was a 19* (I had a choice) w/ a no name S flex shaft. To be totally honest w everyone, it's a great club... One of the ones I hit best. And it was essential free w no strings attached. This is NOT the same Warrior that makes Lacrosse equipment. Have nothing bad to say abt them... If you're looking for low cost, imitation clubs that are pretty good quality, I'd say give them a shot.

And this is why golf is a dying sport. Remember when some club asked Rickie Fowler to turn his hat around when he was doing interviews after his round? Are you serious?! I know it's a private club with the right to make its own ruls and most people couldn't play there anyway, but still.

First of all, I wasn't the one asking the question... I was providing feedback. Second, if I wanted to lie, I wouldnt say I was a 20 handicap in my profile. Thirdly, I do hit my driver 300+ pretty straight when struck well. My point was that WHEN I strike my driver and irons flush w an ideal swing, the reg flex in my irons promotes a right to left ball flight that doesn't happen w my stiff flex driver.

First of all, I wasn't the one asking the question... I was providing feedback. Second, if I wanted to lie, I wouldnt say I was a 20 handicap in my profile. Thirdly, I do hit my driver 300+ pretty straight when struck well. My point was that WHEN I strike my driver and irons flush w an ideal swing, the reg flex in my irons promotes a right to left ball flight that doesn't happen w my stiff flex driver.

I see the affect if different shaft flexes every time I play because my bag is a hodge-podge of different clubs. I still have the irons from my first "all-inclusive" set I got at Dicks in 2005... Don't laugh... Hahah... Which have reg flex graphite. As I got better and my swing became more consistent, I started to notice that all my irons would draw-hook if hit square. I have a nicer Cleveland driver with a stiff flex shaft... And I hit my driver 300+ pretty straight. I broke my old 7-iron and replaced it with a Ping that has a steel stiff shaft, and that's the only iron I don't draw-hook.... Hmmmmm. If you have a swing speed of 100+ you will need stiff shafts to keep the club face from closing prematurely at impact.

I agree totally on the putter... one of the best i've ever played with (and it was $80!). I'm not sure how differenlty the fat grip will work on the mallet style, but I would certainly recommend the SuperStroke Slim Lite (55g) over just the Slim... the weight distribution is a real issue with a 130g grip. I honestly suggest that if you love the feel of the putter as it is now, don't switch to one of these fat grips, unless you are able to test them out legitimatly b4 buying. I really liked the feeling of the face insert on the Cleve Bronze prior to the fat grip and now b/c of the thickness of it, I don't get that great feel anymore.

I see they now make a SuperStroke Slim Lite grip that's the same size as mine, but only 55g. That would def help the weight distribution issue, but im not sure whether that's the main problem. I'm concerned that the sheer thickness of the grip reduces the feedback i get on puts, making it difficult to judge distance consistantly. It might just be that the Cleveland classic 1 bronze putter just doesn't work well with a fat grip...

I tried one of these grips on a demo club at Golf Galaxy this past winter and fell in love with the way it helps reduce wrist movement during the stroke (i assumed this was a big problem in my game). I purchased a new Cleveland Bronze blade putter (which I also loved) and promptly had a SuperStroke Slim grip put on. I have played about 15 rounds with this putter and haven't noticed any real improvment (i might be worse). Because the Bronze putter has a soft(er) face insert, it seems like the fatter grip eliminates a lot of the feel and feedback I get on putts making it harder to judge distance. Also, it seems like with a blade putter (inherently lighter than mallet style) the large grip causes it to feel even lighter and less pedulum-like, as the weight feels spread out thru the entire club. This makes a smooth back-and-forth stroke tougher regarless of the lack of wrist movement. This might all just be in my imagination, since I haven't been putting particularly well, but i remember really liking the feel of the Bronze putter in the shop and not getting that same feeling after installing the new grip. That being said, I never actually played with the new putter b4 installing the new grip (it was winter and this was an xmas gift) so I have nothing to compare it to (the putting i did on the perfectly flat, synthetic surface in the Golf Galaxy hardly qualifies as "real" putting). Q1: Has anyone else had this issue? Is it just in my head? Q2: Is it possible to have a SuperStroke Slim grip removed w/o destroying it (like they did my original cleveland grip)? Thanks!!

I'm gonna be honest here, there is really no need to buy this book. As one of the other posters already pointed out, the theory proposed is simple and the book gets repetitive, probably b/c it is so simple and he needed to fill pages. That being the theory in the book is VERY EFFECTIVE. I went to a local B&N; and skimmed the book in about 20 min. Maybe this isn't the morally right thing to do, but I find it ridiculous to pay $14 for a small book that repeats the same thing over and over again. The book is accompanied by a CD that has videos and comes with a timer that beeps at the corresponding intervals in the Tour Tempo ratios for practice purposes, but you can download the Tour Tempo app to you smartphone for the same cost as the book (it seems like all your paying for with the book is the CD). In addition, it is smarter to simply skim the book and take out all pointers and then purchase the app for $14. You need the app more than the CD anyway b/c how many people want to lug a laptop to the range just so you can hear beeps? As you have to purchase the app seperatly from the book, the actual cost of the book jumps to $28 - a total rip off if you ask me. So to those of you who want to know the main gist of what the book says, here are my notes: - The three common Pro swing ratios: 21/7, 24/8, 27/9, with the first # corresponding to the number of frames (video) it takes to get from address to the top of backswing and the second # corresponding to the number of frames it takes to get from the top of the backswing thru contact. Each frame equals approx. 0.033s (ex. the 24/8 ratio = approx. 1.05s in total swing time... you can do the math for the others). Notice that each ratio is 3/1? This is the "Tour Tempo" the author is talking about. - The three drills to practice to maintain the right fundementals throughout the Tour Tempo swing: 1. Maintain a "Y" shape at address. This means that if you drew a line straight down from the bottom of your hands at address, your arms would make a "Y" shape. (Duh). 2. Form an "L" shape at the top of your backswing. This means that your wrists should bend so as to allow the shaft to be perpendicular with angle of your left arm (for a righty) which maintains its straightness throughout the swing. 3. Maintain the "Power Angle" throughout the downswing. Once you have made the "L" at the top of your backswing (as noted in drill #2 above), it is important to maintain this right angle all the way through your downswing until right before you make contact. When looking at video of your downswing, at any particular frame you should still see the semblance of the L you formed at the top of your backswing (download swingreader app - free). That's it! Now make sure you at least download the $14 Tour Tempo app for you phone so the author get his due. HOPE THIS HELPED!