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Posted
Hello everyone, I am new to this site and have seen some great posts by others so hopefully someone can help me out. I have been golfing (seriously) for about a year now in total. I played when I was younger and took lessons, but i was young and did not get into the sport. After picking it back up at the end of last summer, I bought a top flite starter set which has served me well. I played a fair amount of rounds last fall and this spring/summer I've played at least once or twice a week plus practice at the range. I would say I'm a high handicapper, shooting around 100 or so. I've slowly been accumulating nicer clubs. I hated the driver/fairways in my set so I picked up nicer ones (callaway razr x black 10.5 stiff and taylormade burner 2.0 stiff). My putting was terrible so I also grabbed a odyssey two ball putter and I have been able to control my putting speed. Most recently I went out and bought taylormade burner 2.0 irons 4-gw (steel with stiff flex) and at first loved them, but they are a lot longer and stiffer and have had trouble with them besides maybe off the tee. I took them out of my bag because and went back to my old irons and love them. My only issue is the gap between my 3 wood and my first iron which is a 6. I'm thinking of adding a 5 wood in. I wanted to give as much info on my game as possible so I could get an honest opinion on a new set of irons I want to get. I have had my eye on mizuno jpx 825 irons. I am thinking of getting them in regular flex (that's what my Top flite irons are) but I also want to get them fitted to me. If I buy these irons and decide I want to get them fitted after using them, is this possible? Or do you have to buy them new to get fitted? Also would it make sense to get my drivers etc fitted as well? Are these irons too thin for my game? Is it common to have stiff flex drivers and regular flex irons? Would it make more sense for me to bridge the gap with a 5 wood and improve my game before spending over $500 bucks on a new iron set? Also since my swing is not as consistent, should I wait on getting fitted until my swing is more consistent? Thanks!

Posted

If you're a year back into the game and still shooting 100, it might be time to take a couple of lessons (followed by practice!)  and get your swing stabilized. A good teaching pro could help you decide what was swing flaw, and what was "the wrong equipment. Then, you could get a fitting for clubs.

As for shaft flex irons vs. woods, there's different ways to look at this. Back in the 1970s, we had a "rule of thumb" for players on the line between R and S flex: stiff for irons (control) and regular for woods (distance).

But then, last year I run into a 63-year golf course pro that has stiff for Driver, FWs and 3i, but regular for all else. He has a very smooth swing, and says the shafts on the longer clubs flex more, and need a bit more control.

Basically, go with what works on the flex thing.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
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Posted

First, I would agree (always) with the suggestion to get some lessons if you haven't been doing so.  Then, before you buy any sort of clubs you need to get settled on what shaft flex you need.  This is largely determined by swing speed, but a fitting should tell you that along with other critical info like lie angle and whether you may need clubs a bit longer or shorter than standard.  The pro you use for lessons may well be able to help you with this and if there's a charge it is probably worth it.  Otherwise, I would think that you could at least settle the shaft flex questions by demoing some clubs at a retailer with a launch monitor (Edwin Watts, Golfsmith, Dicks, etc. etc.) and simply asking the sales clerk what you need.  It's not as sexy to have R-flex shafts, but hitting the ball well is sorta sexy.

If you are talking about the regular Mizuno JPX 825 irons, I would think that was a good option.  I've never hit them, but they are real solid game improvement clubs, which is what you want.  The forged Pro version is supposed to be very nice, but won't be as easy to hit.  The idea is to make it easier.  If you are talking Mizuno, I have heard they have a really super shaft selection tool that their authorized fitters use.  Seeking that out might be a good idea.  Having the right shafts really makes a difference.

Driver: Titleist 913 D2 10.5*, Aldila RIP Phenom 50

Fairway 1: Titleist 913F, 17*, Titleist Bassara W55

Fairway 2: Titleist 913F, 21*, Titleist Bassara W55

Irons: Titleist AP1 714 5-PW, Aerotech Steelfiber i95

Wedges: SCOR 4161 48/52/56/60, Genius 9

Grips: GolfPride New Decade Red Mid-size on all of the above.

Putter: Scotty Cameron Newport 2 - Super Stroke Slim 3.0


Posted
If you're a year back into the game and still shooting 100, it might be time to take a couple of lessons (followed by practice!)  and get your swing stabilized. A good teaching pro could help you decide what was swing flaw, and what was "the wrong equipment. Then, you could get a fitting for clubs. As for shaft flex irons vs. woods, there's different ways to look at this. Back in the 1970s, we had a "rule of thumb" for players on the line between R and S flex: stiff for irons (control) and regular for woods (distance). But then, last year I run into a 63-year golf course pro that has stiff for Driver, FWs and 3i, but regular for all else. He has a very smooth swing, and says the shafts on the longer clubs flex more, and need a bit more control. Basically, go with what works on the flex thing.

It was weird, I really thought I needed stiff flex when I bought those burner 2.0 Irons. I didn't really get fitted or anything on them, nor did I get to check my swing speed. However, I think I tend to swing my drivers a lot faster and my irons slower for accuracy. When trying to hit my burner 2.0, i would have to kill it and off the turf a lot of the times it wouldn't get up in the air like it should. I know of a good pro around my area that my buddy recommended, so I will def take some lessons before getting fitted. Thanks


Posted
First, I would agree (always) with the suggestion to get some lessons if you haven't been doing so.  Then, before you buy any sort of clubs you need to get settled on what shaft flex you need.  This is largely determined by swing speed, but a fitting should tell you that along with other critical info like lie angle and whether you may need clubs a bit longer or shorter than standard.  The pro you use for lessons may well be able to help you with this and if there's a charge it is probably worth it.  Otherwise, I would think that you could at least settle the shaft flex questions by demoing some clubs at a retailer with a launch monitor (Edwin Watts, Golfsmith, Dicks, etc. etc.) and simply asking the sales clerk what you need.  It's not as sexy to have R-flex shafts, but hitting the ball well is sorta sexy. If you are talking about the regular Mizuno JPX 825 irons, I would think that was a good option.  I've never hit them, but they are real solid game improvement clubs, which is what you want.  The forged Pro version is supposed to be very nice, but won't be as easy to hit.  The idea is to make it easier.  If you are talking Mizuno, I have heard they have a really super shaft selection tool that their authorized fitters use.  Seeking that out might be a good idea.  Having the right shafts really makes a difference.

I have hit them before (mizuno jpx 825 game improvement) at a golfer warehouse recently and liked them. I believe they were regular flex but I was in a rush so I didn't get much of a chance to talk to anyone. Also I believe I can get my local pro to do the fitting for me. My question is can I get my clubs fitted after I buy them and use them?Or is the fitting process only for Buying new clubs? Also my local golfers warehouse doesn't have a mizuno fitting/monitor, is establishing the flex easy to do without using the shaft selection tool? Thanks for the help so far!


Posted

I believe the Mizuno shaft selection tool thingie is for selection among custom shaft options, optimum kick points and so forth.  Required shaft flex should be pretty straight forward based on swing speed (there is overlap between R-flex and S-flex in the middle).  If you are thinking of buying used, you really want to know flex before you buy clubs because the only way to change it is with new shafts.  The kick points and so forth are nice refinements, but standard shafts work for most folks.  I believe it is pretty easy to bend a few degrees of lie adjustment into most clubs, so that's not as critical unless you need something really different from the standard.  Talk to that pro about these concerns during your lesson.  These are questions s/he has probably dealt with many times.

Driver: Titleist 913 D2 10.5*, Aldila RIP Phenom 50

Fairway 1: Titleist 913F, 17*, Titleist Bassara W55

Fairway 2: Titleist 913F, 21*, Titleist Bassara W55

Irons: Titleist AP1 714 5-PW, Aerotech Steelfiber i95

Wedges: SCOR 4161 48/52/56/60, Genius 9

Grips: GolfPride New Decade Red Mid-size on all of the above.

Putter: Scotty Cameron Newport 2 - Super Stroke Slim 3.0


Note: This thread is 4538 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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