onthehunt526

9/5/24: Day 1 Played 9 holes this afternoon, worked on course strategy, and picturing shots.

You can typically get a shaft with the Callaway adapter from grips4less.com not sure if they carry the Brava shaft or not, it gives you somewhere to start, however.

Well said, we need someone with flamboyance like Seve had you know how they feel but, at the same time they realize there is a line of class. Someone who is an artist with a great set of hands.

Tiger looked spent after about 8 holes…

Your instructor isn’t off per se. I wouldn’t see an issue with you picking up say either a 5 or 7 wood… or a 4 hybrid or so. If you can find say something that goes consistently 170-175 then you could probably lighten your bag until you get some consistent strikes.

A good weekend by Tiger and he may not have to worry about receiving a special exemption to the U.S. Open… I’m not even saying he’s going to win… but a good weekend and he won’t need a special invite to the U.S. Open.

No Brooks is the douche. He can probably fund a holiday to the Bahamas with as much cussing as he was doing today.

I can’t it’s 9 hours for me, it’s just too far.

On my car I got the extended power train warranty. I do read the fine print most of the time. Though at now 37, my eyes aren’t what they were 10 years ago. The problem with most of these extended warranties on electronics and appliances is you don’t register the warranty with the place you buy the warranty from, which I’ve always found strange. Unless it’s GameStop then you know Alina drops her Switch in the next two years and the screen cracks they’ll replace it. No questions asked. You buy a slow cooker at Walmart for $50 and the extended warranty is say $6, you have to go through a third party to register your product for the warranty, and it’s pretty damn annoying. Target is the same way. Anything you buy the extended protection on you have to go through a third party. Why do retailers go through a “broker” for warranties? Because they don’t wanna deal with it? They make me talk to someone from another country, that I can barely understand, when I need my warranty fulfilled. Sorry for the rant.

You may be able to find a regular flex Blueboard on the second hand market. I’m little more than half your age so I swing a shaft that launches pretty low so I don’t have a lot of experience with Regular flex (other than when I try to hit it I miss way to the left). There are other shafts, such as the newer Ping Alta that I’ve heard good things about. And one that no one talks about. The Jupiter shaft. You can get this shaft for a $100 with a grip and your Ping adapter installed. I was talking to the golf manager at Dick’s Sporting Goods here and he has one in his driver and has nothing but good things to say about it. I thought about getting one for my Paradym Triple Diamond to play it a little shorter, but haven’t pulled the trigger yet.

Meanwhile, another old Tour Edge guy switches to Callaway for this season. I have a different problem, course dependent set-ups. What I’m wondering is if @dragonsmhas the 8 iron set 5-PW, AW, GW or just 5-PW, GW. Because the PW is 42°, AW 47°, and GW 52°. Because that could potentially be a gap there. The 5-iron to 6-iron length jump is 5/8” instead of 1/2” so you should be careful of that. @WUTiger the problem most people have with 3-woods is they don’t play them far enough back into their stance. And they usually don’t have enough loft and the shaft is too long. So 3HL, 4 or 5-wood is probably better for most golfers. I do the “Frankenwood” approach. I have both the 3+ and 5 woods. I typically will either add two degrees to the 3+ on 6600 yards or longer courses, or take a degree off the 5-wood on shorter courses than 6300 or so, and use the 5-wood shaft for both. I don’t usually find a situation where I need both the 3 and 5 wood on a course. I don’t play from 7000 yards it’s no fun. Edit: I mostly agree with @WUTiger on the gapping, although a lot of the newer even fixed hosel fairway woods are made better than what we had when we were playing the old Exotics XRails.

Callaway Golf Pre-Owned. Anything in “Like New” condition. My Paradym Triple Diamond Driver, 3-wood and 5-wood were “like new”, paid $330 for the driver and $200 a piece for the fairway woods, arrived at my door still in the cellophane…

I can play this one on guitar. I’m not usually big on Taylor but I like this one. I’ve been listening to this. Mostly because I like Mark Knopfler’s finger-picking. This compilation came out about a month ago, I’ve gotten through the “Alchemy” tracks so the first 14.

I live in Central NY. 6 hours would be doable, but it would depend on my work schedule as well, I work at a golf course from April-October. I may be able to take a couple days off, but it’d have to been like one Friday, Saturday, Sunday deal.

I have a caveat on this I think the driver can be different from the fairway that’s different than the hybrids. Like I said above if your gaps are ok it doesn’t matter. You can even have different fairways or hybrids. I believe that your fairways should maybe be the same as each other if you have multiple. And the same with hybrids. You want a little bit of consistency, but if you have a Ping driver, Taylormade fairways, and Callaway hybrids It doesn’t matter.

In short, no. Long version, it doesn’t matter if gaps are ok.

I was able to actually able to hit a few of the more “player’s” irons. I haven’t made any decisions yet. I tried the Mizuno Pro 223 and 221 (Though the Pro 241, 243, 245 will be out before we know it), the new T150s are nice, I like the feel, about 10 yards shorter than my E722 but it has 4.5° more loft. So it’s about right. The 225 was about 5 yards shorter smaller dispersion. Takomo and Srixon ZX5 MkII are possible as well.

So after a trip to Dick’s House Of Sport this evening, the Mizuno Pro 225 would into the same category as Apex Pro, T150, P770, etc. The pictures do not give them justice. The long irons are a little chunkier.

What about 3, 4, 5 iron Pro 225 and 223 6-PW?

It seems like I’ve framed this wrong. So let me reframe this. I’m looking to switch to player’s distance irons from my SGI Tour Edge Exotics E722. I do struggle with distance control, as I’ll hit one 7I 160 and the next out of nowhere 190. I’m okay with some variance, but 30 yards is a lot. It seems that distance control could be a con of going up to a player’s distance iron. Are there pros to switching? I do get to at least practice quite a bit, and get a tune up lesson once a month. I bring it up because my pro suggested it. Thanks.

I might be mixing it up. I was referring to a Mark Crossfield video you posted in a thread: Blades vs Cavity Backs a couple years ago.

So basically the science says that the OEM’s are full of it? Are you referring to the D-plane video from Mark Crossfield?

Distance control worse than SGI irons? Or just worse in general?

The main reason for wanting player’s distance irons is forgiveness yes. My 170 carry with a 7-iron is a little bit of a misnomer the E722 has 27.5° of loft, where as most player’s distance irons are closer to 30°. That being said, if I lose a few yards it won’t matter. I’ve considered a combo set, even considered the C723 from 6 iron down and 4 and 5 in E723. Maybe I’m weird, but I like the whole set to be the same. Of the irons I’ve mentioned I’ve tried all but the Takomo T101. But with a fitting it might be different because I’m in a shaft right now that is optimal for me, so maybe with that shaft I could make a fair comparison. I’m at a 5 in forgiveness, looking to go down to a 4 or 3.5. Hard to work the ball if I need to with the E722s. Combo set is a possible solution, definitely will have to watch the gaps though.

I carry my 7-iron around 170 yards. The ground is really soft here in Upstate NY so not a lot of run. @klineka The fairway/hybrid gapping isn’t as much of an issue as one would think. I get flyers with the E722s from the fairway. Are there pros to switching? @ChiTown It might be a good idea to get fit, because what do I know I’m just a 7 handicap.