Mathwiz

Dockers

I had the exact same thing happen with a white colored Pro. I too have never seen a ball do that.

Hey Adam, If you are slicing your driver, it is probably because you are swinging from outside to in with your club path. Have someone video your swing with their iphone and it will probably give you what you need to begin the correction process. As far as cutting the driver shaft down, if you aren't hitting the ball with the center of the clubface consistently , then cutting the shaft down can often help (it's not always the cure all, but sometimes it helps a lot). I bought a driver from Cobra and ordered it at 45 inches. I hit it good, but I was just a little off as far as "catching it" in the sweet spot on a consistent basis. I cut it down to 44.5 inches and I can really tell a huge difference in the consistency of hitting it solid. I always look at the face of the club after I hit my drive, and see where I hit the ball with the club. That is where the proof is. Ok, I typed the word consistent 3 times in the above post. That is what driver shaft length is all about. It is just that simple. That is why all the pros don't play 46 inch long drivers. They have them cut to a length that helps them hit the ball with the center of the club face on a you-know-what basis. Hope this helps, Mike

I use three items. 1.A soft bristled tooth brush (the one I didn't throw away when I replaced it) 2. A spray bottle of Windex (the blue stuff) 3. A microfiber towel. Spray the face of the club, brush the grooves, wipe with the microfiber. Then spray a shot on the shaft above the head, wrap the microfiber around it, slide the microfiber the length of the shaft and back down then put it in the bag. It simply doesn't get any easier or better than this.

I can tell you about the one I just bought, but can't tell you how it performs because I haven't had a opportunity to use it yet. It is the Kangaroo Hillcrest Max. It is electric and remote controlled or manually controlled. It was rated as a solid performer with a excellent track record as far as requiring little to no maintenance over a long period of time. The term I read more than once was "built like a tank". I'm hoping for the best.

OP, with those distance numbers, why don't you hit a stiff shaft?

When you cut the shaft at the butt end, it moves the fulcrum point on the scale closer to the head of the club since you slide the "new" cut end to the reference point on the scale where you butt the end of the shaft. That is why the head end of the club actually has a "lighter" feel to it.

If you buy new from a retailer there will not be extensions on the shafts. They will cut the butt end to specified length during assembly. I had a set of irons that I bought direct from Mizuno that were standard length. At a later time I was fitted for another set of irons and the fitting determined I needed +1/2" on my shaft lengths. Since I still liked playing the Mizunos occasionally, I bought some shaft extenders from Golfsmith and put them on the Mizunos. They played just fine.

There could be issues if the lies need to be adjusted. I'm not sure Ping would attempt to bend them considering the age of the clubs. At the very least I believe you would have to sign a release form. 17-4 stainless steel at 25 years can be quite brittle.

Callaway upro mx+?

I hope you post your results after getting the i20's back and play with them. The reason I am so interested is because I have a set of i20's green dot that I was fitted with off a lie board at Edwin Watts, and I also have a set of G20's black dot that I traded a set of Mizuno's for recently. I hit the I's last summer and didn't have the results I hoped for. I got the G's over the winter and played them a few times and had better scores with them. I'm not convinced that it's the arrows as much as the Indian. However, I'm still interested if you hit the i20's better when you get them adjusted. I've been meaning to check my lies with the line on the ball as opposed to the lie board, but haven't gotten around to doing it yet.

I'm gaming a Titleist 910 D2. When I bought it there was a reg flex MFT Diamana kali in it that I knew I would not hit. I put a Titleist adapter in a Fuji Motore Speeder VC 7.1 stiff flex and took it to the range. It was Playing 45.25 and I wasn't catching it dead center, so I cut it down to 44.5 and a D5 SW. I hit it much more flush now. There is no doubt, that when someone finds that perfect length, they hit it much more consistently in the center of the face. At least that has been my experience.

I bought a used Titleist 910 D2 that had a R flex MFT Diamana ka'ali in it at stock length. Didn't mind the R flex because my plan was to put a Fuji Motore Speeder VC 7.1 stiff in it. (I could buy the entire club for less than I could buy the head only). I also bought a used Titleist 910 F 15* 3 wood that had a S flex MFT Diamana ka'ali in it at stock length. Well, the Fuji didn't pan out for the D2 head so just for kicks, I put the 3 wood shaft in the D2. I measured it at 43.75 inches and the swingweight is C6. After 2 range sessions, I am seriously considering leaving it alone like it is. Unbelievable how I lost no distance compared to the Fuji, but I hit it square in the center and straight. The most interesting aspect I noticed is the boring, penetrating flight with what appears to be a lot of rollout. I also tee the top of the ball even with the top of the crown or I catch it too high on the face. Well, I needed a 3 wood shaft so................. I butt cut the R flex ka'ali down today to 43.5 overall length but haven't hit it yet. When I hit the 3 wood with the driver length shaft in it yesterday at the range though, I hit it well, so trimming it to proper length should not be a problem. I'm 6 feet tall & golf is a weird game.

I've always kept it simple when cleaning my clubs after a round. Three items. Windex, a soft bristle toothbrush, and a microfiber towel. Spray it, brush it, wipe it. Quick and my clubs look great. Of course I skip the brush it part on the metal woods crown. I'm tapping, but it still ain't talking!

A bunch.