mcgregja

I believe, although I'm not absolutely certain, that zb's are simply a "designed mixed" set. Essentially the short irons are the mb series, the long irons are the cb, and either two or three clubs in between are blended and not found in either. To try and answer your question more specifically, when I hit flush with these clubs, they are great performers and a couple of really low rounds will reflect that. However, as my game improves and declines so often, modern cavity backs would improve my overall average round. If you have a consistent swing, which mine really isn't, you'll love these. If you're looking to really fine tune even, these can provide the feedback to help do that. If you're a proficient casual golfer, like myself, you'll probably enjoy the other series previously mentioned. If this helps any, I'm sticking with them because I plan on making an effort to really improving my ball striking this upcomming season, and I think this model will really help do that, as well as show great performance going forward. Hope this helps.

I've played the zbs for about a year and a half now. I love the 'automatic' extra forgiveness gained from the longer irons. As previously mentioned there is still a significant amount of forgiveness on the shorter irons, my mishits don't lose much distance, but there is certainly definitive feedback when you don't get it right. I would say that if you're looking to gain workability with bladed short irons, only consider these if you can accept the feedback the clubs give you. I'm not at a point in my game yet where I can strike the ball perfectly time after time. I find that the feedback, while allowing forgivable mishits, is just not a comfortable feeling for my casual golfing. If I worked at my game a little more, these would be perfect for me, but for my current habit, I find some uncomfortability in not attaining a more solid strike on a consistent basis. Overall, I think these are great clubs in the right set of hands. If I had to do it over again, I might lend some more consideration to the ap series, or mizunos. While the feedback is great, I'd trade back the consistency and feel of modern cavity backs for what little extra workability you get with the blades.

Don't think of the shaft as your bat. Think of the clubhead as the bat.

The 983K was the first driver I used, a free gift from a friend. It was a big step up from my 3 wood and felt great to hit. I think it was a perfect stepping stone to a 460cc. Once I got comfortable with the 983K, I started trading accuracy for distance. When I couldn't push it any further, I switched to a 460cc which allowed me to maintain (and gain) distance while adding more forgiveness. Hold onto the 983K until your swing develops, then invest in the newest technology and watch them fly consistently long and straight. Like someone posted earlier, after hitting a smaller head for a year, a 460cc seems like a toy.

Currently using X-16 Pros from 5 years ago. Weren't fitted for me but I was just starting out and got a ridiculous price on them. I can work them fairly well in either direction but I feel like I could attack pins much better with a different set. Currently looking at MP67's, X-Forged, and the AP-2's although I'm tempted to wait and see if Callaway's X-muscles get any cheaper. Those things just look crazy.

I never noticed Tiger do the Two feet thing. My swing has always been more up-and-down than it should be. I've been playing for about 5 years, I've never taken lessons and I've never been able to draw the ball, not even close. My divots are always out-to-in and no matter how much I've tried to swing in-to-out, I've never been able to do so without badly hooking. Over the years, I've just learned to play a fade and tried to control it as best I could. I've always felt that a proper in-to-out swing plane is what prevented me from proper shot shaping, and a single digit handicap. I went to the range yesterday, and did the two feet thing while getting loose and I noticed something immediately. There was a huge difference between this rotation and the rotation my body does during my swing. In my previous attempts to swing around my body, I wasn't changing my takeaway, thus resulting in a much more angled out-to-in divot. I tried hitting a ball while focusing entirely on opening up my body on the takeaway. Perfect draw. I repeated the two feet drill before every swing, and hit a solid draw on every shot with the exception of one or two blocked off. I plan on incorporating this drill in my routine and I'll look for Tiger to do it at the Master's. Thanks!

I hit the Nickent 3dx's and a pair of Tour Edge's this past Easter weekend. It was a close call, but I felt like I could work the Tour Edge a little easier. I also loved the sound they make.

Bag: $60 Driver: $220 3 Wood: $99 Hybrids: $30 each Irons: $399 Wedge: $25 Putter: Free (Won it at a Bar) Balls: $25/dz ~$900 total.

^ Agree. I started using them when they used to offer free greens fees with purchase. Now, I they throw in a free hat. I still order from them because I have yet to get a ball that was not as described. They describe mint as used for 1-3 holes. If they are, you can never really tell the difference, or they are unused logo overruns as described above.

I have also heard good things about lostgolfballs.com. I have never used them because knetgolf.com has yet to let me down. I started buying used balls there when they were offering free rounds with purchase on ebay. Now, I think they give free hats, but I've found their quality to be superb. I would've included this in my previous post, but I am new and wasn't sure about any rules against referencing specific vendors and pricing.

Used ball condition scales can vary greatly from seller to seller. Some that use the A-AAAA system even add random + signs to add to the confusion. $18/dz does sound a little steep for the lowest quality ball though. I assume it's lowest quality because I don't think discoloration is considered 'best' quality. You can probably find mint pro v's for not too much more if you look hard enough.