BGPro

Driver - $150 for the head, $250 for the shaft 3wood - $100 for the head, $300 for the shaft 2 hybrid - $250 3 hybrid - $250 4-PW - $800 for the heads, $250 for the shafts 52*/58* wedges - $200, $60 for the shafts (proj.x) Putter - $300 (actually traded in a set of irons worth $300 for the putter) So... about $3,360 for everything... it now has become apparent as to why my bank account has been mysteriously dwindling, lol!

Home course is Oak Ridge C.C. About 10-15 years ago it was in the top 5 nine hole courses in Texas... it's been let go just like a fat kid in a doughnut shop. It's STARTING to look like a golf course again, but it's gonna take a lot more time and $$ for that to happen any time soon.

The new pro at our club decided that since he didn't have an aerator, he'd disk the fairways. He tore the $hit out of them, leaving huge trenches in them that still haven't recovered after 2 months of doing it. He didn't even bother to re-seed them. Anyone ever heard of this before?

No it doesn't make sense. Open your 58 up and flop it.

I had the same problem a few years ago. I played the original Isopur from Ping and I liked it, but didn't love it. I found that it felt different from different distances... (the face insert reacted different with different stroke speeds). I sought out to find a putter that felt the same, all the time. At first I shyed away from insert putters but found that I really enjoyed the scotty that I have now. As far as looks, I find that the topline of the putter is what matters to me the most. I enjoy having a thicker topline. Find a face that you like and then find a style. That's what I suggest.

I play an R9 for a 3 wood and hit it very good off the deck. I also carry a burner 5w and that thing is EASY to hit high and long. I'd suggest the burner with a softer tip shaft... can't go wrong and they're cheap right now.

have any of you tried the Top Flite D2 Feel? It has the distance of the XL, but the feel of a more quality ball. I'm able to spin these very nicely around the greens. At 15 bucks for 15 of them, it's a sweet value also. I'm not saying I play them, but I've played them before when I found a few the other week. I personally play the Taylormade TP Red.

If I hit the ball well I'm happy. If I hit the ball poorly, I'm frustrated. I don't think I get mad... just frustrated and motivated to come back and fix what was wrong :) I would rather have a good day of ball striking and a bad score than a bad day of ball striking and a good score.

I use model paint and apply it with a toothpick... works nicely. I've got the same irons and don't worry about spilling paint on them... just fill the swoosh and later take the toothpick and scratch off the excess paint from the back of the blade.

taylormadegolfpreowned.com is sweet. I am amazed at the quality of used clubs. Just bought two clubs, one in "excellent" condition which couldn't have been hit before, and one in "very good" condition that was hit maybe 2 rounds... good stuff.

well... that particular callaway is a bore-through design, so if you just hacked it off you'd wind up with a baseball bat... plus, you really shouldn't extend a club more than 1/2" I have to be honest, I've done that for a few of my customers and they seem to be happy, but I wouldn't put the effort into it... you can find a used driver with a quality shaft for under 100 at almost any golf galaxy nowadays, and that driver will probably only be a year or two old.

Obviously any tour level ball will have the most POTENTIAL to spin the most... HOWEVER... the real answer is... a ball that is struck solidly will spin the most. If Tiger Woods played a Top Flight, he could spin it more than you could, simply because he strikes the ball better.

In my opinion, the reason the longer club worked better is because the shorter club was probably coming in at impact very FLAT... meaning the toe was digging in more than the heel. By increasing the length of the club, you now have a new point at which the club bottoms out, and because it is farther away from you, it was probably more neutral or upright. Your height is NOT the determining factor in club length... it is the distance your knuckles (make a fist and hold your hands at your sides... the punching knuckles) are to the ground. That deals with ARM LENGTH. So... perhaps you feel more comfortable with shorter or "standard" clubs rather than 1" over, but the reason you hit the 1" over clubs better is because the LIE ANGLE was better for you. I would make sure you go to a club fitter and have him or her check your LIE ANGLE to see if it is correct... that is the second thing I test for when I fit someone for clubs. After the length is determined, then I go to the LIE ANGLE... and to be honest, sometimes you don't need new clubs at all... you just need yours bent to the correct angles. I hope you can understand my rambling, and I hope it helps. Please, if you have any other questions or need me to clarify something feel free to drop me a line... I'm here to help.

There IS no comparison... Diamana all the way on this one.

What I would suggest is going to your local club builder (or just call) and ask. Also, if you look at their products on TM's site, and look at the club/shaft specs, it SHOULD be there... i think. But caution... even if you buy the correct shaft size, you MUST have the correct ferrule, or else your shaft won't fit correctly and you will damage the club.