cuzcapri

because im not a long ball hitter on par 5's and some of the longer par 's on my course i have to remind myself don't go for it hit the longest club you can keep in play you can still make par. so the best tip i can give is know your game and the course from it. dont try shots you didnt practice.

the things i've been told to take into consideration when buying wedges where do you play most of your golf does your golf course have alt of of tight lies what kind of sand are the bunkers (loose or tight packed) is the rough thick or just average grass and so on as far as a brand new i cant give you 1 but i would replace all the wedges so i had the same fell through out the set if you can get fitted for your wedges and make sure to gap them correctly

ill already be at work by the time the snow starts to fall hoping i dont get stuck there

south jersey is getting to get hit with up to another foot of this wonderful stuff. remember when we were kids we would love for the snow so we didnt have school

i hit a draw and suffer from an over draw "hook" myself so i try to play the right side of the green on approach shots. my score goes up when i try to get cute around the greens (which is another topic all together) but when i'm missing i'm missing left because of too much movement on the ball.

i went to it back in 09 had fun been trying to get there again but never had the time off

thanks for you insight. i was just wondering cause i tend to get upset with myself when i don't get as close i think i should be depending on the club in my hand. 3,4,5 iron on the green is good 6,7 i should able to go at it. 8,9,pw i think i should able to really go at it but based off what your saying i shouldn't beat myself up over it.

is there a direct ratio between the club, distance, and how close to the pin i can expect to be? as a 14 handicap should i expect to be within 10 ft from the pin if i'm 100 yrds and in?

how was the show? i was going to go, but the second the wife found out i had a sunday off she decided we were going bowling instead

my ball flight is a draw and i fight a hook from time to time. i cant hit a small cut to save my life. but this 1 time i was able to slice the ball around a tree i was to close to go over, almost broke my back trying to start the club that far outside and my wrist trying to hold off the release but it did slice, and it was in play

here in south jersey things have been bad. no courses playable. good thing i found a simulator in center city phila i can play. i got to play dorel a few weeks back on it

you my friend are absolutely correct. thank you for clarifying this for me so i don't make that mistake again.

sorry if this was confusing. after rereading it i think i understand what i didn't say. as a right handed golfer setting up to the ball with your body lines parallel to the target line swing from in to out if the face is closed to the path the ball will start right and work back left. if your swing path is in to out and the club face open to path the ball start right and curve farther right. if your swing path is out to in and your club face is closed to the path the ball will start left and curve farther left and if your face is open to the swing path your ball will start left and curve right

you know exactly what im trying to say. not trying to be confusing. please clarify so if it comes up again i don't sound like an idiot

every we are talking about is the club face relative to the swing path for right handed golfer im assuming that we all set our body lines parallel to the target. so if your right handed swinging from in to out and the face is closed relative to the path the ball is going to start right of the target and work back toward to the target if your swing is in to out and your face s closed relative to your target line the ball is going to go left and curve even more left and vise versa

the trac man will give you the data tat you need to work on things that you already know about your ball flight so if you hit or struggle with a hook or over draw the ball the trac man can tell you why by how much of what you are doing. ex. i was on the trac man last week notice all my swings in to out by 12-14 degrees to the target line with a closed face to my swing path causing the the ball to draw more than i wanted it to. so i started to open the face and tryed not to drop the club so far to the inside .

Golf Ball Flight Diagram The ball flight diagram below covers 9 different shot shapes and the names we give them. I find that most amateur golfers label any shot that curves away sharply to the right (for the right-handed golfer) as a slice. But this isn’t the case… A slice is golf ball that starts to the left of target and finishes to the right of target. If, as the ball flight diagram below shows, the golf ball starts right and then curves further right we call it a ‘push-slice’. This isn’t just semantics or a case of golf professionals being overly fussy. What I might recommend to fix a slice could actual make a push-slicer’s problem worse and vice versa. I’ve written a full, plain-English explanation of the ball flight laws in golf. I strongly recommend you read that article in conjunction with using the ball flight diagram below. Together, they will help you self-diagnose, and correct, any problem that might creep into your game: Ball Flight Terminology (Right-Handed Golfer) Pull-Hook (purple line) Definition Ball starts left of target and curves further left of target. What It Tells You Club face is closed at impact (pointing left relative to swing path). Your swing path may also be out-to-in but may also be straight or even in-to-out . Look at where your divots are pointing to determine your swing path. Hook (yellow line) Definition Ball starts right of target and curves back left to finish left of target. What It Tells You Swing path is in-to-out (not necessarily a bad thing) and the club face is closed at impact (pointing left relative to swing path). Pull (navy blue line) Definition Ball starts and finishes left of target but stays straight in its flight (no curve). What It Tells You Swing path is out-to-in and the club face is square to the swing path. Fade (green line) Definition Ball starts left of target and curves back right to finish on target. What It Tells You As with a slice, the swing path is out-to-in and the club face is open at impact (pointing right relative to swing path). However, unlike a slice the ball must finish on the target line (not right of it) to be classed as a fade. On Target (dotted line) Definition Ball starts straight and stays straight in its flight to finish on target. What It Tells You Your swing path is straight down the target line and your club face is square to the swing path (and target line in this case). Draw (red line) Definition Ball starts right of target and curves back left to finish on target. What It Tells You As with a hook, the swing path is in-to-out and the club face is closed at impact (pointing left relative to swing path). However, unlike a hook the ball must finish on the target line (not left of it) to be classed as a draw. Push (light blue line) Definition Ball starts and finishes right of target but stays straight in its flight (no curve) What It Tells You Swing path is in-to-out and the club face is square to the swing path. Slice (pink line) Definition Ball starts left of target and curves back right to finish right of target. What It Tells You Swing path is out-to-in and the club face is open at impact (pointing right relative to swing path). Push-Slice (orange line) Definition Ball starts right of target and curves further right of target. What It Tells You Club face is open at impact (pointing right relative to swing path). Your swing path may also be in-to-out but may also be straight or even out-to-in . Look at where your divots are pointing to determine your swing path.

manage a fast food restaurant. and just started building golf clubs to help me pay for my hobby

having an understanding of the ball flight laws you have to open the face and have an inside to outside swing path to hit a draw. i set up with an open club because my miss is a draw that crosses over my target line. something i work on when i get on a trac man.

yes feather flight would be made for giga golf. i ran into an issue with a set of wilson di9s fat shafts i wanted to reshaft TT wouldnt send them to me because they where made for wilson only, and wilson wouldnt send them to me either, because they wanted me to send the clubs to them. also i wasnt accussing giga golf shafts of being clones sorry if you got that idea, but i know their heads are. TT has a 105 gram and a 95 gram shaft out, new this year from what i understand, at hireko.com check it out

if thats what you want to compare it too.i looked on their site it looks like they do clones from alot of different manufactures

that is correct i was talking about the numbers across the butt end of the shaft hers picture of the sticker that comes with the shaft. if your talking about the smaller 1 around the tip end of th shaft it says "true tremper finest quality made in usa"

sorry it took so long had to go into my shop to get one of this for the info your looking for first set of numbers are smaller they are the serial number second set are the model number and are uttxlic-43 raw shaft lengh is 43" weight is 128 grams can be flexed r and s not a to s like i said before sorry about butt size.600 tip .370 parallel tip 12" long if you need tip trimming instructions for this shaft and cant find it on your own let me know i can help

the tt lite xl are made at 43" long so that you can build longer irons with them if you have to that what the xl stands for extra long. you can get the tipping instructions right off of true tempers web site, and can be trimmed to flex for a to s. also they weigh 128 gram raw shaft. i have them in my clubs and love them . i put them in set i built for a friend and he loves them

so with their ability to make different weighted heads they do not have to tip weight to get the club to a certain swing weight giving them the ability to use different shaft, head and grip combo