mdrengl

I don't own one but I can say that I don't like the bag clamps that sun mountian has incorporated in their carts. I've demo'd the cart with an empty bag resting in the cradle and had difficulties keeping the bag still when walking around. Now that might be different when the bag is full, and it's something I'll try out next time I go to work (I work at Golfsmith.) If you can wait until Saturday, I'll report back on how well the clamps work with a full bag. I'll look at the handle adjustment as well.

Can I still join the group 3 weeks late? I tried and got a notice that the group was full. Forgive me for not wading through 19 pages if this has already been discussed...

The "appropriate" response is to call the pro shop and have a ranger take care of it. I recall a topic on here regarding people hitting into the offending group and verbal confrontations. It might seem like a rewarding experience at first, but golf is a gentleman's game. IMHO, act like a gentleman on the course and you will be rewarded for good behavior.

I have the same problem from time to time. It isn't a slight baby fade, it takes a huge turn to the right. For me it can sometimes go 30 yards right after the apex of the ball flight.

As long as you install the MagicJack software on XP, everything seems to work just fine. When I first got the MagicJack, I installed the software onto Vista and also installed the corresponding software update to be compatible with Vista. The software would freeze. Interestingly, the computer would run just fine even though the MagicJack software would remain frozen until I hard-booted the computer. The support for MagicJack was less than helpful during this process and refused to send a replacement or a refund for the product. Hopefully this was just a rare occurance, as the concept of MagicJack is fantastic and seems to be cheaper than Skype. After finding a laptop with Windows XP, my family was able call and be called from across the world with no additional fees. It certainly beats international phones and their horrific rates. And as long as you can live without carrying a phone around with you at all times, the savings are astounding.

Oh okay, I missed that point Yeap, sorry buddy. Back on topic, I like the r7 TP's the best out of the bunch. I have more fun playing when I play with r7's vs. my Titleist irons

Hey guys. Just figured I would shine some light on the situation for returns at Golfsmith. 90/90 (90 days to try, can return for 90% refund - store credit) Threshold for a NEW set of irons is $550. There is NO threshold for pre-owned clubs. All pre-owned clubs have 10/90 (10 days to try, can return for 90% refund cash back.) Not sure on the 30 day return policy you speak of, not something I've heard of for clubs. Source: I work at Golfsmith, and if you'd like, http://www.golfsmith.com/ps/display_...ifference_9090 As for the pricing of new vs. old, I've never seen a brand new set of clubs go for less than the same club pre-owned. There are times when the prices on pre-owned haven't been updated, and usually you just need to talk to someone to look up the new price. The databases are kept up to date by hand, there is always a possibility that something hasn't been updated just yet. In regards to the employee who wanted to buy the used set - usually we get cut really good deals on used clubs. But it's a huge no-no to tell customers that we want to purchase a set in hopes of shooing away a customer. I'm glad it didn't influence your decision. I like working for Golfsmith and I enjoy talking to people who have had good experiences there. It is the first retail job I've had that I've really been proud to call myself an employee. I think it says a lot about a company when an employee can admit that it is a good company to work for. Let me know if you have any other questions about Golfsmith. I don't know everything, because just like all retailers, there are a few things screwy once and awhile.

Every Pro V1/Callaway Black/Nike ONE Black I have in my bag was supplied from my ball retriever. I vote helpful accessory.

That's it, thanks uberswing!

I seem to remember a website that people used to use here on this forum that would let you upload a video and also let you draw lines/circles/angles etc... to analyze your own swing. The site also allowed people to analyze your swing for you. For the life of me I can't remember the website. Any ideas?

After reading "The Impact Zone," I began understanding the game much more than ever before. While I don't go as crazy with the pitch/chip practice as longfornothing, I spend 50-75% of my practices hitting half shots, only focusing on moving my forward swing bottom 4 inches in front of the ball and lagging my load. It creates a stress free practice environment and allows me to have more fun while playing. The most important take away from the book is that the look of your swing is meaningless; once the fundamentals are mastered nobody will care what your swing looks like because you'll be hitting fairways and greens. And they'll be diving too deep into their wallets to pay out all the greenies, skins, wolfs, and cowboys you win ;)

He must have an unlocked iPhone. I assume jailbroken too immts007?

I have to agree with jambalaya. We should see two-cheeks by the time the head of the club reaches the ball for impact.

I hit my driver average 280. My 3 wood goes 240+

I do. Thanks to everyone for the great tips!

You know, Jack Nicklaus has a 'power fade'... Fading the ball isn't a bad thing. But if you are fading the ball with only a select few clubs, then your swing is changing and not consistent. Consistency is something all players are striving for.

Yesterday I returned home from a wonderful trip to Pinehurst, NC. 4 rounds in 5 days is quite a bit of golf! 98 degrees and high humidity makes for a difficult 4 rounds though. I had some trouble being able to swing the club with confidence when I'm sweating so much. I always feel as if I'm going to lose the club in my hand, and a few times I almost did. I used a towel to dry off my grip and non-glove hand before every shot, but even a few practice swings would be enough to make my grip slippery again. I went through 2 brand new gloves in the heat... Can anyone recommend anything?

Unfortunately, it seems as if you've missed the point. Again, your forward swing bottom can easily be manipulated by ensuring that your left wrist stays straight and your right wrist stays bent throughout your entire swing. This is helped by simply starting your hands slightly in front of the ball at address. It appears your way of hitting short shots differs from mine. I would rather use the same swing and simply move it back or forward in my stance, instead of practicing different amounts of wrist action. Using my method, I can hit shots straight up into the air or a bump and run with spin just by moving the ball position. Of course, your way has worked for you, I am not trying to belittle your game. I'm just trying to answer the initial question made by King Cobra II.

Correct, the end of the grip. Another good way of thinking is to let gravity start the downward motion of your swing. This is actually called 'gravity golf,' as named by some of the best teachers. It sounds like you may be taking the club back too fast if it is required that you put pressure on the grip in order to stop your backswing. Tempo is key! If you watch some professionals, you can clearly see the transition between their backswing and forward swing. It almost looks like a pause at the top of the backswing -- this is called 'setting' the club. If you can set the club, then the transition isn't so much as a force stopping the backswing, but a natural force (gravity) pulling the club down to start your forward swing. I hope that helps.

I would like to respectfully disagree the point in the bold. In general, it is common practice to hit this shot more forward in your stance to get more loft on contact. In any swing, your swing bottom should always be in front of the ball position. In order to move your swing bottom forward, you simply need to keep your left wrist straight, and your right wrist bent through out the down swing. In fact, if you do this consistently, you will never skull the shot! And remember that all shots have hip rotation -- rotate around your body, even in a small chip shot.

Hi everyone, just joined this forum and I am looking forward to lots of information given and received! Anyway, onto the topic at hand. Let me say that the following quote is the perfect practice: I have just learned (5 months ago) and mastered the idea that each one of my irons have two lengths, a full swing and knock down yardage. It takes a certain 'finesse' and feel in order to exploit the idea of a knock down shot to go the yardage required for any situation. In my opinion, it is this idea that separates the 0 to the 10 hcaps, the 10 to the 20 hcaps, and so on. Also, I wanted to bump this topic, as I feel that it hasn't been discussed enough.