
dmband8985
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Everything posted by dmband8985
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Best Game Improvement Irons for cheap
dmband8985 replied to nophace's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
acer xk irons from hireko golf -
Irons for a non-serious player?
dmband8985 replied to j-rad's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
Hireko Golf www.hirekogolf.com do yourself a huge favor and check out the acer xk line or irons...based on your description that you posted most likely the High Trajectory version but the regular version may suit your game too...the regular xk's compare very well to clubs like the x-20's while the high trajectory irons have wider soles and thicker toplines which compare more to clubs like the big bertha's and even the raptures. The xk line was featured in the 09 hotlist in the budget guide and many members on these boards have said good things about the acer line. if you really like the raptures look into gigagolf c9...don't know much about those particular clubs but gigagolf has some nice products and a good reputation. -
sorry i misspelled it...it is hurricanegolf.com
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anyone ever buy anything from them...i see they have cci forged irons and wilson pi7's for $299. never heard of the site till now though...ur thoughts?
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Fake or Not: Callaway Big Bertha Fusion FW (2005)
dmband8985 replied to plop's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
rockbottomgolf is a pretty reputable site...i don't think they'd sell you fake clubs -
Best iron out of the rough
dmband8985 replied to MonkeyClaw's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
g10's should be pretty good out of the rough....its got everything you need: lots of weight down low, substantial enough sole, rounded leading edge and a little bit of bounce angle so the club doesn't dig. it may just be an issue of not swinging hard enough to get out of the thick stuff. when you say you want something to cut through the rough, you mean glide through the rough right? a club that can cut rough is likely to dig and make it harder to get the ball out. -
Damaged one of my irons. Rats!
dmband8985 replied to Doctorfro's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
the difference is a ding on the car didn't get there by using the car how its supposed to be use...its usually some a-hole in a parking lot that has no respect for other people and their property and swing their car door wide open and ding up your door in the process. the scuff on your iron go there by doing exactly what you should have been doing with it....with the forces put on the club and ball by your swing and the ground, i really think that every swing should leave some sort of mark on the club, especially on the sole -
Spray powder to see impacts?
dmband8985 replied to Lopyswine's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
you don't want to powder the face of the club....the impact would cause the powder everywhere to disperse...instead, chalk the ball on the side that the club will make impact and you'll get a clean mark on your club. you could also use some sort of water soluble ink marker as long as its not permanent. other option is just to get some impact tape -
Help me choose my new irons! Beginner!
dmband8985 replied to DeeNajjEeOh's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
hireko acer xk irons....golf digest had them on their budget guide in the hot list 2009 issue. they are great, and at about 200 bucks you can easily afford to get some lessons and play some nice course...you'll be breaking 90 faster than you know it. i know it doesn't have the allure of the big brands, but hireko has some top notch engineers and they put forth a very solid product. i see you've got a 3 hybrid, i'd recommend adding a 4 hybrid as well, and playing 5-pw -
sorry, i was trying to reply to multiple posts.. the first is response to your question between the difference between the v2 65 and 75. the second was a response to the OP with the Launcher with prolaunch blue. but in terms of x-stiff, you really should get your swing speed measured properly before you go out buying a shaft. the trouble is those charts don't always correlate properly. with an x-stiff, you really are talking tour level swing speeds...also when looking for a driver shaft, don't worry about our 150 yard out clubs, just worry about driver carry. use teh 150 out club measure to determine what flex your iron shafts should be. in terms of carry, are you hitting 270 yard drives or carrying 270? carrying 270+ means you're playing closer to 300 off the tee, in which case why reshaft your driver, it seems to be working well for you
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difference is 10 grams....whether you like a 65 gram shaft or a 75 gram shaft is your choice....plus some drivers just feel better with lighter shafts and others swing better with heavier shafts. the prolaunch blue has quite a high bend point and a really stiff tip....if your a 'tweener in terms of swing speed, you're better of going down flex so an R rather than S. The V2 is actually a pretty tough shaft to load as well
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Hitting hybrid irons out of the rough…
dmband8985 replied to jopela's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
a sharper leading edge is probably only recommended for great ball strikers and low handicappers. if you come in behind the ball, no matter the lie, the club will likely dig and will limit the contact you get with the ball. best case, the ball will come out clean but only go about 50 yards...more likely, a wicked shank -
Do grips really affect play?
dmband8985 replied to dagolfer's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
Also, what is your shaft diameter? if its a .600 then gripping them with .580 grips will increase your grip size by about 1/64th if you are between grip sizes. if you're a .580 shaft than you'd have to go with extra tape underneath. are you regripping yourself? you could save some money that way assuming you already have a few basic tools and materials...a hooked blade, double sided tape, and some sort of solvent -
title says it all i think. definition of overrated in my book is clubs that have more brand appeal than performance appeal...not to say that they aren't good products, but rather that there name makes them seem better than what they are...price is usually a factor in this, but price alone doesn't necessarily have to equal overrated. underrated equipment is clubs that often get passed over or overlooked despite the fact that they are on par performance wise. let's throw out components and imports because its not something that everyone can get there hands on sometimes. that said, here are mine: overrated: - titleist ap-1s- just don't live up to the titelist name in my opinion, at least not as much as some of their other irons including their brothers the ap-2s - callaway ft-iq driver- eh, i think a lot of people will agree with me on this one - most new taylor made irons (anything newer than r7's)- i think taylor made is starting to think they can sell crap as long as it looks futuristic, which is sad because the r7 and r7 tp's were so good - scotty cameron putters- there are a lot of flatsticks out there for half the price that pack the same tech and feel as a scotty. underrated: -wilson staff pi7 -nickent hybrids -topflite gamers -adams irons-though i think they are soon to be headed into the the so underrated they are overrated...kind of like the Lamar Odom of the golf club world
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things like this remind me of that scene in Tin Cup where Cheech has Costner's characters do all sorts of things to get him out of his slump like jiggling change in his pocket and what not. you do enough things to get your mind off of what actually matters and all of a sudden you forget what was causing the problem to start. if it works for you then go for it
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Graphite or Steel for Irons
dmband8985 replied to shermanM4A1's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
depends on a lot of factors....how much do you plan on playing? what kind of irons were you looking at? end of the day its really just about what feels better...what may be right for me may be completely wrong for you. there will be alot of stuff on the web making generalities about steel vs graphite, but there are some graphite shafts that play similar to steel and ultralite steel shafts that feel like graphite. do know that if you ever have an accident with a graphite shaft, it'll cost more to replace the shaft....problem is most graphite shafts are made specifically for that set of irons, which means you gotta buy the shaft from the club company to get a matching shaft so that it plays like the rest of your irons. steel shafts that come with most irons off the rack can also be purchased individually at most golf stores so if something happens to one club, its a lot easier/cheaper to replace that shaft with an identical one. best advice though is to get out there and start swinging a bunch of clubs and find the one that fits your game the best -
oh yeah, i own irons cover....i keep my irons covered when they are in the car...take them off before i hit the course though since they are massive pain in the butt and bound to lose one somewhere. clubs, no matter what they cost are an investment and i don't want too much bag chatter when they are in teh trunk and bouncing around...i've got a hatchback so i can hear them very clearly when they are back there
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haha, you may be above calling him out on how you can probably hit the ball further than him...but i'm not. btw, nicklaus makes some solid irons, especially some of their forged irons. i feel like they always get a bad rap because of some of the lower end boxed sets they sell under the golden bear brand name. truth be told, those really aren't even that bad for a pure beginner who only plays once or twice a year....but that is a discussion for another place and time. wilson i feel is pretty much in the same boat. back to the issue of clones...there are plenty of good component companies out there that put out research and development efforts. they don't have to technologies and the money to come out with highly innovative equipment like the taylormades and callaways and nikes, so they use their resources instead to study the innovations in the from equipment from those companies and incorporate them into their products to equal the performance, and many times they succeed. most of the overhead for big oems is not r and d though, it is advertising, sponsorships and employment. companies like taylormade and callaway have thousands of employees...most of them in accounting and pr type jobs that have nothing to do with making golf clubs. add all the millions of dollars they have to spend on magazine ads, tv spots, pro players to wear a hat with their name on it, and people to come up with what their logos look like and what colors their headcovers should be, they almost have to charge the prices they do in order to turn a profit. clone makers on the other hand are small business...maybe just a handful of employees, don't have to pay players, dont do mass media advertising, and don't have huge corporate offices to power...they don't have to charge as much to take in a proportionate profit. end of the day, the material cost to build a club from raw materials for both the oem and the component maker is the same....the oem just has a lot more mouths to feed so they have to charge more. if anyone has a problem with clones...then you should have problems drinking pepsi...cause after all coke came out first
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onthehunt, i forgot to ask...i see your avatar is of techpower forged irons...did you used to play those before you got your vr's? i assume they treated you well considering your low handicap...i'm looking for a clubmaking project to build a set of players irons and stumbled across those heads for a decent price, but can't find any good technical reviews on them
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the 250 yard shot is pretty important i think...my comfort zone to wedge in to the green is like 80-100 yards, so i can take a normal swing and not have to worry about how much to take off it to get the distance i want. so on short par 4 or unreachable par 5 i like to go 250 off the tee. is your 270 with a full swing or relaxed 80% type swing? if it's the latter, then i'd pick up the 4 wood to close that gap. if its a full swing, maybe you could get away hitting and easy 3 wood to go 250 when you need that shot...but at the same time i wouldn't go below 3/4 swing to get there.
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Do grips really affect play?
dmband8985 replied to dagolfer's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
try regripping two similar irons, like a 6 and 7 iron since they usually have roughly the same feel swingwise...one with each grip. it'll cost an extra 8 bucks now but better to get it right the first time -
Opinions of these iron sets
dmband8985 replied to Andycapped's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
hybrids definitely won't make the game easier by any means...hybrids alone can't overcome the deficit of bad mechanics, so you'll have to develop your swing properly anyways. here is how hybrids will be helpful to you both now and in the future as your game improves: for most beginners, the tendency with long irons is to hit up and try to lift the ball up to compensate for the lack of loft on the club. this results either topped or chunked shots depending on your swing. the proper way to hit irons of course is to hit down on the ball which results in greater transfer of kinetic energy from the club to the ball by means of compression. hybrids too should make contact with the ball on the downswing...this is actually quite a bit more difficult than it sound and really what separates good ball strikers from the rest of us. the advantage of hybrids is since they share some characteristics of characteristics with woods, is that they respond well when on the upswing, meaning less shanks as a beginner. obviously it will be much shorter than a well struck ball, but at least you'll be in teh same fairway. as your game progresses and you consistently strike the ball well with your hybrids, you'll be able to start working the ball in both directions, much like you would be able to with an iron. the mechanics of working a ball are the same with a hybrid and and iron so you won't have to sacrifice learning how to do it properly. -
Do grips really affect play?
dmband8985 replied to dagolfer's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
i fear this thread may no longer be about grips... i'm sorry, what kind of irons did you say they were? and also, why not dynamic golds? if they're good enough for tiger then they ought to be good enough for the rest of us. and they are the third the cost of project x -
its my experience that new clubs will only help you consistently shoot on the lower side of your range...meaning if you are usually playing 95-100, new irons will help you keep it closer to 95 rather than 100. the notable exceptions of course are if you were originally playing complete trash (duct tape holding together vital components) or you were playing tour caliber muscle backs. considering you were playing x-12's before i would get discouraged if you don't shoot 80 the next time you go out. you really gotta take some lessons or at least make friend with people who are solid golfers who can give you some pointers. i really hoped you tried more than one set of irons before you decided to purchase your set too...it worries me when people would rather having matching clubs than the best suited clubs. its like when i go snowboarding and see some guy with all shaun white gear from his clothes to his board and bindings, but can't get off the lift without falling. anyways...congrats on the new sticks, hopefully you hit them well
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look for a combo set of hybrids and irons...for instance i play nickent 3dx redback combo set with 3 and 4 hybrids and 5-pw and can be had easily under 300 at most retailers online. if your are looking for a full set of traditional irons, try the hogan apex edge irons. also check out the golf digest 2009 hot list budget guide...they recommend Hireko golf's Acer XK irons which can be fitted with great shafts well under 300 dollars