ronin74

I would have to be with my wife. My priority would be to give the support my family needs at the time. The author referenced here poses the question, what if this is his year? Well, I pose the question, what if there are complications? Not being there at this time really would send a message to his wife that could be perceived as "You do your thing, I'll do mine." Which is not good.

I wish to introduce my 9 year old daughter to the game in an easygoing, relaxed manner that will in time allow me to share the joy I have on the course with a person I love.

My final driver pictures above's total weight is not unreasonable though. Now, when I did the original full pound head, that was tiring. Only had about 50 or so good swings in me with that one before my swing feel off the tracks.

Actually, no But I also do circuits making small swings with a 30' logging chain.

Was a bit busy today but got off a couple of quick pictures. The first is of the full club. The grip is a Percise Protrac. They are made by the AME grip company (think BMX and Motocross grips) with the same triangle pattern that AME is known for. They are durable, have a tacky feel, and are made in the USA at a reasonable cost. http://amegrips.com/precise-golf-grips/protrac One might notice he small dash of white paint I placed below the grip. This serves as a reminder for where the thumb of my bottom hand should be to increase the likelihood of a straight drive. It makes for a slightly more aggressive than neutral grip. The next pic is of the sole. This head was from a driver I picked up from callawaygolfpreowned for very little money, there are blemishes that I will take care of in due time, eventually. Notice the lead that I formed over the weight screws. The white around the lead is silicone that I filled the cavity with before seating the lead weights. This should secure the weights while also handling the vibration where more traditional adhesives might fail. According to my swing weight scale the club weighs just shy of 330g and measures (for those who still use swing weight) F5. The reason this works for me is that I have hands slightly softer than stone, maybe Maple or Bamboo, anyhow my hands are pretty insensitive. This setup lets me be able to sense the club's feedback from my inputs during the backswing and transition, my timing has greatly improved with this club. In comparison, standard built clubs for my swing get lost in the backswing and transition resulting in great inconsistencies. Maybe potentially longer shots, but definitely at the cost of turning the three holes near whatever tee I am using it at into a hard hat zone. Thank you for your patience with this thread with broken links as I found a place to host images.

No pictures at the moment. But I have some fair weather today. I will see what I can put together.

Continuing on: One day I boiler a swing trainer comprising of a driveway marker, a one pound block of wood and a golf ball. After my first session with it, I reflected upon how easy I it was to control my transition which seemed to result in many good swings. So I decided to build a driver based on the swing trainer. The first one I put together utilized an A flex idrive shaft by integra and a 10° Great Big Bertha clone head 2with enough hotmelt to get it's weight to 454g - one pound. As a proof of concept it worked well enough, 180 yard drives (about 30 yards of it was rollout) and only ever straight. This resulted in the creation of various other weights of clubheads: 454g - the pounder 180y only straight 340g - 3/4 pound 200y straight 300g - 2/3 pound 240y within 5y of straight So I decided to build my final driver. Using a r5 dual N, I removed the head from the shaft. I then set he head on its face and melted down two bullet fishing weights into the cavity on top of the weight screws. After the lead cooled, I whacked the face of the head with a plastic pipe to shake the newly molded weights free. I then set them back into their respective cavities using a layer of silicone to help with vibration. I installed a house brand shaft from a supplier that is now retired. The shaft is an A flex 75g shaft with 2.8° of listed torque and a somewhat firm tip. The playing length is 44.75". The head weighs similar to what a 5 wood does. There is enough flex at the transition from backswing to downswing for me to keep my timing. My typical drives are now 250 yards and within 10 yards of where I aimed. It was a fun experiment that produced helpful results for me.

I often in my spare time will dink around with various items, form hypotheses based on what I observe, the test the hypotheses out. One such case is my driver

My sympathy for your loss. If changing the shafts from your Tommy Armours to the AP1 heads is a question of CAN it be done, my is answer is always yes it can. However, the second question is of course SHOULD it be done, I would recommend against it. As far as I know AP1 iron heads are not an off the shelf item. It would seem as though a lot of resources would be spent too make 2 sets of irons into 1 set of irons and some spare parts. When I am in situations similar to yours, I ask myself if it is a good time to try something different. As an example, if you wanted to try Single or Dual length irons, this may be the time. As far as a source of used clubs, I have had good results with callawaygolfpreowned. http://www.callawaygolfpreowned.com/other-brands/ I look forward to hearing how this all turns out for you.

Can the verb form of buffalo turn into an adverb?

Hello my new friends, I have been looking for a welcoming place to discuss topics such as golfing, golf equipment, customization of said equipment, unique and innovative training drills, as well as topics concerning everyday life. I have been a member of other golf centered forums. Until recently, my primary forum was FGI. I think TST may be a better fit for me. I look forward to getting to know you all. ronin74