Lowcut

I could sell them delivered in lower 48 for $160. That’s basicay what I have into then.

I’m 100% in agreement on the gaps in the bag.

Well, I gamed these a little. And also some. X31 custom forged. Switched up and decided to reshaft and give another maybe a chance to become a great ball striker

I wanted to put these on the set. Unfortunately they max out at .540 diameter... bummer. 7-8 iron change completely, looks almost like a wedge. Nice to hear some other folks still think about gaming these lol. If you catch a wild hair. This set is available. Just looking to recoup shaft, grip and shipping cost and that’s it.

One of the problems with these heads is they vary from .560 to .562 in outside hozel diameter. Most modern ferrules run up to about .540. I found some that were black and plain that would have fit. But, That’s just not me lol... I found these in a .560 and the fit almost every iron perfect with a little finagle. Probabaly some of the best quality ferrules I’ve purchased TBH. What’s your opinion on them? like honestly?

Finally got around to finishing this set. 6.0 rifles, tour velvets, standard length and lie. Sort of took a gamble with the white ferrules but I think they look alright. I still can’t believe how good of shape they are in. Make sense they were with the original owner since the early 80’s. I was going to game them but they will sit for a while unless they get sold off.

Why thank you! I found the ferrules on amazon and was in love at first sight. Bought 30 of em. These sets will actually be for sale here shortly. I ended up Going to an AP2 714 because the price was too good. Anyhow, thanks!

My old - new to me situation started a joke (novelty) to be honest. I`ve only ever played blades and recently I have two 'old' blade sets I play on the regular. Wilson X31 Custom Forged and Wilson FG-17 Tour Blades. both got new shafts and grips. I'm just not a GI iron guy. My ball striking wont get any better if I am forgiven for a bad strike. That`s just my opinion. As an added bonus, it drives my playing partners crazy when I outscore them consistently with 36 year old equipment. If you can consistently score in the low to mid 80`s as a weekend warrior with old irons, and dead stop it attacking the pin, Id say do it to it bud!

Is there a market for 'restored' as in cleaned, polished, sharpened are-shafted and gripped? Not refinished, just beautifully restored. thanks.

This topic may have already been discussed. Do any other club makers here make trimming amount adjustments to account for hozel bore depth variations? For example. If I have a hozel bore of 1.35” and another that is 1.45”. Would it be in error to lessen the tip trim of the 1.35” by the 0.1 “ to account for the bore depth variation? I know if splitting hairs but I’m just that kind of guy when it comes to my own equipment. It’s the hobby machinest that’s got me messed. I’ve created an excel spreadsheet to input trim code chart data, the hozel depths and the shortest hozel depth. It then calculates the variation difference for the “adjusted tip trim” dimension. Understanding I may not feel the difference of 0.1”. Is there anything wrong per say with doing the adjustment? It’s may be more of a mind thing, a confidence that I’ve taken the equipment portion of this game out. Just execute the swing... Thanks in advance everyone.

Shot this inside, I need to fix the lighting. I’m noticing a rotation that ends in a change in the swing path. Does anyone see this and is it a problem? Sorry for the quality...

i slowed it way down and changed a filter. I will make some additional angles and repost. Thank you for the heads up @HJJ003 🤘🏼

I've been Playing Golf for: 5 years My current handicap index or average score is: low to mid 80’s My typical ball flight is: mid-low The shot I hate or the "miss" I'm trying to reduce/eliminate is: Pushed right video: I’ve been working through it and am striking the ball well, just pushing...

I wouldn’t doubt this at all. I’m almost thinking the knurling on the hozel May actually be press marked that squeezed the shaft upon epoxying. Who really knows right! Gotta love it though!

Let me know if I can answer anything. If your friend is a machinist they will be able to do most anything to bore the head if needed. If a shop could pull the shafts cleanly to measure the shafts before you buy them, that would be the best. Note, hosel outside diameters were a bit larger then. Probably around 0.560 OD ferrules would get you close for proper turning and finishing. Mine unfortunately were about a thou small. A little black epoxy filler to smooth the ferrule to hosel transition will be needed at some point. Look forward to seeing those!

You’d be surprised how forgiving the X31’s are 😉. I do strike the ball very well with them though. One good thing about butterknives, misses don’t go nearly as bad as with GI equipment. I’ve played about ten rounds with the X31’s and love them, blades are all I’ve ever played for that last 20 years, lots of fun!

No pins to speak of sir. Some pulled cleanly as any other iron would. Pictures attached were one that would not pull. You can see the straw colored heat oxidation on the outer hozel that would not remove with buffing. +- 450* f.

A properly pinched PW to make it check. I always push my dang 56 and 60 when at that range.

Arturo is dead right. Posture posture posture. I played 2* upright as well until I fixed my posture. Now about 1* with the correct length shafts +1/4-3/8”. I would go see a fitting pro, or even a local shop and have them sole marki tape each of your clubs. Hit several balls and gauge where you are at with each individual iron. Adjust to how each sole marking tape is indicating. At minimum I would hit the 3, 7 and PW to see if there is a trend and adjust all either flat or upright depending. For reference on how weird each person fitting is. I’ve see guys taller than me 6’, need to shorten the shafts because that had gorilla length arms and vise versa like me long torso regular arms need 1/4-3/8” long on everything... it’s a personal sport with personal fitments the way I see it.

Hello all, I’ve been looking at many posts related this above mentioned subject matter. That is what led me to join up here. I am almost complete with two quasi-restore projects on a set of 1980`s Wilson X31 `custom forged` 3-PW and a set of around the same year Wilson `FG-17` Tour Blades. 2-PW. When removing the shafts, several of them would not move, that was with heat to approx. 500 degrees and twisting the club head due to the internal `threading`. I didn't push it any further on heat due to fear of bubbling chrome and or creating an uneven temper to the club head. The shafts that did not cleanly pull basically broke off at the hozel when putting any real torque to remove them when heating. They were a bit rusty of course... This lead me to hozel boring. Not something I wanted to do since the hozels were .355 taper tipped and could have simply been replaced... I machined a boring jig and set it up on my milling machine to go ahead and bore the hozels to .372 using an undersized two flute carbide end mill then a sized reamer to clean out the hozel. If anyone is curious what some modern manufactures have for hozel bore diameter tolerances, its approx. (0.2mm) (0.007") on the top end of the tolerance from all the info I have been able to find on the web. When aligning the tooling the bore I was surprised that more than half of the bores were not centered in the hozel from the factory... I suppose the standard of manufacturing in 1980 were less than that of today with the big names. I confirmed the misalignment with a second set of the X-31`s I picked up as well. I was wondering if anyone else has noticed this on older equipment upon re-shafting I went with .370 FCM Rifles and PX flighted shafts as the replacements. The FCMs in the FG-17`s and the PX in the X31`s. Anyway, I wanted to show my polished and re-shafted progress, boring, re-shafting jig and fancy ferules. Thanks for looking and for any responses on the topic. PS. I fully intend to play both sets regularly. Cheers, Matt