boodaboy16

I've been Playing Golf for: 25 years My current handicap index or average score is: 80s-90s My typical ball flight is: mid-high The shot I hate or the "miss" I'm trying to reduce/eliminate is: block/leak to the right

Hi All, Wondering what your thoughts are on the flat vs upright swing plane and how to know which one is best for you? I am currently stuck between the two: Flatter plane (top clip): I feel like I am able to get closer to shallowing in transition and my impact lines up closer to my setup angle. Perhaps it matches my body type better as well. I could be potentially more repeatable and give me a consistent draw which would be nice. Upright (bottom clip): I feel like this swing is more conventional and is where I have been swinging the past several years. I like the higher ball flight it gives but I do struggle with consistency, trying to shallow in transition and getting too steep (blocking to the right). How do you guys know what the best swing plane is for you?

DG R300 for me. I like a heavier flexible shaft for feel. The weight and the flex allows me to make a smooth pass and load the shaft every time. I played DG shafts most of my life back and forth between S and R flex. I've tried to get used to the other iron shafts and here's my feedback summary: Nippon - too light and feel a little harsh even on pured shots Rifle - not bad, but the dispersion and distance control was not good enough Project X - boardy, butt stiff and really expensive, I don't get them at all.

Ascetics over performance?

I had to get away from thinking about what each manufacturer called a 2,3 or 4 hybrid and even what loft they were. Irons and hybrids hit so differently that you really have to test them out. Also, I had to think about what I wanted to use my hybrid for. I decided that I didn't simply want a 2-iron or 5wood replacement, but I wanted a club I could hit both off the fairway and the rough (so more of a rescue). My Titleist 21 degree hybrid gets me both, even though technically it is called a 3-iron replacement and I have a 3-iron too. The hybrid goes about 200 yards, where my 3-iron is about 190. Hope this helps.

I'd recommend considering different manufacturers. For example, I love Titleist drivers and can't imagine playing anything else. The aesthetics feel and playability are great for me. But, their fairway woods were a little to challenging and my V steel 3 wood is the best club in my bag. I agree with the other post. There are too many clubs and not enough time to test them all. Although, if you're just starting out and this is your first big set then I wouldn't worry about it too much for now.

Good question here. I just got a new 3 wood that I may cut down 1/2 inch for more consistency. I do have a 19 degree hybrid that is great for 200-210. But if I want 220+, or another option off the tee, the hybrid isn't the best option. I will say the 906 F4 is easy to hit off the deck. I've tried lower degree hybrids, I seem to lose the benefit if I go 17 or below

I owned the 906 F2 5 wood with the Aldila NV stiff 75g. I found that it went pretty straight with that shaft, but your swing speed might be higher than mine. I'm around 95 with a driver. I've hit the 906 with a steel too and didn't like it at all. Same with the 585H. I think these clubs were weighted best for graphite. I used to play steel in all woods up to a couple years ago and I still prefer steel to some degree, but I didn't like it with these heads. On the flip side, I still own a 19 Taylor Made Rescue Mid in stiff steel that is way better than the graphite version.

I have a pair of Ecco Casual Cool Ribbon (gray with a little neon green trim). They are pretty comfortable so far. I haven't walked 18 with them yet. I previously had a cheap pair of Nike's. They lasted a couple years but ran out of support.

One major reason that some pros don't play (but many still do) blades is that they are given a lot of money to play with that company's new club, which is marketed to a broader range of golfers - low to mid handicappers. It really doesn't matter what the pros play. They hit it flush nearly all the time. And they have swing coaches, caddies and their own expertise to give them feedback. I'm a mid handicapper and I play blades because they look better (thin topline, narrow sole), feel better and usually hit better. I got news for you, blades aren't all that tough to hit and they give much better feedback. Also, playing blades forces me to focus on making a smooth pass with good contact. That is my idea of a game improvement club.

Your swing speed may change with a heavier stiffer shaft. I've had mine clocked as high as 107 with a driver and a whippy stock shaft.

I'm not asking for anyone's help on this issue. I'm just responding to the thread that in my opinion the whole "all about carry" dogma is overrated.

I wouldn't use Tiger as an example that Mizuno irons are great clubs. That guy can hit anything. Besides, irons are very personal and it takes awhile to get comfortable with a set. Tiger probably didn't want to mess with a good thing (for him at least). I've had a set of Mizuno grads and I've demod several of the new Mizunos and I must say they are not the club for me. I find them somewhat difficult to hit and even when I pure it I am noticeably shorter in distance. I will say these irons are very crisp, if you like that feeling. I just prefer softer irons.

I agree, the 60 degree is ridiculous. Not long ago wedges higher than 56 or something were not allowed. The game was not intended to play with such high lofts. Then again it probably was not intended to have drivers the size of hedge trimmers either. I like Vokey and Cleveland. Look online, I got my 58 degree Vokey for 89.99 free shipping brand new last year. Believe it or not I think Nike makes a decent wedge too and they are much cheaper.

If you are hitting the ball 300 I'm guessing you have a pretty high swing speed. Although I think the stock shaft in the burner is probably 50 grams and the shaft is 46', so even myself at 95mph swing speed could probably get that 260-270 in the air. Anyway, if you want to lower spin and ball flight I'd recommend the UST Proforce V2 shaft. It's going to play much different than the stock shaft, and you may lose some distance but it will do what you want.

I still have my first set. They were hand me downs. Power Bilt Citation blades (circa 1980s). I hit them almost as good as my TA1s (circa 2000). And, if I had them reshafted they probably wouldn't play much different. It's possible cavity back clubs have changed some. I just posted earlier tonight about a thread on the titleist 775. I played with those a few rounds and they are absolute idiot sticks. You can hit the ball off center hit a bit and still get straight high ball flight. That said, I never played cavity back clubs until 5 years ago.

Never hit the other clubs. But I've played with the 775s and they are idiot sticks. THey have extra strong lofts and very low center of gravity. My mom could probably carry a 9-iron 130 with these clubs. Moreover, the lower or mid handicapper won't be able to work the ball well and should stay away from the 775s.

This seems okay for mid and short irons where you swing down more. Longer clubs, especially woods and the driver that require a sweeping impact will cause problems with tempo. It will take a lot of practice with this swing to get the same tempo for all your clubs.

Sure, it's obvious the ball rolls variably given certain conditions (uphill/wet). But carry is effected by the elements as well, mainly wind. I guess my main point was that I get almost the same carry with a lower launch angle driver, but a ton more roll. So, on average (most holes don't play uphill, and I don't play in terribly wet conditions often) I get more total distance - and the potential for some crazy distance (downhill or dry fairway). You and everyone else can sing all day long that it's all about the carry, but I just ain't listening.

Here, here. This is close to the point I was trying to make. I think all these equipment fitting machines/statistics are just a tool to help you make a decision. And, it is a tool that does not apply well for some individuals. I can't tell you how many times I've hit in a simulator and the salesperson starts telling me about spin, launch angle, blah blah and then I pick a shaft or club head that is supposed to lower one of those stats and instead it raises it. I'm not saying these statistics are total BS. But, whatever feels well and performs on the course is what I'm going to use. I'll even sacrifice a few yards. One other thought. We all know the driver swing can be very different than the iron swing. This fact, coupled with the length of the driver, provides for a lot of potential variability in the launch angle/spin rates within a person (both within a day and between days). This could be another cause for launch angle, spin stats to be misapplied.

I don't put much stock in the whole launch angle stuff. I hit my 983e 230-240 in the air with up to 20-40 yards of roll. With the 983k I get a higher launch, but roughly the same carry and little roll. I guess my point is that I like to maximize my roll rather than carry. I've tried many many drivers as I'm sure we all have, and my carry does not differ by more than 10 yards or so. For me, to hell with maximizing launch angle give me the extra 25 yards of roll with a low spinning head.

I think the feedback issue is really key. I don't think there is a magic number for a handicapp cutoff to use blades. I think if you are good enough to make adjustments in your swing when you mishit, then blades might be a good option. If not, you might get frustrated. Honestly, I hit my Cleveland TA1 blades better than any club I've ever hit. I bought mine used off Ebay for $250. When playing muscle backs, you have to pay attention to impact and follow through the hitting zone smoother with blades.

The face definitely looks more shallow on the f4. You can even see there is one less horizontal line on the face compared to the f2. I'm intrigued by this club but I'm concerned it might be most appropriate for those who play off very thin "greenlike" fairways (like at professional golf tournaments). I think the fairways at most public courses and even some private country clubs might be too fluffy and create some problems. And I can't imagine hitting this off the tee. I'd have to place it, or else it could be skyball city. That said, I'll probably get one eventually. For now, I ordered a 906f2 with the VS Proto 80. I am going to Cape Cod in a few weeks and I'll be playing a ton of golf. So, I couldn't wait for the f4 release. I had a 906f2 5 wood, but replaced it with a 585H 19 degree. But, I don't remember the f2 being difficult to hit off the deck. That's what makes me even more concerned that the f4 might be for those who play courses with primo fairways. Anyone else feeling like this?

Cleveland makes great irons. I have two sets of the TA1's. They are sweeeet! I haven't tried the new CG1 Black Pearls yet, but I here they are softer and a touch longer (probably due to the stronger lofts). I played with the 735s most of this season and missed the straight MB thin topline club. The Titleists were a little more forgiving, but the TA1's are straighter and more fun to hit. I demod the TM MB and didn't like them at all. But, I read that many people are crazy about them.

I agree with all your points here. How do you like your 983k? I'm moving toward the 983e.