Hollister

Yep, got one. Thought the same about its use for the last drives - way better than packing up. They feel more like range rockets or 2-piece distance balls. Hope I do not have to use it that often in the next weeks.

Yep - last years TaylorMade drivers had crazy high spin numbers compared to my 2007 TaylorMade. But last year we hit it like always, according to TM. And adjustability was more for TM and the resellers having to produce only one club type instead of many. This year we are hitting up. Yikes, 2+ degrees more loft. I would be happy if the free press (=journalists) would look behind the curtain and question, or even truly test, the new gear. But hey, it is a marketing world. If I had unlimited funds, I would feed a golf pro with a trackman weekly and buy the oldest, nicest Hogan clubs that play well... Wait a minute, already got em. Trackman, too. But the right pro is still missing. Thats why I suck soooo much. Or is it the clubs. Where was that GD list?

Still playing the ole clubs from 10years ago. The still refuse to wear out! Still hit the 2007 driver bad enough - does hitting a 2014 stick really make the ball go further/straighter and my swing flaws go away? Reading the list every Spring, I get the testing-bug. Last year I surrounded myself with all the TaylorMake drivers the range had to offer. My 2007 driver still performed OK. It already has four weights to move around - after testing each Spring I put them back to the default position. I think that adjustability is more for the soon-to-be-pros, way better players than me. No, I do not get the list. Why not add a style or beauty category? Or label the demand category "Like" or "Want"? Or have only drivers with co-sponsors included. The Cialis hybrid for demanding lies. The Vorsprung Durch Technik diver. How would the Dolce&Gabbana; driver look (worse than the Poults designs?)? Spring, I am ready. Bring on the new sticks, I will resist the temptation... Hopefully.

In case it helps anyone - here is a list of MPF shaft replacement codes http://www.golfworks.com/images/art/BenHogan.pdf

After a good nights sleep and looking-up the Rifle Flighted 6.0 shaft-flex, which equals a stiff or even stiff+, I do not really understand the correlation of shaft flex and performance of my particular sticks anymore. A too stiff shaft should let me leave ball short (or right?) when not having the appropriate swing speed. A too weak shaft should lead to ballooning balls, as I saw with my regular graphite shafts. Or lead to over-draws? Clueless. Maybe I should go and get fit for a set... FTX for windy days? That would be a luxury problem I'd like to avoid. I go test a higher trajectory ball next time on the course. Or get the shaft measured. Or do the fall into the c I have a 2 and 3 Hogan CFT ti hybrid with the stock stiff shaft, but I did not dare to take them to the course. Compared to my regular Taylor Made Burner 07 hybrids, they sound a little too dull for my taste, feel harsh and are way harder to hit properly. Struck well, they perform well, but sound unexpected for a hybrid.

Took those four to the range today and see, how the rifle flighted shaft would compare to the regular (clubs 1+2) Club 1: Apex 50th (2003), steel Rifle Flighted 6.0 shaft, 32,5 degrees (27 balls) Club 2: Apex 50th (2003), steel regular shaft Apex 3, 32,5 degrees (14 balls) Club 3: Apex Redline (1988), steel stiff shaft Apex 4, 33,5 degrees (17 balls) Club 4: Apex ftx (2006), steel regular shaft Apex 3, 30 degrees (20 balls) As if I was waiting for it - 2 degrees C (25 F), but new range balls. And wind into the boxes. Wind-chill is overrated when you try to murder the range stone trying to keep worm. At least the ball speeds were 10mph compared to last year, don't look at dispersion, side spin, etc. Been hitting So, these results are just relative to each other - compare the performance of the club/shaft. The performance of club 3, the Apex Redline blade from 88, amazes me. Feel-wise, I mishit it a couple of times. Compared to the other clubs the 6i has a lower loft - I should have taken the 30 degrees 5i to match the loft. Compared to the Apex 50, the FTX feels harsh or hard when you hit the ball, more like mishitting the Apex Redline. A pitty that I consider the new FTX to be my gamers. I did test the regular graphite shafted Apex Edge from 2001 again these clubs and it did well back then. Might try it next time again. I was about the sell the rifle flighted shafted clubs (club 2 is a lonely 6i, not a set). But hey, next round I take my would-love-to-make-em gamers, the Apex 99s with me. So far I did not dare to think I am able to hit the Apex 5 x-stiff shaft well enough. Ahh, that was fun. Winter could be soooo boring :D

I uploaded a picture of the shafts in the other thread . Oh, there are a couple of nice 03s and 99 on ebay right now. Pitty I am not in the US and would have to shell out another 100+ for tax and shipping. The 99 shaft has a Spalding on the red shaft band. The guy that sold me the Apex 5 shafted 99 said that it plays more like a stiff. And I think it does. Whereas the Apex 3 ftx iron feels more like a xx-stiff, because the ball flight is very low (and the shaft feels somewhat stiffer). The 03 with the Apex 3 shaft feels very nice to hit. Contrary to the ftx Apex 3 shaft, it flies way higher. Don´t know why... Regarding the driver, I toyed buying a Hogan driver, but came to the conclusion that my TaylorMade 2007 r7 425cc w/ regular OEM shaft is a nice one. I tried all the latest models at the range, but I see not much difference. Mine has a low spin rate and a piercing lower flight, which I like. I can hit up on it if needed.

Here is a photo of the clubs in the same order I hit them at the range with the TrackMan Range. The golf ball marks the last shaft step. Club 1: Apex Redline (1988), steel stiff shaft Apex 4, 33,5 degrees Club 2: Apex Blade (1999), steel x stiff shaft Spalding Apex 5, 32,5 degrees Club 3: Apex 50th (2003), steel Rifle Flighted 6.0 shaft, 32,5 degrees (no steps, flighted) Club 4: Apex ftx (2006), steel regular shaft Apex 3, 30 degrees Club 5: Apex 50th (2003), steel regular shaft Apex 3, 32,5 degrees Easy to see: stiffer Apex shafts are stepped further down to tip. I hit the ftx last week and compared it to the Apex 50th (club 4 vs. club 5). The ball flight of the latter is way, way higher. Either the shafts differ in performance or the head itself. Maybe the golfer, too, but I made sure by vigorously switching clubs..

The gist of what I read was, that they were not liked, because the felt a little harder compared to the 88 and 99 or 2003 model. Design-wise they look like a copy of copy of a nice piece. Hit the 2003 model today (Apex 50) and it felt sure nice. Nicer than my FTX today... Over at golfwrx are a few reviews of the 2006 blade.

Photo is missing... I had a look at the steps of my clubs - they differ in height. That design would allow to move the kick-point higher or lower. Higher kick-point results in a higher ball trajectory. So, one has to figure who made the shafts in order to compare them (Royal Precision was a long running OEM fitter). Somewhere I read that Hogan Apex shafts from 1988 and earlier were known to have a lower kick-point than comparable shafts.

Ah, another Hogan fan. Great! The guy who sold the 99s to me said, that the Apex 5 shaft does play more like a stiff shaft (or even less). Comparing the TrackMan numbers you see that the Apex 5 hit balls have the highest trajectory (see height and landing angle). And yes to the club heads. I always thought that the FTX were more for mid to low handicappers should fly a little higher, but they do not. Next time I take the 7i FTX with 34 degrees of loft. Regarding the numbers, I will try it again in the next days. I could be that I did not hit the balls that good with a winter parka on, it was freezing back then. See dispersion? I might not have hit the ball high enough on the club face from the frozen mats. I am a pretty average golfer and am getting about 148 yards in carry from a 6i, roll depending on the course condition.

Hmm, ever thought about using foam balls? At least when hitting the driver with full force into a net? But don't try these whiffer balls...

Priceless... Could one please give Stretch some monkey award quick @( 'o' )@

Well, good to know. Then the average good golfer would see different results hitting 9,5° drivers, right? I am still playing old stuff, but was thinking about getting an R11, R11s or maybe an R1 - until I hit the R1. Compared to my old R7, there was not much gain to justify the change. Sad, but true. I try it again in late Summer. I think that my swing is still the challenge to get more distance, not the new driver. Next I try to hit a few and have a TrackmanPro "look" at my drives and the AOA/dynamic loft. Will report later.

Been tinkering with the driver over the past weeks, especially after seeing Mayo and James hitting-up-on-the-driver videos. Then I read this article yesterday: I went like "suuurrrre"... Go figure. I still play the R7 425 10.5° from Taylor Made which gives a nice, piercing ball flight. OK, carry is 230 max plus a healthy 30 to 40 yard roll in dry conditions. Am trying to hit up on the ball, but still struggle to keep balance with the forward ball position and not push it. Today I grap the 2008 Taylor Made Burner 10.5° driver of my golf buddy and try to hit up as usual. The ball went way up high in the air - really high - and landed at 230 with no roll. I hit twice the exact distance with it. I never hit such trajectory with a driver before. Both drivers have 10.5° printed on the hosel, but perform totally different. Now I think the guys writing the above article may have been right. And I begin to see why the drivers with the adjustable may be a very good idea and investment. They are able to grow with your abilities to hit up on the ball. Need help, go to 12° - get better, lower it to 10 or even 8°. Well, now I hurry and change the movable weights of my driver to promote a higer trajectory, might get a little more carry...

Quote: Originally Posted by iacas I think I've already done that thread. Some things take longer than others, but if you practice using the 5 S , you'll see progress all the time. I don't think you should be "patient." If you're not changing the picture a little EVERY day, EVERY time you practice, you're wasting your time. I want results IMMEDIATELY. They may not show up on the course right away, they may not be HUGE changes right away, but if you get 1% better at that thing you're trying to do, that's progress. Well, that language thing again. Progress vs. patience. Patience like in be ready to "wait for the good things to come" when doing as you prescribe, work hard and systematic. Common wisdom : Patience (or forbearing) is the state of endurance under difficult circumstances, which can mean persevering in the face of delay or provocation without acting on annoyance/anger in a negative way; or exhibiting forbearance when under strain, especially when faced with longer-term difficulties. Patience is the level of endurance one can take before negativity. It is also used to refer to the character trait of being steadfast. Being on golf distance-learning for 18 months was great, but in retrospect I did not fully understand what I have been told to do. That language thing again, plus the lack of knowledge at what to look and check when practicing. In-person training would have been better back then. Next time I make sure to ask for simpler, understandable orders! Good things will come, sometimes they just take a while longer. Patience, monkey, focus on one thing at a time...

Call it trust and I am on your page, Erik. In order to follow suit (obey lika a monkey if you will), one needs to see results eventually. When will you publish a thread on patience?

Got it - more extension and the curve gets right. Great video, thanks James (and Joseph Mayo )!

I never ever curved the ball with the driver that much and that high - even with the range rocks. Am eager to hit the course trying it with real balls and see how far they go. In order to have the ball curve less, I either open the club more (and get even higher balls) or move the ball a bit back again?

I began with Apex Edge irons from 2001 and still like them. The regular graphite shaft gets to be a little soft on my (balloning shots), distance is still OK. I am currently messing around with different Apex blades for fun. If you mishit them, you loose much distance - bet you already figured that out, I guess. The Apex Edge from 2001 or 2006 are a good choice. You could look at buying cheap single irons and try them (or look at the guys Hogan clubs at your place). I own a BH-5 6i and do not like it. It is a cast club and does not has the feel/sound of a forged club. The FTX form 2006 is nice to play, too. I read a lot of not so favorable remarks about the CFT irons, but have never played one. I am eager to try the Apex Pro sometime, too. Oh, btw, the Hogan Bettinardi putters are really nice, too.

Was out with the Apex 99 blades today - they were not that easy to hit. Played 12 over and a few bad iron shots added to that result. Am still figuring out the yardages, but if I hit it too slow or off center, I get 5 to 15 yards or more less distance. Well, the Apex 5 shafts dont help in that regard either. Still fun to play 15yo sticks. Going with the 25yo Redlines Apex 4 shafts is even harder to do - they are a little less forgiving and have even lower lofts. No, I will not carry a 2i. Maybe I go mix the sets a little in thre long irons. Overall it is fun. And I love the looks of my battered sticks.

Thanks for the video, Mike. James gave me the "right elbow to the navel" motto via evolvr a while ago. Been pondering it since - and trying to make it work since then. Problem is, I tend to hit ground behind the ball when trying it (like you show it at the beginning of the video). When I look at Sergio at A6 (foreswing, shaft parallel to the ground), his elbow is at his side. Compare yourself at 6.05 with the practice moves earlier - your right elbow is nowhere near the navel, too. I do understand that the idea "elbow to the navel" should prevent the separation of the elbows. Wouldn't be concentration on reaching a proper A6 the better goal: right palm facing away from you, shaft parallel to the ground? Wouldn't going to A4 (top of the swing) and simply letting your arms fall to A6 give you the basic arms motion?

My first irons were Apex Edge from 2001. Now I have four different Hogan sets. But I have to warn you: Do not look at Apex Blades! They are so effing nice..., if you can hit em.

I do not like modern GI irons either... When in doubt, just buy a used iron cheap from ebay and try it out. Hit it on the course and see, how you fare with it. The MX25 has a cavity back and positioned for handicaps around 20 and below. Try before you buy. @Prodaytrader Conspiracy? Sure... Why dont you buy used stuff off ebay - no questions asked.

It depends on whether there still are collectors around, which are interested in brand new clubs. As a Hogan irons fan I am watching ebay auctions for quite a while. New Hogan blades seldom sell for 750+ $, Euros or GBP, used ones dont over 350. A graphite shafted GI oriented club from the past should be even harder to sell than blades.