John105

Does that calculator mean I get to claim a 300 yard average?

I lost it the last time I played. Hit more houses than GIR

I guess my counter-point would be that billions of deer have been killed with long bows, but when I go bow hunting, I make sure to bring my new compound bow with me cause I need all the help I can get.

So what do putter makers use to keep a consistent and true roll? IE is there something specific to look in that respect for when buying a putter?

I hit my irons around those distances and don't get near 350

Would the seam cause problems if you use the label that sits on it to line up putts?

I know the grooves you see on many putter inserts are to increase topspin, etc, but is it a big enough impact to actively search for those grooves when buying a new putter?

Almost makes up for the discrimination we have to deal with from club makers and shops. Perfect example was Callaway releasing the X-24s in only RH initially. Cost them a sale when I was forced to go with TM Burner 09s

6i, PW, and putter

Golf is the best excuse to dress crazily.

Kind of a vicious cycle for me. I ended up with a lot of Taylormade gear just because I chose to get a set of irons from then and got the $100 TM bucks. When I needed a new driver, the R9 460 being $100 cheaper than the competition kinda made my decision for me.

I have about a 30-40 yard gap between my 4 iron and my 5 wood (18*) so I've been contemplating the best way to fill that gap. I just don't know much about Hybrids and the other options. It'd be nice to have a club that I could turn to on the long, but reachable, par 5s. Any suggestions or just basic information would be appreciated. Thanks

Played a course yesterday that had the tee boxes way too close to the previous greens. We were on the tee of a drivable par 4 so I let it rip. Unfortunately it sliced a bit and flew right between two guys teeing off on the next hole. My FORE yell allowed them to scatter, but obviously I felt bad. Closest I've come to smoking someone so far

Made my first trip to a PGA Superstore in ATL yesterday. I was in shock as to how amazing it was. They had free chipping areas, like twelve launch monitor stations, a huge putting area and even an indoor sand trap. If I wasn't an hour away, I'd probably be in there everyday. Plus, I ran into a mint condition CG15 54 degree wedge for 59.99. Guess it pays to be left-handed sometimes cause the deals don't get immediately snapped up

After giving it some thought, you're right. It would prob end up costing me half of what a new club would cost so I'll prob just get a new one with a couple degrees less loft and much less bounce.

The problem is I have a fitted left-handed wedge so Ebay doesn't seem likely to work as well. I'd like to see if Cleveland would do it, but I can't find their email address for some reason.

How difficult is it for a golf shop to grind down a wedge to get lower bounce? Would there be any drawbacks or unintended consequences? Besides the obvious lower bounce

I will be having someone look at my swing in the future for sure. The whole shaft idea came from experimenting with choking up on my driver and how it made a big difference. I turned a reoccuring bad hook into a little bit of a draw on an otherwise straight ball by choking up

The first year is tough for sure. Just remember to work your butt off because you'll never look back and think, "Man, I wish I hadn't worked so hard." However, you might think the opposite if you don't work as hard as you could. I'm at the University of Kentucky

I meant lessons plural. I wasn't considering the fact that one lesson could fix it all. My time constraints are going to basically limit me to 18 holes in a Friday law school league and that's it. I guess my thinking is that the shaft will most likely make a difference even if I also take lessons. So it's not like I'm thinking that it will be the total quick fix or cure-all for my problems.

I'm really not expecting a fix per say. Just looking for some help in mitigating the problem. I know a lot of the problem is me, but I also feel like the shaft and length may be exacerbating the problem. Also, I'm confused about ordering a shaft online. They say it is 46" uncut. Would having a golf shop cut it down to 44.75 or 45 change the flex to even stiffer? I know the swing weight gets changed, but I don't really know the actual issues that may bring about

l........o........l

Thanks buddy, that was exactly what I was looking for. I just have no knowledge on the subject, and I definitely don't like going into a purchase without at least a decent amount of background knowledge. Also, I know that lessons and such would be better. The problem, however, is that I am in law school and it's just not plausible for me to get lessons. It saves me a lot of precious time to go about it this way.

I thought I provided answers to those questions, but I'll try again. I can't get the ball high at all. It's like a line drive. Gave my approximate swing speed (115). Have had success, albeit small sample size, gripping down on the club to remove a lot of the hook I was battling. Want more control and accuracy over a need for distance. I'm just trying to understand my options before I go in and put myself at the mercy of someone trying to sell me something

I have been thinking about getting my TM R9 460 reshafted, but I know very little about what I should be looking at. I'm currently in a huge funk with the driver (Lot of hooking), and last round I experimented with choking up on the club. Seemed to work, and it definitely cut down the hook to more of a slight draw. I'm two years out of NCAA D1 baseball so distance isn't an issue for me (Been around long enough to not bother posting any distance estimates). If I remember correctly, my swing speed was around 115, but I'm not totally sure. My two problems are control/accuracy and the inability to get the ball very high. So, that being said, what should I look for in a new shaft?