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TaylorMadeTaylor

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About TaylorMadeTaylor

  • Birthday 11/30/1994

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    Virginia

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  • Index: 9
  • Plays: Righty

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  1. Every day. I hit 2-4 buckets a day depending on how much time I have and what I'm working on. I have a membership to a good driving range that has nice real grass to hit off of, nice balls, and lots of target flags to hit to. It's alot of practice, but I'm really trying to work hard to get good at this game.
  2. Ping anser, playing it 33.5" and 1* flat with the blackout grip. It's cheap, simple and the putts I roll with this thing just seem to want to go in. Not coming out of my bag for a while.
  3. Using these currently. They're great grips if you have the hands for them, but they've given me some gnarly calluses. I think I'm going back to TV full cords.
  4. A better more powerful golf swing is what will get you more distance off the tee. Once you have that, get custom fitted for a driver.
  5. My home course features the most cruel, evil hole ever to be played by man. It is the 11th hole, Par 4 386y, slight dogleg right. First of all on the tee box you have low hanging pines on the right, so a draw is impossible to play because you would be forced to start the ball there. There is a small lake on the left and large fairway bunkers just beyond it. The right side is nothing but a huge lake that snakes along the entire hole up to the dome shaped green, which is guarded by deep bunkers on both sides and has a steep false front. The fairway is rounded, so anything not within the core 10 yards will feed off into the water. About 260 yards out (which just so happens to be my landing area for drives) the already narrow fairway bottlenecks until it is impossibly thin, and right there is what we call "the funnel" which is a severely sloped bowl that is invisible from the teebox that will suck seemingly perfect drives into the water (and you don't know it went in until you get there). Here's what happens: -I snap hook my drive into the the lake left -I over-draw my drive into the bunkers left -I push my drive straight onto the low hanging pines -I slice my drive into the lake right -I flush one right up the fairway only to find out that it "funneled" into the lake The approach goes: -Take a drop after any of the aforementioned scenarios only to put it back in the water -I put it in one of the hard packed wet bunkers near the green -I actually hit the green, only to putt it back off the green thanks to unfairly cut hole locations on the retardedly steep slope The score: -Never birdied -Parred less than ten times -Bogey is a good score -Double probably most common -Triple happens relatively often -Quad is always a possibility -Double digit score is recorded every so often -Made a 14 on it once
  6. Playing 8 years and no ace. Not even any really close calls either.
  7. After all this banter I've acutally decided not to go with the 64*. II spent all day at the practice green today with my 60* and I realized it is enough loft. Maybe it would be nice to have a little extra spin, but don't fix what aint broke. Still replacing my wedges, though. My close friend showed up in the middle of my session today with a brand new xFT 60* (what a pleasant suprise!) and he let me use it. I really liked it. It played very similar to my Z TP wedges and has the ability to exchange the grooves. I'll be picking these up in 50.06* (which I will have bent to 48* as my pitching wedge), 56.12* and either 60.06* or a 60/10* with a c-grind sole. So here is my question. Which 60* should I go with? I'm a hard digger with my wedges and make divots the size of the grand canyon, so I know the 60.10* will work better for me on full shots. I'm worried about the greenside shots though, as I rarely hit a full 60*. The 6* is already a low bounce, but the 10* has a c-grind so the leading edge won't sit so high when opening the face. So the big question is: which wedge will have more effective bounce when the face is opened, the 60.06* or the 60.10*?
  8. That's just a bag I've been using lately in hopes of getting my game back in shape, I'll use it for weekday practice rounds. I don't know why I put it in my sig, I guess just to look cool. But, yeah. I do plan on matching the PW to my wedge set. It's not that I can't hit a variety of shots with my 60*, because I can. The whole idea behind the 64* is to be able to fly the ball closer to the hole around the green and have it stop quicker. I find this the easiest way for me to get up and down vs. having a shot release to the hole. As for the ballstriking, i'm working on it. I would like to hit more greens, but obviously I'l never be hitting 100% and sooner or later I'll need to get up and down. But, by the way you say it it seems your assuming I'll be using it as a specailty club, using it only when I'm really short-sided or in a tight spot. This is not the case. I'd like this club to replace my 60*, using it for the majority of my greenside shots, just with a little more loft and spin on the shot. All good points, but this isn't an "I suck with my 60* and am going to try a 64* wedge" type of ordeal. I can use my 60* just fine, I'm great with it actually. Again, I'm just looking to be able to fly the ball closer to the hole with more spin. I can (and do) already hit shots like this with an open faced 60*, but would like to be able to do this with a square face, as I feel I will have better directional control that way. Keep in mind I'll also have the 56* if I'm looking for a little more rollout and the 48* which can be easily used for bump and run, so I think I'll have all of the shots covered. Just looking for any other suggestions of wedge setups that I'll consider.
  9. I'm very confident with my 60* and it's my go to club for most shots within 85 yards. Other than the putter, it is my most used club in the bag. I would like a lob wedge with a little more loft though, probably 62* or a 64* I either want to go with 48*, 56*, 62* or 48*, 56*, 64* I'm leaning towards the latter, but does 8* gaps between wedges sound like too much? I rarely hit full wedges as I play a big course where I have a 7 or 8 iron into the par 4s. But, I'm worried about that being a hard transition as I currently play 48*, 52*, 56*, 60*. Here will be the final compisition: Driver - 9* 3-wood - 15.5* Hybrid - 18* 3-Iron - 21* 4-Iron - 24* 5-Iron - 28* 6-Iron - 32* 7-Iron - 36* 8-Iron - 40* 9-Iron - 44* 48* Wedge 56* Wedge 64* Wedge Any thoughts or other suggestions?
  10. ^Yea the gamers are undoubtedly the best ball for $20 a dozen right now. If your looking to go cheaper with similar performance the top flite D2 feel is also good. They go for a buck a ball and I also believe they are the best for that price category.
  11. Going to be getting some new wedges soon and the ones I want are only available in conforming grooves. I was thinking a good way to combat this would be to simply buy a wedge with more loft. I normally use a 56* and 60* but I was thinking about going 56* and a 64*. I do all of my chipping with my 60* (minus bunker shots) and I'm a guy who likes to land the ball as close to the hole as possible and stop it quick. I think a 64* would do fill this role very nicely. But I have heard of it being a very unpractical club that lacks versatility. Does any here use of have used a 64* wedge? What are you thoughts?
  12. Absolute crap in my opinion. Top flite are much better for cheapies.
  13. Happened at my home course last year: pushed my tee shot (3 wood) into a lake, took a drop and was faced with a 180 yard shot around a dogleg with the ball well below my feet in thick rough, luckily the hole was dogleg right, so the fade lie didn't hurt so much. I grabbed a 5 iron and thwacked it out around the dogleg to the back of the green, then was faced with an impossible put of about 50 feet with retardedly insane amount of elevation change (big valley halfway to the hole) which breaks like four times. Read it as best I could and hit it hoping for the best, letting loose a HUGE fist pump as it rammed into the back of the hole. Still can see it going in if I close my eyes, and still can here my Friend (who I was playing against) yelling "are you f**king kidding me?" when he found out he lost the match.
  14. My old home course was just hard packed mud in the tee boxes, the fairways were mostly crabgrass and were kept the same length as the rough, and the greens were half dirt and had many crabgrass patches, and the bunkers had virtually no sand and were hard as conctete. Your course could be worse, trust me. That being said, I swiched to a much nicer course and no longer play there. I suggest you do the same if you are upset with the condition of your course.
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