Mp-32

[wrx_junki]

Bought a demo 6 iron off of eBay to try how blades hit. Only tried it at the golf range and I've been hitting mostly draws or push shots. Also, the blades seem to go shorter than my cavity backs. Is this usually the case?

Definitely harder to hit straight with the blades. Will try it out on the course tomorrow.

*EDIT* Just realized its a S300 shaft compared to a #4 Ben Hogan shaft. Not sure how those 2 relate in stiffness.

[hrossroth]

I found two new, never before hit irons in the $10 bag at my local course. They were both MacGregor, one was the Pro M (blade) and the other was the Pro-C (milled cavity). I spent a little bit of time on the range comparing them to my own forged cavity backs. Later, I would somewhat regret not just buying the two, just to have.

I found that compared to my cavity backs, the ball did not jump of the face and as a result I wasn't getting as much distance. This is by no means saying that this will be true with all blades. I think that what I was experiencing was the extra built in forgiveness in the cavity backs. The main component that I was testing was softness in feel. I was satisfied with how my irons compared to the Macs so I was basically done. If I had purchased the irons I think that a good drill would have been to learn how to get the maximum distance with each swing, without swinging harder.

[wrx_junki]

I found two new, never before hit irons in the $10 bag at my local course. They were both MacGregor, one was the Pro M (blade) and the other was the Pro-C (milled cavity). I spent a little bit of time on the range comparing them to my own forged cavity backs. Later, I would somewhat regret not just buying the two, just to have.

What # irons are they? Might be interested in taking them off your hands.

[tonyy]

Your results are the same as mine was. My S300's were a bit shorter than my DCI's but a lot more accurate. I was also having a slight push or fade when I first played with the S300's but after a few range sessions, I got used to the heavier shaft. After that, I could work the ball to my will.

[wrx_junki]

Your results are the same as mine was. My S300's were a bit shorter than my DCI's but a lot more accurate. I was also having a slight push or fade when I first played with the S300's but after a few range sessions, I got used to the heavier shaft. After that, I could work the ball to my will.

Just curious what's your SS for your 6-iron?

[Stacey_E]

Some of the reasons blade irons MIGHT go shorter:

1. Weaker lofts - anywhere from 1-4*
2. Heavier shaft - this will lead to a slightly slower clubhead speed
3. Higher swing weight - this could reduce clubhead speed
4. Higher center of gravity - this equates to a lower launch angle
5. A more tentative swing - It's just easier to go hard at SGI iron

None of these factors have a huge effect on distance. Maybe a yard or two each. But when you compound each of these factors you could see a club/club and a half difference. This is just my opinion though, and somewhat of a shot in the dark. All things being equal, I don't thing blades hit shorter. But with blades vs. cavities, all things are rarely equal.

[wrx_junki]

I was thinking of moving onto blades from my cavity backs but even with my cavity backs I'm around an average hitter. Don't want to sacrifice anymore distance. I guess I gotta learn to lag it better since I certainly am not efficient in my swing.

[Sunset Beach Golf]

Bought a demo 6 iron off of eBay to try how blades hit. Only tried it at the golf range and I've been hitting mostly draws or push shots. Also, the blades seem to go shorter than my cavity backs. Is this usually the case?

MP-32's almost definately have weaker lofts than anything you are playing now. The offset (actually lack thereof) could be causing the pushes (by looking like the face is square when it is actually open) draws could be from overcompensation or a number of other issues.

[Stacey_E]

I was thinking of moving onto blades from my cavity backs but even with my cavity backs I'm around an average hitter. Don't want to sacrifice anymore distance. I guess I gotta learn to lag it better since I certainly am not efficient in my swing.

Have you considered a 1/2 set of blades 7-PW? I'll admit I'm no better than an average hitter on distance. At about the 6 iron I need more game improvement to help my launch angle and use my slower clubhead speed efficiently. But from the 7 iron down I can take advantage of the scoring and accuracy advantages of a players' iron or blade. I hope that made some kind of sense.

[elchene]

I have two sets of 32s in my house, one with R300s and one with S300s. I think I hit the regulars a little longer (maybe 3 yards) and I'm more prone to hitting fades with the S300s. A shaft that is too stiff usually tends to go right. The main thing was the feel, the R300s feel much better for my swing speed and impact is much sweeter. If distance is a concern and you don't hit the blades straighter than the cavities, then you should probably stick with the cavities. If feel and workability are your main concerns, then just keep practicing with the 32s.

[wrx_junki]

Have you considered a 1/2 set of blades 7-PW? I'll admit I'm no better than an average hitter on distance. At about the 6 iron I need more game improvement to help my launch angle and use my slower clubhead speed efficiently. But from the 7 iron down I can take advantage of the scoring and accuracy advantages of a players' iron or blade. I hope that made some kind of sense.

I can't see the distance being consistent with mixing cavity backs and blades. So I'd like to keep it all blades or cavity backs.