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Posted
I'm getting to the point where I can work my blades a little. I've noticed that the weight is placed ever so slightly towards the heel and pretty high on the clubhead. I'd like to learn to fade/draw and cut better. Am I going to want to use different places on the face to hit different shots?

Also, I still have a bit of push/slice problem with my driver. What's the offset of the clubface have to do with this? My current driver is not offset, but would that help a bit?

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Posted
I'm getting to the point where I can work my blades a little. I've noticed that the weight is placed ever so slightly towards the heel and pretty high on the clubhead. I'd like to learn to fade/draw and cut better. Am I going to want to use different places on the face to hit different shots?

No, you don't want to use different places on the face to hit different types of shots. At the risk of oversimplification, generally hitting the ball with the face slightly open or using an outside/in swing will cause a fade/slice. Hitting the ball with the face slightly closed will cause a draw/hook. One easy way to hit a draw/hook would be to use a "stronger" grip than usual (meaning that you can see 3-4 knuckles on your left hand at address) and swing normally (this will cause a closed face at impact creating a counter-clockwise spin on the ball that will create a draw/hook). A way to hit the fade/slice would be to use a weaker grip than usual (meaning you can only see 1 knuckle on the left hand at address) (this will cause an open face at impact creating a clockwise spin on the ball that will result in a fade/slice).

You state that your blades already have the weight centered higher on the clubhead; this will tend to keep the ball low and allow more working of the ball. All of this assumes, of course, that you are using a ball that actually can draw/fade, e.g. a performance/high spin (expensive) ball like ProV1, TP Red, Callaway Tour, etc. and not a distance/low spin (cheaper) ball like Pinnacle, Titleist SoLo, Bridgestone e7, Callaway Big Bertha, etc. Offset is usually built into clubs to help the golfer "square" the face at impact and therefore decrease the possibility of hitting a slice. All else being equal, a driver with no offset will tend to hit a slice/fade easier than one with offset; a "push" is a different thing altogether. I am certainly no expert; I trust that some other members will be able to add to this. Good luck!

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Posted
What's the difference of opening the clubface and taking a stronger grip? I can't hit the ball to save my life if I open or shut the clubface with a neutral grip. I've struggled some with a strong right hand which often resulted in a slice.

Do you only change one hand or both? For a draw, do you use a neutral right hand and strong left hand? Vica versa with a fade, neutral left hand and strong right hand? Or one strong and one weak both ways?

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Posted
Ok.. the thing about most blades is the sweet spot is very small in comparison to most other irons. What this requires is an extremely constistant and sound swing technique. Thats why you see alot of pros and low single digit handicappers playing them. Its not changing the spot that make you contact, its being able to change things in your setup, grip, swing path, ect. that allow you to work the ball with clubs like that. Personally, I can hit em but I can't play my most effective golf with them so don't much experience with them. Therefore, I can't give a really good answer. But my suggestion to you would be go to a good pro and take afew range lessons and a playing lesson and they should be able to help you.

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Posted
I think Paperclip has it pretty well nailed in a very understandable way.

To attempt to answer Zeph's question;
Opening / Closing the club face changes what you see, which depending on individual habits, could result in attempting to correct what doesn't look right while swinging. It is kind of like how beginners come over the top. So changing the grip may work best since you look at it once, then focus on your club/ball.

Now as far as grip adjustment changes goes, changing one hand will change the other. The hand position relationship should be consistant between the two hands. The difference is in the rotation of the total grip (weak/strong/neutral). I hope that helps.

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Posted
What's the difference of opening the clubface and taking a stronger grip? I can't hit the ball to save my life if I open or shut the clubface with a neutral grip. I've struggled some with a strong right hand which often resulted in a slice.

My suggestion on changing your grip to work the ball is DON'T. Use your usual, assuming "correct" for you, grip and adjust your alignment and/or ball position and you will be able to hit draws and fades.

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Posted
One should never underestimate the importance of the mental aspect of golf, so it sounds reasonable. In all practicality you do exactly the same, but instead of having a neutral grip and open/shut clubface to look at during the adress you look at a square clubface and strong/weak hands. One must be strong, the other equally weak.

Someone with a bad grip don't have a problem hitting balls right all the time. But if the same person take a neutral grip and open the clubface, making a somewhat good hit is much harder.

In the end, the quality of the swing will probably be what matters most. Setting up with open or shut clubface should work, but if you don't have a good enough swing it won't work.

Ogio Grom | Callaway X Hot Pro | Callaway X-Utility 3i | Mizuno MX-700 23º | Titleist Vokey SM 52.08, 58.12 | Mizuno MX-700 15º | Titleist 910 D2 9,5º | Scotty Cameron Newport 2 | Titleist Pro V1x and Taylormade Penta | Leupold GX-1

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Posted
Also, I still have a bit of push/slice problem with my driver. What's the offset of the clubface have to do with this? My current driver is not offset, but would that help a bit?

If you can hit your blades consistently, it's not the offset of your driver that's the issue, and I don't think a driver with "offset" is a long term answer, and may not be a short term answer either, because very different swing issues can cause what you are describing. I would get some help with that because it's a swing issue. If it's the wrong cause you adress by getting a driver with more offset, your effect will be worse.

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AP1 4,5; AP2 6-P; Vokey 252 08, SM56 14, SM60 08 (Nippon N.S. Pro 950GH Regular)
Newport 2 Mid Slant


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