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Posted

Hi i am attempting to build my first set of irons.

I have iron heads with an hosel ID of .370 and parallel shaft tips that are .370 but when I join them there is a little bit of play not much but it is there.

There is just enough play to have the shaft pull out, a tad bit tighter and it would be snug. Is this amount of play to allow for the epoxy?


Posted

Did you remember to abrade the shaft tip to remove the chrome?

If you want to make extra sure it will be a good bond, mix the shafting epoxy with shafting beads. They're like little ball bearings smaller than sand that keep the shaft centered and help strengthen the bond.

Good luck! What are you building, by the way?

In My Bag:

Adams Super LS 9.5˚ driver, Aldila Phenom NL 65TX
Adams Super LS 15˚ fairway, Kusala black 72x
Adams Super LS 18˚ fairway, Aldila Rip'd NV 75TX
Adams Idea pro VST hybrid, 21˚, RIP Alpha 105x
Adams DHY 24˚, RIP Alpha 89x
5-PW Maltby TE irons, KBS C taper X, soft stepped once 130g
Mizuno T4, 54.9 KBS Wedge X
Mizuno R12 60.5, black nickel, KBS Wedge X
Odyssey Metal X #1 putter 
Bridgestone E5, Adidas samba bag, True Linkswear Stealth
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Posted

they are golf smith XPC v9 and Apollo Acculite Spectre Lite Iron Shaft. with some budget grips. It is all budget really.

My concern is even with the chrome on they have the play I am talking about. Are the beads mandatory I thought the epoxy would be enough


Posted

The play is fine.  If ever you get a great deal of play as in a mismatched sizes I just  fill the space with fiberglass cloth. The epoxy then has a fibrous bridge to impregnate. I never heard of shafting beads and the metal things that look kind of like badminton shuttle cocks are pointless. I just use fiberglass cloth. If it is snuggish then epoxy is all you need.

One note. Make sure the shaft is hollow and not plugged. If plugged it acts like a piston and it is a bear to get the wet epoxy shaft in there. This happens when reusing shafts. Use a drill bit to open up previously used shafts.

Also lubing and sliding ferrules down to meet the head may dent of deform the ferrule. Acetone and a cloth will resurface and smooth the ferrule again.


Posted

Thanks , I was thinking there had to be a little room for the epoxy, is my thinking correct in that the ferrules will center the shaft, my ferrules are the same OD as the hosel OD. I plan up pushing up the ferrules with the hosel. My thought is if the ferrule is on the shaft and it lines up  with the hosel and i keep that alignment til it cures I am pretty close to being on center.

One more thing I was considering was spining the shaft is this video accurate in it's method:


Posted

The furrules will only center if you have those that enter the hosel. Callaway does that on some.  If the ferrule is off when done and you are worried about it then break out the acetone.

I never worried about spline. Tom Wishon in his book Search for the Perfect Golf Club  page 124 says that there are only  two reasons to be concerned about splines. 1) you actually notice something that you attribute to a wobble due to spline. or 2) You are a golf nut who must do everything.   The jury is still out.

As far as the video goes if you want to do it then do it as it can't hurt.


Posted
Originally Posted by Jon Robert

The furrules will only center if you have those that enter the hosel. Callaway does that on some.  If the ferrule is off when done and you are worried about it then break out the acetone.

I never worried about spline. Tom Wishon in his book Search for the Perfect Golf Club  page 124 says that there are only  two reasons to be concerned about splines. 1) you actually notice something that you attribute to a wobble due to spline. or 2) You are a golf nut who must do everything.   The jury is still out.

As far as the video goes if you want to do it then do it as it can't hurt.

As long as you don't spend 25$ per shaft to get them spined, by all means do it. I'm planning on doing it in such a way I don't have to buy anything, just using a clamp.

It's not a big deal but it's one less thing to worry about and it's free to do like that.

The only reason not to do it is if you don't believe it makes a difference or if you want the shaft labels aligned in the same way.

As for ferrules, they're not that big of a deal. I think they make ferrules you can snap directly on the shaft without the head removed if you want the easiest job. I suggest if you're doing the job yourself that you use a different color. I'm building with white ferrules on my next set, and I've seen some pretty cool sets with green or blue, or a metallic silver. It will make your clubs look unique and especially if you like to match a colored grip.

In My Bag:

Adams Super LS 9.5˚ driver, Aldila Phenom NL 65TX
Adams Super LS 15˚ fairway, Kusala black 72x
Adams Super LS 18˚ fairway, Aldila Rip'd NV 75TX
Adams Idea pro VST hybrid, 21˚, RIP Alpha 105x
Adams DHY 24˚, RIP Alpha 89x
5-PW Maltby TE irons, KBS C taper X, soft stepped once 130g
Mizuno T4, 54.9 KBS Wedge X
Mizuno R12 60.5, black nickel, KBS Wedge X
Odyssey Metal X #1 putter 
Bridgestone E5, Adidas samba bag, True Linkswear Stealth
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Note: This thread is 4888 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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