HighSide

You could look here: http://www.swingsmart.com/ http://www.golfdigest.com/golf-equipment/blogs/newstuff/2012/09/-by-john-strege-the.html http://www.amazon.com/Golf-Sense-3D-Swing-Analyzer/dp/B00A7MLY2Y F&G;

Good info. As an aside, I believe Nicklaus' driver with steel shaft weighed 375 grams but swingweighted at C9. Let's say you try the Momentus X in a couple of clubs. Do you leave the widened hole in the grip you no longer have it in the club?

I'm not sure of their sourcing arrangement, but you can buy Slotline putter kits at diamondtourgolf.com. The prices are good.You can put it together or get a club builder to do so. " ; ^)

How about an eighty buck sleeper shaft from Golfworks (and maybe Golfsmith)? The Aerotech Claymore MX 60 shaft (not the long drive version) was used by Eric Jones in late October when he won the Remax Long Drive competition for 50-55 year old guys. His winning drive was 369 yards, and his longest of the competition was 388 yards. The F5 model is good for swing speeds from 100 to 115 mph.

For new clubs, you can look here: http://www.ralphmaltby.com/system/assets/433/2012_MPF_Additions.pdf For older clubs, you can look here: http://www.franklygolf.com/2009MPFRatingsChart.pdf F&G.;

You could find out if you can return them if you're not satisfied. If you can't try them out, the Machspeed would have the best resale value (even though they are 3 year old clubs).

Sorry about that. The bottom picture looks pretty close to the Yonex graphite fairway wood I have. I thought they were different clubs.

Dynacraft has been a long-standing component brand. It is now under the Hireko Golf umbrella. The other club looks to be a Yonex fairway wood. Most of the head is graphite, and there should be a metal faceplate attached to the bottom of it. F&G.;

You can do a search on Super Concord. They are copies of the original Tight Lies woods. You can buy them new, and they make 9 wood heads and completed clubs.

If you have the cyg hosel, the answer is yes. Just take the hosel and shaft to the club shop. They should be able to determine if they need to tip the shaft for you. They would install the shaft into the hosel and put a grip on. You should also have the Nickent wrench (should have come with the driver) to get the club head off of the current hosel. If you don't, I think a quarter inch allen wrench will work.

I believe you are missing something. One manufacturer's stiff or extra stiff may be another manufacturer's regular. The head is fairly light, about 190 grams. So, an extra stiff won't flex as much using that head. Rock Bottom has a disgusting habit of just installing an unfinished shaft into the Evolver head. By that, I mean when you order the Pershing stiff shaft with the Evolver, they just install it untipped, and it cpm's at about 232, about lady's flex. From what I have read, when you get a Pershing stiff, you need to tip it about an inch to get it to play to stiff flex. You may be able to take a new shaft to a club shop, and ask them to have it cpm to between 250-260 cpm's. Also, mention the 190 gram head weight, which they would take into consideration in arriving at a good cpm for you.

I had a Swing Speed Radar device a few years back. I believe my tested speed when I was 64 (3 years back) was between 80 and 87. I virtually gave up on hitting the 3 wood off the deck (even when I made good contact, the flight was like a line drive with little carry). I noticed that when I made good contact off the tee, the ball went about as far as my driver. So, when I had the opportunity to buy a new Bang-O-Matic 16 degree head for $30 (thanks Martin's) a couple of years ago, I went for it. In case you are not familiar with the Bang-O-Matic, it is a head intended for long drive types (Scott Smith hit one 535 yards with it), but it plays very well for any golfer. I find that my 16 degree goes at least as far as my other drivers (Launcher Comp, FT-3, HipTi 420). The ball really gets up in the air, great for downwind shots and at 44.5", easier to keep in play.

Well, I'm 5'3". Three woods are difficult for me to hit off the turf, not enough clubhead speed. So, I ditched the three wood, and I carry a couple of drivers. The one I always have in the bag is a 16 degree Bang Bang-O-Matic driver, just a big driver head with 16 degrees of loft. I then also carry a driver that is 9.5 to 12 degrees in loft; I usually pick the one I am hitting well at that juncture. The pioneers in high loft drivers are Bang and Adams. There hopefully are more by now. Another good Bang high degree driver to find used is the Mellow Yellow (good reviews).

Actually, I haven't been out much in the past year or so, but I liked the initial results. I was hitting the ball higher and about a club longer. They have always spun well. Of course, they are forged, so you usually get good feedback on your shot, where the miss (if any) was.

I bought some Comp EZ's new several years ago. A couple years ago, I was in the same boat. I wanted to change out the shafts. As their were only a few options on the tapered shafts, I chose to have the heads drilled out to accept a .370 shaft. I needed more height, so I had Release shafts installed. So, the heads can be drilled to accept a .370 shaft.

I bought mine near the end of June. What I bought was an Evolver with stiff Pershing shaft, with cyg hosel, and with the wrench. I just got the driver and shaft. I called them and got the wrench sent. When I took the head off the hosel was not the cyg one, just the standard non-adjustable. I have since bought a couple of the cyg hosels on Ebay.

Yeah, you would not find new major club lines there. If you are looking to try out different brands, the choices are Golf Galaxy, Edwin Watts, Golfsmith, etc.

There are all manner of good iron sets out there. The Eye2's have a good following. The one bad thing I heard about them (originally) is that the good golfer I played with said he didn't know how far he would hit them on any particular shot. But, they are cast, so they will last. As far as forged goes, the feeling is phenomenal. There are all sorts of Mizunos out there (I play CompEz's as one of my sets). Most of them are forged, so you have to get good pictures of the faces. Another option is the Tommy Armour Evo V-25 forged. There's a set on Ebay for $100 (the faces look pretty good). The V-25 is a classic design. These older sets have the older groove design, so they won't do for tournament play (except maybe for some local scrambles). F&G;, HighSide

It is on Dairy Ashford, south of I10. Mike has reshafted some irons for me, and also a couple of woods. He has done work for a senior tour player in the area. The last time I visited, I was happy with the driver he built for me, the cpm I requested and he delivered was perfect.

I have had good luck with Mike Nugent at Impact Golf. F&G; HighSide

CYG stands for "Change Your Game". The thread I referred has pictures of the cyg hosel and the different settings. When you unscrew the head, you can see whether you have neither of the adjustable hosels, the one where you can open or close the face angle, or the cyg one, which lets you make 26 adjustments. There are 3 possibilities. I think Rock Bottom kind of mis-advertised in claiming we would receive the cyg hosel. But, I should receive a couple of cyg hosels I bought on Ebay shortly (they were $15 each). So, as far as changing things now, options are buying a cyg hosel. Then you could use any driver shaft. You could get the Pershing tipped a half inch or an inch. Or, you could check Ebay every week or so, searching under clubmaking, shafts, and specifying cyg, to see what shafts are for sale which are already installed in a cyg adapter. You may be able to find an extra stiff shaft already installed in a cyg hosel. You would then be able to just use the wrench to install that shaft yourself. Regards, HighSide

I didn't answer all of your questions. You can use any driver shaft with the 4DX. If you happen to find a good shaft already attached to the Nickent hosel on Ebay (which happens occasionally), you just use the wrench to use the new shaft. I'm not certain regarding reshafting the 4DX with the original hosel. It may be made of plastic (the CYG hosel is supposed to be made of aluminum). The clubfitter would need to heat the hosel with a heat gun to remove the shaft. That may ruin the original hosel. This thread from WRX answers many questions: http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/281708-nickent-4dx-evolver-with-cyg-merged/

"If this is really basic, please forgive my ignorance - since these shafts are replaceable with the included tool, I assumed they were specific to the Nickent driver/technology - can *any* shaft be attached using the same method? I was looking specifically for the interchangeable shafts for the 4DX, is that wrong? Also, I've seen the term "tipped" before but I don't know what that means, could you explain it to me?" First, you need to use the wrench to unscrew the head from the club (no worries about getting it back okay as there are a couple of light colored dots you just line up then screw it back together). If indeed you received the cyg hosel (I didn't from Rock Bottom), you will see a few settings on the hosel. If you have that hosel, you can make 26 adjustments to enhance ball flight. In any event, you can have the shaft pulled by a clubfitter from either of the hosels (the cyg or original). Tipping means the clubfitter will shorten the shaft by cutting, and that will stiffen the shaft, which can cut down on slices and hooks. If the shaft is shortened a half inch or inch, when re-assembled, the club should still be playable at 44.5-45.5 inches in length. I imagine tipping and re-assembling the club would cost $15-30.

You might look on Ebay every so often, as some good shafts already installed in cyg hosels have been sold recently. I recently saw a UST V2 shaft in the cyg hosel go for about $36 plus shipping. Who knows, you might find a V2 XS or a Saga XS already in the hosel on Ebay.

There are a couple of cool sites to help fit golfers for shafts. They are shaftfit.com and ustmamiya.com. Using those, you would be able to figure out which Grafalloy or UST shafts might be best.