BirdieNumNums

It can be useful. I think practicing on a flat surface is the best especially in order to hone in a good stroke(if you don't have 1 already). I have one and I'm a single digit handicap. I use it at home since I have 2 kids as well. I also have a Callaway net in the garage. I don't use it a lot, but do use it when the wife is tired and I feel like getting some practice. I also take my oldest(2.5yr) with me to the course! Started at 1.5, you're not far off, but with twins you might be further away.

You gotta have fun otherwise going out to practice is going to just make you hate the game more. Unless you're making a living through golf then you might just have to grind it out. However, if you want the game to just click and come to you without practicing then you are probably in for a rude awakening. What I would suggest is playing some days with just friends for competition sakes and having side games within those games to make it more interesting even if you're not having a great scoring day. You can research this forum there was something posted not too long ago about games within the game of golf. Then for now maybe have your "practice" days consist of practicing on the course instead of on the range, where you're not keeping score and hitting 2 from each tee &/or fairway. Then when you've got your head right and your heart in it then take the practice to the range. The range can be fun if you make it competitive with yourself. I tend to ask a friend to come along every other time I go and try and play "HORSE" like in basketball, calling your shots or simply see who can get closer with wedge shots to targets. Putting and chipping contests. Bottom line, make it fun again then your head will follow your heart.

Play more!

I used to always go out an hour before my round. My typical 4some would always comment about it since they tend to show up right before the round. I'm very competitive so I always wanted to perform my best and felt I could only do that by getting loose and making sure I've got the kinks worked out. Then lately, I showed up to the course with a 3 hour deadline(pushed it to 3hr 15min) and played one of my better rounds without a swing, chip or putt to go off of. Back 9 was still a tad better than the front 9, but I feel that's more because of the fact the front 9 is much tougher than the back 9 at my typical course. Tried it out at another course without a range the next week and shot even par. I still like to go out and roll a few on the green and take a swing or 2 with the driver/PW/7iron. So I'm gonna continue this method for awhile and see how it works out for me. Just a few putts and a few swings, no more hour long warm-up!

Check out "the rule of 12". This is for about 5-7 feet off the green and in. I use this instead of just relying on my 56º. I get a lot of looks the first time I measure it out(I can estimate if in the mind for a "quicker round"(I'm by no means a slow player)), but once people see the result they either ask me how I do what I'm doing or will comment on my chipping, in a good way. The thing that intrigued me about this was the result if I caught it fat. With a SW if I hit it fat or decelerate the result was pathetic, but using rule of 12 the results weren't ever as bad as it would have been with a SW. After getting good at it(doesn't take long) I've knocked in more chips in on the course within 3 weeks than my previous 3 years. Here ya go, I did the leg work for ya! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTCpkYqF8Ig

When I started out I would top a few here and there. Generally it was because my height was shifting during the swing. Less moving parts = better swing!

Growing up playing baseball I was told by one of my coaches(don't remember if it was high school or not) that golf could mess up a baseball swing. I never touched a golf club growing up because of that. Then after college I picked up golf and felt that my baseball background actually helped me be a more athletic/knowledgeable golfer.

I'd say if your clubs are rinky dink, then I'd upgrade irons > driver. I would say if you're gonna get driver first save some money and get something from this year or last year. I feel the upgrades to drivers in the last 2 years are very noticeable.

Without seeing your swing it's difficult to tell. So, I would say if you're rather satisfied with your general swing try simply moving the ball toward your back foot a ball or 2.

I wasn't trying to be harsh, but rather blunt, I do apologize for the word "useless". There is one way to shank the ball and that's because the hosel hits meets the ball. But, the swing causing the hosel to get there first can be different. This is coming from someone who has battled the shanks for 2 years(6 months hard core). I tried that drill and it didn't help me while I had the shanks, sure it helped a couple times, but it didn't diagnose my swing flaw(s). You are best off getting professional help from a pro (glad to see you going that route) who can either eyeball your swing flaws or will video you and break it down(I suggest the second so you can see your swing being broken down.) But for us to truly give you sound advice apart from that post a video of your swing. I will tell you though, I had 2 pros help me and their suggestions were drills and such that led me through more frustrations. There was also the "mindset" hoopla they threw at me and that couldn't have been further from the truth. On the course, of course, it could slip in my mind, but when I was slamming hosel rockets on the range I wasn't worried about them and still was killing that hosel. It took me video taping myself and comparing it to professional swings to figure out what I was doing wrong to fix the shanks. I nearly sold my clubs a few times, but glad I stuck it out, because I'm playing the best golf of my life right now. Hope you do the same!

That video, in my opinion is pretty worthless, but so is the first post when it comes to giving you help. To get better help, post a video, if at all possible with a sporting type camera. If you have an out to in swing path, then I'd suggest on correcting that.

If your intention in a greenside bunker is to carry it further than 30' I'd say you're playing on some big greens. However, if this is what you're wanting to do then simply change to a lower lofted club like your 54º or even a PW. When you hit behind a ball in a bunker, doesn't matter if you swing 150% you're still only going to get so much carry. If you're not having problems getting the ball out and you're getting 30' of carry then you're doing things right. Don't swing harder, use a different club.

I'd say you're going to come up 50-50 here in regards to your question. I won't say either is correct, but, in the end, it will all come down to what you are comfortable with. Now, speaking from experience, I'll tell you attempt to fix it. I played a pull hook for the last 2-3 years, until recently. It was the best thing I did and really wasn't much of a change. Since "fixing" my pull hook I have put up my best 3 consecutive rounds ever. Before, like you, I would be able to put up a round where driving accuracy and GIR were on the relatively high side, but then a round or 2 later find myself wishing I had stayed home. Currently my miss is slightly right when due to me forgetting to close the clubface. I will say that I've yet to see a super dramatic change per 1 round, but rather finding it in the consistency over the course of time. Also, for me the big difference in my game is the putting, but the second best thing has been fixing my pull-hook. It has re-appeared about once a round, but I can live with that for now. Good luck in your endeavors, which ever path you take!

More like this: and less like this:

Something that helped me with the shanks was to look at some pictures of some pros of club placement at the top and where I am at the top. Generally when Im shanking, the club face is pointing past my midback, while I need it more towards my right shoulder(right-handed).

Pros do it do....and it's more costly. This was in 2009, glad to see him bounce back, seems like a good dude. ] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMQnhSbF6EI " Let's look at the cold hard cash. By 4-putting the 18th green, Snedeker cost himself approximately $100,000 from the $7.5 million BMW Championship purse, dropping from what would have been a tie for eighth to a tie for 10th. [+] Enlarge Scott Halleran/Getty Images Brandt Snedeker took full responsibility for thinking too far ahead while playing the 18th hole Sunday. "Shows you what I need to work on. It's 100 percent mental. It's nothing physical at all. We'll work on it and hopefully be stronger next year." Then there are the FedEx Cup points he missed out on, which dropped him from 28th in the standings to 33rd. That means he misses out on a spot in the Tour Championship, which takes only the top 30. So Snedeker also misses out on a minimum of $120,000 or so -- last-place money in Atlanta -- plus the bonus money that goes to those who compete for the FedEx Cup, which is an additional $175,000. And to add more pain, by qualifying for the Tour Championship, Snedeker would have been assured a spot in the Masters, U.S. Open and British Open next year."

I like this video, it's how I personally go about hitting either shot. http://www.pga.com/golf-instruction/instruction-feature/off-tee/how-draw-and-fade-video

[quote] On numerous occasions I have hit fades that have gone as far if not farther than my buddy's draws[/quote] I think it's better to know how you hit compared to yourself than someone else(when we're talking about fade vs. draw in this context.) You may be making the point fades can be just effective and as long as a draw and I don't think many will argue that, just look at Tiger. But, it doesn't seem that is what the OP is wondering. Anyway, both shots are great to have and you would need to be aware(especially as your game improves) what the distance is for a draw with your 7 iron as well as what's the distance for the fade with your 7 iron. Knowing both types of shots and their distances can and will result in you being on the green or off of it(or worse in the drink.) Being the amateurs that most of us are we have some inconsistencies in our swings and that also is true when comparing our draws to our fades. Most people, not all, probably hit their draws a little further due to the info stated above(delofted, less spin). If its frustrating you hit one further than the other, work on that swing that is going less until you can get them as equal as possible.

I believe that draws do produce more distance due to the spin, mainly coming from the roll-out/release after contact with turf.

When I was in your position I set a goal for myself before buying new sticks. I said at 85 I'd get a driver at 80 Id get a putter and then when consistently under 80 I went for new irons. You can adjust your goals in what you feel is realistic for yourself, but my idea was I needed to make sure to get a good swing before good clubs. The new clubs will help you get more distance and more forgiveness, but won't fix your game.

No arguments from me

To be honest it would depend on the results I was seeing. I definitely wouldn't if he was charging me for missed lessons! I have taken 3 lessons from an assistant pro who used to shoot mid 70's consistently then when he had 3 kids in the course of 5 years dropped to a mid 80's golfer. He knows what he's talking about, I enjoyed the lessons as well as he gave me good feedback and I saw results. However, I'd say it was earlier in my golfing experience and I've yet to take any lessons since. If I were to take lessons again I'd probably go with someone more prestigious and might be able to get more out of me. But, to answer your question, I personally wouldn't be looking to take lessons from someone who shoots higher than me, no....but there can be exceptions. Then again, I do live in an area that has a great deal of golf pros while other places might not be so privileged.

I think most people would agree that if you don't keep up with your game on the regular that your game won't be sharp and you can go from being someone who shoots around 75 on the regular to someone who shoots 85 once every month or 2. As a track athlete in high school and college I could run a mile in the low 4's. I couldnt sniff that right now, 10 years later. If I went back into training I couldnt probably get mid 4's. I could very well effectively and successfully coach people younger and near my age to run faster than me. Being a coach or instructor doesn't mean you're currently or were ever better than the average player. It is your understanding of the game and conveying the information needed to the athlete and being able to get the results out of them. Not, how good of a player you are, but how good of a teacher you are.

I know plenty of instructors who handicaps aren't exceptionally low. Reason being they don't play a lot due to the game being their job. They're more tied to instructing others with little time to their own game.

I had a similar problem which I've only recently fixed. Shank-free the past week! I was playing the best golf of my life, 3 consecutive rounds at par or under. (And, I had never went under par previously). I battled the last 6-8 months trying to figure it out. I'd make adjustments, thinking I've found the fix, for it only to come back the next day or 2. My problem is somewhat what forepoints was saying. I have a strong grip, but I didn't change that because I was still square at address. All I did was check the position of my backswing. I was crossing over too far. If at the top of the backswing the toe of your club is supposed to be pointing to your target, I was pointing it prolly 10-20 yards to the right of it (right-handed). I began taking practice swings from the top of the backswing, regrooving the swing from there making sure that the toe was pointing to my target or even left of it at the top. It started to sink in mid-round on Saturday without me having to consciously thinking about it. Shot my best round this golf season! More importantly no shanks, even with some shots on the toe(Which hasn't happened since the shanks appeared).