R11driver

Mint condition. Hit less than a dozen times. Stock Velox shaft in stiff flex. Includes head cover. Prefer local pick up in central Ma. but will ship. Price does not include shipping.

New never hit. KBS tour 90 shaft in regular flex.Prefer local pick up in central Ma. but will ship in TaylorMade shipping box if it is shipped. Price does not include shipping and insurance.

Sorry. Happy to list them separately. And why is asking $100 for a never hit iron that sells for $130 so outrageous?

New model Tour Preferred MC 5 iron. New never hit . KBS tour 90 shaft in regular flex. Stock grip. Looking for $100 plus shipping. Jetspeed #4 (22 degree) hybrid. Mint condition. Hit less than a dozen time. Velox T shaft in stiff flex. Stock grip. Includes head cover. Looking for $110 plus shipping. Prefer local pickup in central Mass. but will ship in genuine TM shipping box if needed. Estimate no more than $15 bucks for shipping.

Irons are sold. Thanks for all the views.

I've decided to move up to the 2014 MC TP irons so I'm putting my CB's up for sale. Same irons as in my avatar. These irons were only used 1.5 seasons and are easily an 8 out of 10 condition wise. In fact I use hybrids in place of the 3,4,and 5 irons so those are brand new and have never been hit. S300 shaft. They all have 1 season old Golf Pride New Decade white grips (6 thru PW). I'll deliver anywhere in Ma. or add $25 for shipping to anywhere within the US. Photo's on request.

I wonder if they have a cast body and forged face like my CB's. Unless it's a face thickness thing and they needed to be cast for strength. I'm reading they are really starting to work on COR values for irons now.

I wonder if $999 will be the real street price or if the price will drop when they are officially introduced. I say "officially introduced" because they don't appear on Taylor Made's web site yet. Plus Callaway's x forged irons (which are also very nice) are selling for $799. And they are ALL forged.

So playing in my company golf league this past season was a very unpleasant experience because of slow play. I'm talking 3 plus hours for 9 holes. Spring and fall rounds were literally finished in the dark. After numerous unanswered complaints to the league officials to do something about the 2 or 3 people responsible, I ended up taking the matter into my own hands and ended the season a pretty unpopular guy. Not that I cared that much because 3 hour rounds for 9 holes is nothing but absurd. I don't think I was mean but I made no bones about the fact that some people needed to speed up. Some did, some didn't. When I say 2 or 3 people, each is on a separate team which on league night means 2 or 3 foursomes end up being slow. That makes up at least half the league. I'm up in the air about joining this league again in the spring. My partner is talking about starting his own league. Maybe he will, maybe he won't. But it's clear the current league officials have no interest in addressing the problem. What have people here done to address slow play in their leagues or local courses.

I had a chance to test hit these today (the MC's) and they felt really good. I was a little leary about the KBB shaft but it didn't seem to bother me with these irons. They only had one set and they were stiff shafts so I'd wnat to try the regular's before making a decision. I'd also want to do a side by side test against my CB irons before making a decision. I also noticed that only the 8 through PW's are stamped forged. The 3 thru 7 irons don't say forged on them.. Does that mean the 3 thru 7 irons are not forged ? If not, what are they? Oh and the price was $999.99

Anyone know what selecting the different battery types actualy does ? What does the G5 do differently if you have alkaline versus recharable versus lithium battery selected. I would assume power consumption is different but my experience is that most of the hand held gps units perform best with fresh batteries or in other words, maximum power. So if choosing one battery type over the other somehow decreased power consumption, you are also decreasing accuracy to some degree. I would rather replace more batteries and maintain accuracy then conserve power at the expense of accuracy.

Got out for my first round of the season today. Just getting over the flu so only played 9 holes. Plus the course was mobbed. Had a couple of bad shots, a couple of really good shots and a bunch of ok shots. But I'll take the 39 and run.

In an effort to make a big turn, your left arm is breaking (bending) at the top of your swing. That arm bend is causing more wrist cock throwing the club way past level ala John Daly. Trying to get everything back in sync on the down swing can be costing you some speed. Just my 2 cents

Have you tried impact tape to see where you're actually impacting the ball on the club face. How do the shafts compare ? Not just flex, but weight. Do the 2.0's have a heavier shaft? Did you happen to get the uniflex shaft ? I tried a set of Clevelands with the uniflex shaft and they didn't work at all. Loss of distance was one of the issues..

Hitting into a net won't tell you much unless there's also a launch monitor. And then, only if you are also hitting your current driver for a direct comparison. No matter how inaccurate the monitor may be, it's inaccurate for both clubs so you can still see if one works better than the other. On the course would be best if you can find a course that will let you take one out and play with it. There are a couple of courses around me that will do that. I think TGW has a 30 day full refund no questions return policy on clubs.

I use the NDMC grips whenever I build a new club or it's time to regrip. For woods, I typically get something that matches the shaft or in some cases, the head. For irons, I'll either use white or again, something that matches the head. For example when I regriped my Cleveland TA7 tour irons with the red insert on the back of the head, I used red grips. If I regrip my TM CB irons, I'll probably use white.

I don't think there is a yes or no answer to your question. I'd like to think my game has evolved to the point where the smart shot is more important than the "glory shot". Which is not to say I wouldn't go for it if it was the smart thing to do.

Yea, I played it several times and always enjoyed it. It was nice living in the hotel across the street. Just a short walk to and from the course.

I paid about $110 to play Reston National in Reston Virginia.

the current "enter to win" link is for a Cobra AMP driver and fairway wood.

When do we find out who the lucky winner is ??????

If winter continues as it has been (pretty much non existent), I hope to be out in February. Mid March at the latest.

If you trust the people that did the fitting and trust the results, then don't get too hung up on shaft flex. If it was a good fitting, the S300 shaft is what's working best for you. Barring any future health issues, you shouldn't have much to worry about a declining swing speed. My swing speed has remained the same for quite a few years. If it ever does get to the point that a regular shaft would be better for you, you can just have them reshafted rather than buying new clubs.

The most asked for clubs for me to build for people this past season was the 3/4/5 hybrids. They are much more versatile clubs than the long irons and much easier to hit. As with any other club, try them out before you buy and see what works best for you.