marpr

E5 + = Spin Control Emphasis (Pro V1 like), great distance. e6 += Great Control, higher trajectory > amazing distance (Pro V1x like) hope this helps.

I would suggest the e5+! for the money, its the best performance ball!

I guess it again boils down to 'Personal Preference'. I personally swear by the Vokeys, as they work best for me and im very happy with the way they suit my game. as you can tell from this forum, many people swear by Clevelands and T'Mades!

although when i comes to drivers > i personally can't go past T'Made. i would suggest Nickent driver's too. best value on the market in terms of Bang for your Buck.

I would suggest just putting it in there. i do not see the point in spending more $$$ getting it tuned/pured. definately a shaft for keeping it low!! great choice!

I would suggest a square head. as its all about forgiveness and not workability. there are some great square heads out there now. depending on your price point. check out the new Nickent's.

the i5's are amazing irons, my friend has some. I think that the i5's have a thicker/wider sole than the i10's. The i10's are a tad smaller in size too.

The r7 (non TP) is a workable game improvement iron with a lot of offset from PW to 3. the i10's are more of a player's iron, ie. less forgiving than the r7, but a lot more workability. If your really playing off 10, i would suggest getting onto the i10's.

I dont think it will have too much affect on your clubs. but as another user said, it may overheat your rubber grips. i would suggest keeping them in your car if you absolutely need to. preferably not as a long term storage facility i would be more worried about people seeing your clubs a stealing them.

Royal Troon, European Summer 2006. in a word. AMAZING

To be really honest......... i would not bother watching all the free ones, by different coaches etc. I would suggest spending the money, and buying a couple of dvd's from a golf store (online is best) from the same golf coach (eg, Butch Harmon etc) and watch them instruct from the basics. I serious believe that watching too many various videos from various instructors will just confuse you, as they all have their own methods. And finally, you cannot beat a PGA approved golf instructor. it is WELL worth the money to have a few lessons, especially as your just starting out. The last thing that i would like to see if you throw away the sport after a short period because you didn't create a good enough basic golf foundation. just my thoughts.

Unlike your 695 MB the new ZB are a blended set (hence the Z'B'), they progress from a slight cavity back in the long irons > through to blade in the short irons. i believe that the offset-change is minimal throughout > the forgiveness in the long irons comes from the CB. hope this helps. i would keep the 695MBs

i personally haven't experience it. I would look at the strength your holding the grip too. if your too tight your fingers/hands/wrists/arms will tense up. try to lighten the grip. if it still persists, perhaps another (of many) grip?

good call. haha. when i bought my old Ping craz-e > its was huge. my mate brings out his new T'Made Spider on the weekend. wow. thats a huge b*tch haha. ps: they are a great club, very very sturdy on back swing.

a team of me, could beat a team of Tigers in the game of Cricket (US translation > kinda like baseball, with only 2 bases haha).

Yeah i have to agree. I think more and more pros and scratch markers are going towards forged CB's and cavitys because they are quickly becoming more and more playable while stil offering that,MUCH NEEDED, )BY EVEN PROS) forgiveness. I guess it is always that ebb and flow between tradition/blades and future/cb's. I personally think EGO/marketing has a lot to do with it too. I dont think i would ever use a true blade, i need that little bit of forgiveness. PS: i have sold my Clubs to a mate and im getting the new AP2's next weekend. yay

I totally agree. There is no better putter grip > just one that works best for you . Bigger/fatter grips are great for people who tend to collapse/break their wrists at some stage during the swing.

you've only played the game for 18months and your at THAT handicap? i think i'll be getting lessons from you soon. haha re-divot > automatically, i would look at your ball position at address. ideally, you want your swing to max out in the turf after hitting the ball. i have a friend who plays off 1 and he rarely takes a divot from anything long that an 7 iron.

Sorry to be a buzz kill guys, but there a quite a few threads about this comparison: in short Pro V1 > softer/higher spin rate in short irons Pro v1x > harder/distance/

Im actually putting my v-steel in-the0-bag tomorrow morning, as im playing a course with thick first-cut rough. in terms of turf travel > its the best

i would automatically suggest a stiff shaft but i would advise going to a fitter, or even to your local course pro. they will know in a few swings. cheers chris

What is hard to understand? If you let your putter hang from your fingers, like a "plum bob" your putter is now (by the law of physics) hanging precisely vertical/perpendicular to the "flat" ground. This classic method it used as a visual comparative point-of-reference. Basically some people find it easier to read degrees of left/right/left slope if they have this point of reference. I personally do not use it. But quite a lot of golfer’s do.

I agree with Shindig. Bridgestone balls. i have recently purchase 3 dozen of the B330-s and im waiting for my Srixons to stratch. i feel these will take-off even more in the next 6 months.

from my personal experience, and from what i have heard from fitters and pro's > The burner. hands down. i prefer mine though.

I have used quite a few > i have resorted back to my T'Made V-Steel on many occasions, but, as the crown on the v-steel is dented slightly, i more often than not keep my r7 15deg. definately the v-steel is a classic, much like the Ping g5.