Imperitor

You either need to contact mizuno directly or go back to where you bought it and see if they will replace it. How badly did you hit the ground? How long have you had it for?

I never really paid any attention to what ball I used until I found a ball in the bush that I really liked. It seemed to go straighter, longer, spin more, and just feel better to hit in general. After a few holes I looked the ball over to find out what it was. Of course it was a Pro V1. I ended up losing it in the water after playing 9 holes with it. That was about a week ago. Now I got a dozen used pro v1’s on there way to my house so I can play a few rounds with them and see it they really make a difference.

I own and use the 695 CB's and I love them. Everyone's saying that the new AP1 and AP2's are also great so you might want to try those.

You should be able to get the 5 wood a lot higher into the air, for better or worse. At least this is the case for me. I also find the 5 wood a lot more reliable then a 2 iron.

Does anyone use used/refurbished prov1's like these ? Are they just as good as new ones? My second question would be how do you refurbish a golf ball?

I have the titleist 695 cb's and I love them. I would suggest giving them a try. Otherwise go with the Taylor Made RAC MB TP becuase you liked them best.

I upgraded from my old clubs to titteist 695 CB's and I love them. They're not blades but they are pretty close and give me just as much feedback on my shots. I can ussually tell what went wrong in my swing instantly. Fixing that is anouther story... but I find they are really helping me. I say go for the MP-67's!

I shouldn't have any problem attempting this with my titleist 695 CB's. Now that I know what a knock down shot is I can say I've attempted it a few time to get under trees. I find the hardest part getting the ball on line. It seams to always come off the club going left or right. I suppose I need to practice this shot first.

Stupid question but what’s a knock down shot and how do you do it? Is it simply putting the ball back in your stance and creating a lower trajectory? Second question, why would ever want to play a knock down shot? When whould it help me?

Taylormade R7 Quad: $125 Taylormade R7 5 wood: $90 Titleist 695 CB 3-PW: $460 Titleist SM Vokey 54*: $90 Crappy Putter: $15 Total: $780 All brand new, most off Ebay so shipping was probably another $100 total. Not to bad if you ask me. I'm very happy with every club I've purchased, besides the putter.

I don't know a lot about rifle manufacturing so I assume you’re correct. My main point was that they’re for a completely different application, and should not be compared to a golf club.

I guess its because most people hit slices, so the draw clubs are a lot more popular.

My two cents, As an engineer I can say that the type of material used is just important then the method of production. I'm not up to date on golf club materials but there are hundreds of types of steels alone, each one having slightly different strength and fatigue characteristics. Having said that, different methods of production can change these properties even further. Cast vs Forged is only a small part of the big picture in my mind. There are so many other factors that can change the feel and durability of a club. As for comparing a golf club to a rifle, different materials, different use, different thicknesses. I could go on and on. I believe it's more cost effective to cast a gun then to forge it. Really the heat treatments, materials and quality of production are far more important. The moral of the story is casting and forging are capable of the same products when done correctly. I believe that since it is much easier to make a low quality casting then it is to make a low quality forging, people give it a bad name. Now go play some golf!

Would you guys buy the Nickent 4dx tour: http://cgi.ebay.ca/NEW-RH-NICKENT-4D...QQcmdZViewItem or the Taylormade R7: http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...m=220247970215 I've narrowed it down to those two.

Sounds good, it looks like a good price for a good driver. I tried a buddies r7, didn't fit right (he's short) but felt pretty pretty good.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...m=220247988760 Cheap but I'm don't want a fake rip off or somthing like that.

I was looking at drivers and I found some on ebay that say "This is an Asset Recovery driver and has both Serial number and No Warranty stamped on the hosel." Obviously this means theres not warranty but what does "Asset Recovery driver" mean?

I actually used to work a Rossmere. I worked in the maintenance department as a summer job when I was 15. Unfortunately I was not really into golf at the time so I only play it once or twice. I have never played the Meadows. I will definitely give it a try. As for the driver I think I got a list I can go look at and demo if possible. Thanks guys.

I live near the mint, but I work at the airport so GT is on my drive home. That R7 did catch my eye but I don't want a draw weighted club. I play at windsor park GC a lot for some cheap practice but last year I went to Teulon, Falcon lake, Quarry Oaks, Kildonan GC, Selkirk and a few others. My friend's brother got a job at Niakwa CC this year so he going to try to get me in for a few rounds. You know any good courses I should try?

Does the R7 come without the draw weight or is the R7 Draw the only one they sell?

I'm buying a new driver and I want to know what you guys think is the best driver I can get for the best price right now. I'm going to try them out once I get some suggestions. I can't spend more then $200. My old driver I could hit 260-270 max. It’s probably over 10 years old and it’s getting gouged and scraped to the point that it’s affecting my shots. The club face was about as high as the diameter of a ball. Very small compared to the clubs I see now but I liked it. I swing pretty fast, if that matters (I can just change the shaft). My higher handicap comes from 2-3 putting every hole (I hate putting). I can get a used titleist 905R, 9.5* for around $150 but I won’t have an opportunity to demo it. Anyone like/dislike this club? I think it’s a very good price after looking on ebay. Thanks for the help guys.

MP's are for low handicappers, the MX are for the higher handicapper. I agree with everyone above. I would give the edge to the Mizuno for looks, but you should try them out.

Ok, looks like I'm loking at the r7 without the draw weighting or the 695 cb's. I would rather fix a slice with my swing then with a club.

I didn't really know what the draw meant. Does it mean it will fix someones draw? or make it easier to draw the ball?

OK. I think I've narrowed it down to the taylor made R7 draw irons or the Titleist 695 CB irons. Anyone one have excperience/opinions on these sets?