bprater13

Read an article once awhile ago where Jack said if you are between clubs you should ALWAYS take the longer club and choke down a bit (the word always was in CAPS in the article and was the part that stuck with me). He said something about overswinging being a terrible idea. I usually choke about 1-2 inches down (looks like a normal Anthony Kim grip) and swing exactly normal, setting up after I choke down of course, and the ball usually goes about halfway between distances of clubs for me with about a 1 1/2 inch choke on middle irons.

First, sound does travel in 360 degrees, with no magic involved. If somebody honks a car horn and you are above, below, beside or any direction from the horn you will hear it. The ball does move away from you so the ball will block some sound and the sound waves are diminished for other physical reasons as well. Also, the amount of spin on the ball will affect the sound the ball makes. I hit a ball with a lot of RPM's of backspin off my driver, more than most people, and I have been told my ball makes a louder and more of a "ripping" sound when it flies past a person on multiple occasions, even when I am playing with somebody who hits it longer than me. Everything else Iacas said is 100% right, including the part where the strength of the sound waves is not as strong in all directions, which is due to the ball moving away from you and blocking some of the sound where most of the initial turbulence happens (in front of the ball).

The Ecco's I have are amazing. Had nike's, footjoys, adidas, puma.... Ecco's are the best by far. Never one single blister from them. Awesome!!

I have a problem with 460 drivers also. I consider the driver as one of my best clubs but can't come around on a 460 driver. I have an old TaylorMade r7 Quad from 2004 that is I believe 400cc and I hit it awesome, about a 5 yard draw pretty consistently, and I can do that with a couple of my friends older and smaller headed drivers. However if you put any 460cc driver in my hands I will not get around on it and it will cut about 40 yards. The only one I have ever gotten around a small percentage of the time is the callaway ft-i. I am really excited about the new 440cc Titleist. I wish it was a 420cc but beggars can't be choosers I guess. Hope I can hit that thing cause I will buy it in about 3.2 seconds if I can.

I understand what you are saying, I just think you are more likely to make a big mistake (especially if you are a higher handicap) by trying to manipulate your swing rather than adjusting your face angle and taking your normal swing. It seems more likely if you flatten out your swing or really try to swing over the top that you would be more likely to mishit the ball or top one 20 yards. And in most cases I would much rather overcook a draw by 15 feet than top it or hit a hosel rocket. Also, the more you practice it and get comfortable with it the more you know how much to adjust. I think changing your swing a little is the way to go in the long run perhaps, however for people who want to be able to do it to some degree quickly and until they figure out how to gauge the movement from manipulating their swing I think changing the face direction is the way to go, JMO.

I definitely play better with better players. I try not to do it but I always seem at least content if I have the lowest score in the group. So if I play with guys shooting 75 or 76 I will still try my hardest to be lower than them. However, when I play with my roomates or somebody who is shooting 93, 94, something like that, I unfortunately find myself content with shooting 82 or 83.

I have heard, and somebody please correct me if this is wrong, that you want to have the least flex you can hit straight. It was compared to me with pole-vaulting, where you want the heaviest pole you can still bend. I was told that if you swing 110mph but can hit a regular flex straight that you should get the regular flex instead of stiff or xstiff. However usually at those speeds the amount of torque on the club will make it near impossible to hit straight which is why 99% of people that swing that fast should have a stiff or xstiff shaft, and why that is recommended.

I don't see a problem with closing the face to hit a draw. I have been doing it for years with good results. I just set the face closed or open towards my final target BEFORE I set my hands, then ignore the clubface and take my normal grip. If I really need to hook one, like a nasty hook around a tree with a short club, I will close the clubface off and take a flatter swing. One where I almost feel like I am pull hooking a baseball out into left field. I swing more around my body and keep the club flat, almost below my shoulders at the top of my swing.

Yeah, asking what club somebody hit in any situation is illegal. It doesn't matter if your ball is 600 yards away. You are allowed to ask how far did you figure it to be, or how far to carry the bunker but not what club they hit, because this is considered to be attainable knowledge. They are allowed to tell you what club they hit but you are not allowed to ask. In college matches they tell you not to ask and if you get paired up with a real jerk and he decides to call you on it he can give you two strokes as soon as you ask, without an answer or anything.

For a draw and fade I read somewhere when I first started to take your normal swing but with two alignments. First you set up your normal stance with the line you want the ball to start on, next you open or close the clubface so that the club is pointing where you want the ball to end (ie. line up just left of a tree you are moving the ball around and have the clubface aimed at the hole). I have always found this to work really well for me and I would say I am good at working the ball, yet I have learned to adjust a little bit in that I have given myself a little extra room to clear objects because an open face seems to cause the ball to come out just a touch to the right of the line you are lined up on, and vice versa for the draw. Therefore instead of aiming a few feet off the side of the tree I may aim 10 or 12 feet off the side.

This sounds very much like me. I am the worst putter on my team by far and it has become a joke among everybody. Somebody will come in with 38 or 39 putts and they'll say that's a me number. In my last college match last year I shot a 80 the first day with 39 putts (13 GIR's) and an 83 the second day with 41 putts (12 GIR's). I also have a problem getting up and down if you did the math on either of these.

Also, their weighting is a touch different in some of the models. More heel and toe weighting in the black, less dispersed.

I doubt you would notice a difference. The black's are just supposed to have more of the look of the "tour" line. And the insert may be a TINY bit firmer. Like if you hit a 40 foot putt it rolls out 1 more inch.

Color scheme, and 100 bucks.

1)Ernie 2)Retief One of the South Africans will bring it home for sure. Both have been playing well, just haven't put everything together for 72 holes yet. One of them does this week.

keepmygolfscore.com is what I use. Free and pretty good to use.

I've heard before (and it may not be right, but seemed logical) that wedge flex is basically stiff flex designed for a shorter shaft, one that is already inches shorter than a regular iron shaft and isn't just cut down. Basically it took it that means the shaft is stiff but designed with a kickpoint and torque adjusted to the shorter shaft.

Do you know if the range balls are "limited flight balls"? I've been to ranges before where they don't have a lot of room, or are just too lazy to drive 300 yards out to pick up balls and they have limited flight balls. They really limit the flight as you get to longer clubs too, so this is a possibility. With normal balls I hit a PW about 145 and a 3-iron about 230, however with limited flight balls a PW goes about 100-110 and a nutted 3-iron maybe goes 150. Even drivers rarely go 200. Just a thought. Also, all the limited flight balls I've seen have been yellow, so I never trust yellow range balls.

When I was buying wedges last year the guy at Golf Galaxy told me this was going to be happening and told me to steer clear of things like "zip grooves" and stuff unless I wanted to buy new wedges in 2010, because he said they would be illegal in college golf (he didn't mention anything about grandfathering tho).

I have 4 sets of irons, 4 drivers, 3 putters, and 2 sets of wedges. The first set I bought all at once when I first started (around 12) and are some cheap wal-mart/sam's club set of irons and woods, the second set is when I started to get a little better (16ish) which are nike pro-combos I still play and ping driver and 3-wood. Then I have a set of Hogan blades I bought when I was going through my "I'm really good" phase a few years ago when I made my college team. Went back to the Nike's and am so glad I didn't get rid of them. I can probably get rid of the old Wal-mart set now, but will always keep at least 2 sets at all times, just in case I decide I don't like the set I am using. The first tee suggestion is a good one though if you do decide to let go of them. Just make sure you do want to get rid of them 100% before you do.

So I guess the consensus is that the MP-32's and MP-60's are both pretty hard to hit as they get into 3 and 4 irons. Do they all go similar distances too, or does the MP-57 usually go farther due to its design?

Hey guys, I just bought a set of Mizuno MP-32's off of a guy the other day for 125 bucks (impossible to pass up) and really like them. However he played a few hybrids so the set is only 5-PW. I want to pick up a 3 and a 4 iron because I prefer long irons to hybrids myself. I really liked the Mizuno's and for sure want the same for my irons, but didn't know which model to go with. I would get the 32's and have the complete set but heard they are really hard to hit at 3 and 4 iron length. I also looked at some MP-57's and MP-60's. For the past few years I have had Nike pro-combos so I am used to the different shapes of different length clubs and do rather well with that. Any suggestions/experiences/reviews would be greatly appreciated. Oh yeah, also they have rifle shafts and I would like to maintain rifle shafts in the 3 and 4.

What do you want me to hit? lol. Read the article. http://www.golfdigest.com/instructio...r/flick_gd0808

http://www.feelwedges.com/shop/The_7...966ac1d0d891b3 I also remember last year seeing late night infomercials for an 80* wedge they made. Don't know if they've discontinued that one or what but I didn't see it on the website, just that 73* now.

I'm a student in college where I play golf. I am a Physics major about to go to grad school for Medical Physics. I work at P&G; in the lab during the summer on nights so I have dead time usually every night that I browse the forums.