snowman0157

No. Most of us would probably be better off with a Chipper than a 60 degree.

80 on an EZ track….. anyone with a brain woulda shot 74 or 75 at worst.

Haven't tried TC shirt, but have used TC elbow braces… They are very light compression (as advertised), so if you are looking for something with more compression/support you should be careful when looking at their sizing chart (maybe order a size smaller?) or look at a different brand (perhaps UnderArmour) for more True Compression feel if that is what you are seeking (of course they would;t have the copper fibers). Good Luck

I've been working on my swing to try to eliminate/reduce my over the top move and be less steep into the ball... I think I'm making progress, but now I'm hittling lot's of Iron shots Fat. What would be likely cause / cure for this? I have a theory, but I'd like to hear from the SandTrap experts! Thanks in advance.

embarrassingly shorter than all other replies to this thread....

me like! however, I play mallet with slight bit of toe-hang.... wonder if they can incorporate this alignment 'technology' into that type of putter.....

Butt Ugly. I hate the graphics on the crown. Can't play well when about to vomit while addressing the ball... . Taylormade is ruining golf.

Iacas - Another great topic. I'm self taught (trial and error) and have never analyzed it in-depth as in this thread but I have had some good success with the swing thought/feel of "keeping the club face looking at the ball" during the initial takeaway. To me this feels a bit closed, because I'm sure I've been a wrist-roller most of my golfing life, but having just got up off the couch to get a club, I see at P2 with this approach, the toe of my club is more in the 'square to path' position as you describe, not "up". Thought I would share this as it may be a good thought/feel for others. Does anyone have any drills/or suggestions for maintaining the square position thru impact to horizontal on the follow-thru?... as it seems as if sometimes my reflex is to hold on or roll clockwise on the downswing because I feel "closed' when I am taking it back square to the plane. Hope that makes sense. I'm going to recommit to "square to path".

Thank you for the input Erik...Yes, the outside-in path is a big problem; definitely need to work that out. I always enjoy reading all your posts/articles, etc. and really respect the way you present your information and opinions - well thought out, and great explanations that the common player can understand.

Seeking opinions: To improve my Driving Distance, should I work on hitting Up&Out; on the Driver or work on developing a reliable Draw? I have been contemplating working on developing a reliable 10 yard draw as my stock tee shot. At this time I usually just play a straight ball and if it pulls( most common)/pushes/draws of fades, I'm usually still ok as I am a pretty straight hitter. Been doing some reading (e.g - Andrew Rice site "Getting the most out of your driver", etc) about benefits of hitting up & out (5 degrees up /5 degrees out is optimum)on the Driver and I also saw that iacas(Erik B.) has posted that he is now teaching students to hit up on their drivers (Fade shape) to help them improve their driving distance. Not sure why(scientifically speaking), but I'm certain a draw for me at this time goes farther the a fade. (I'm in TX so roll is a factor). FYI: Last time I was on a lunch monitor, by club head speed was ~95mph, BallSpeed 134, angle of attack -1.8. Launch 12.5, Spin 3447 club path: -5.5 (Outside in). Input would be appreciated.

73 - Drove it into fairway bunker on Par 5 #18; had to wedge out, and then holed a 3 wood for Eagle.

It's the elbows mainly ... Don't know for sure if it is the vibration or other stresses that cause the problem, but I have heard from others that Graphite shafts have helped, even when lightweight steel and vibration reducing inserts have failed; so I'm willing to give 'em a try.

I am going to graphite shafts in my irons due to joint problems, hoping this will help ease some of the discomfort. Planning to reshaft my current irons which have a 113 gram Nippon steel shaft - S Flex. Unless I discover some other choice that really jumps out at me, at this point I am planning to go with the Aerotech Steelfiber in a R flex (I've read these play stiff and I probably shouldn't have an S in the Nippons anyway; My 6 Iron swing speed is about 78-80 mph). Question is this: Anyone have experience knocking 28 grams off the weight of the shafts in their Irons? (that would be if I go with the 85 gram Steelfiber). Will that completely mess up my swing tempo? Would the 95 gram Steelfiber be a better choice, you think? I'd like to go as light as reasonable/possible as I'm thinking that might also help the sore joints. Any experiences/opinions that you can share will be appreciated.

Due to chronic Tennis / Golfers Elbow problems, I am planning to move to graphite/composite shafts in my irons..... 1) Does anyone have experience or information on the Stock Mizuno Exsar IS4 Shaft. Who is the OEM? what Shaft is it before they paint it with the Mizuno logo? Maltby Playbility factor? Is it a low flexpoint shaft? Does it play stiff or weak?, etc. I know they only have R flex for the JPX 800, which is likely the flex I be "fit" for... I have access to a good Mizuno certified fitter. 2) Re: the Aerotech Steelfiber shafts.. I've read great things on forums.. Does anyone know if Kucher / Snedecker play the "PlayersSpec" shafts in their irons? (shafts get heavier as they get shorter) or the other steelfiber constant weight shafts? 3) Any other graphite shaft for irons recommendations, references would also be appreciated. Thanks in Advance.

I have not hit them, but I think they would look 'normal' at adress as they say on the commercial..... Seems like a very sound design to me.... I would like to try them.