snowman0157

No. Most of us would probably be better off with a Chipper than a 60 degree.

80 on an EZ track….. anyone with a brain woulda shot 74 or 75 at worst.

Haven't tried TC shirt, but have used TC elbow braces… They are very light compression (as advertised), so if you are looking for something with more compression/support you should be careful when looking at their sizing chart (maybe order a size smaller?) or look at a different brand (perhaps UnderArmour) for more True Compression feel if that is what you are seeking (of course they would;t have the copper fibers). Good Luck

I've been working on my swing to try to eliminate/reduce my over the top move and be less steep into the ball... I think I'm making progress, but now I'm hittling lot's of Iron shots Fat. What would be likely cause / cure for this? I have a theory, but I'd like to hear from the SandTrap experts! Thanks in advance.

embarrassingly shorter than all other replies to this thread....

me like! however, I play mallet with slight bit of toe-hang.... wonder if they can incorporate this alignment 'technology' into that type of putter.....

Butt Ugly. I hate the graphics on the crown. Can't play well when about to vomit while addressing the ball... . Taylormade is ruining golf.

Iacas - Another great topic. I'm self taught (trial and error) and have never analyzed it in-depth as in this thread but I have had some good success with the swing thought/feel of "keeping the club face looking at the ball" during the initial takeaway. To me this feels a bit closed, because I'm sure I've been a wrist-roller most of my golfing life, but having just got up off the couch to get a club, I see at P2 with this approach, the toe of my club is more in the 'square to path' position as you describe, not "up". Thought I would share this as it may be a good thought/feel for others. Does anyone have any drills/or suggestions for maintaining the square position thru impact to horizontal on the follow-thru?... as it seems as if sometimes my reflex is to hold on or roll clockwise on the downswing because I feel "closed' when I am taking it back square to the plane. Hope that makes sense. I'm going to recommit to "square to path".

Thank you for the input Erik...Yes, the outside-in path is a big problem; definitely need to work that out. I always enjoy reading all your posts/articles, etc. and really respect the way you present your information and opinions - well thought out, and great explanations that the common player can understand.

Seeking opinions: To improve my Driving Distance, should I work on hitting Up&Out; on the Driver or work on developing a reliable Draw? I have been contemplating working on developing a reliable 10 yard draw as my stock tee shot. At this time I usually just play a straight ball and if it pulls( most common)/pushes/draws of fades, I'm usually still ok as I am a pretty straight hitter. Been doing some reading (e.g - Andrew Rice site "Getting the most out of your driver", etc) about benefits of hitting up & out (5 degrees up /5 degrees out is optimum)on the Driver and I also saw that iacas(Erik B.) has posted that he is now teaching students to hit up on their drivers (Fade shape) to help them improve their driving distance. Not sure why(scientifically speaking), but I'm certain a draw for me at this time goes farther the a fade. (I'm in TX so roll is a factor). FYI: Last time I was on a lunch monitor, by club head speed was ~95mph, BallSpeed 134, angle of attack -1.8. Launch 12.5, Spin 3447 club path: -5.5 (Outside in). Input would be appreciated.

73 - Drove it into fairway bunker on Par 5 #18; had to wedge out, and then holed a 3 wood for Eagle.

It's the elbows mainly ... Don't know for sure if it is the vibration or other stresses that cause the problem, but I have heard from others that Graphite shafts have helped, even when lightweight steel and vibration reducing inserts have failed; so I'm willing to give 'em a try.

I am going to graphite shafts in my irons due to joint problems, hoping this will help ease some of the discomfort. Planning to reshaft my current irons which have a 113 gram Nippon steel shaft - S Flex. Unless I discover some other choice that really jumps out at me, at this point I am planning to go with the Aerotech Steelfiber in a R flex (I've read these play stiff and I probably shouldn't have an S in the Nippons anyway; My 6 Iron swing speed is about 78-80 mph). Question is this: Anyone have experience knocking 28 grams off the weight of the shafts in their Irons? (that would be if I go with the 85 gram Steelfiber). Will that completely mess up my swing tempo? Would the 95 gram Steelfiber be a better choice, you think? I'd like to go as light as reasonable/possible as I'm thinking that might also help the sore joints. Any experiences/opinions that you can share will be appreciated.

Due to chronic Tennis / Golfers Elbow problems, I am planning to move to graphite/composite shafts in my irons..... 1) Does anyone have experience or information on the Stock Mizuno Exsar IS4 Shaft. Who is the OEM? what Shaft is it before they paint it with the Mizuno logo? Maltby Playbility factor? Is it a low flexpoint shaft? Does it play stiff or weak?, etc. I know they only have R flex for the JPX 800, which is likely the flex I be "fit" for... I have access to a good Mizuno certified fitter. 2) Re: the Aerotech Steelfiber shafts.. I've read great things on forums.. Does anyone know if Kucher / Snedecker play the "PlayersSpec" shafts in their irons? (shafts get heavier as they get shorter) or the other steelfiber constant weight shafts? 3) Any other graphite shaft for irons recommendations, references would also be appreciated. Thanks in Advance.

I have not hit them, but I think they would look 'normal' at adress as they say on the commercial..... Seems like a very sound design to me.... I would like to try them.

I found that TM Japan now offers ItsyBitsy Spider Ghost model. Anyone know if/when TM might sell these in the U.S.?

Wilson Staff was probably the top brand in golf and on the PGA tour into the early 1990's as I recall........ Not sure what happened to them exactly.... I like the look of some of their current irons, I havent heard any poor quality reports about their current models, but there are so few players using them, I probably don't know anyone that owns the brand... Spalding was also a good golf brand at one time...There was golf before Taylor Made and Callaway.

Take a look at the I15 from Ping.... Head is sorta like a small Fairway wood, which I prefer for a Hybrid. On sale now also.

How many strokes could good ball striker, below average putter save with properly fitted Edel flat-stick, you think? Do they have a good size Mallet model? I am intrigued by this Edel "thing"..... I Know it has a lot of merit. How do I know? Because I am certain that I (and everyone I play with regularly doesn't aim properly about 98% of the time (with Putter and Full Swing!) Why am I certain? Because I have observed and it doesn't take a very keen eye to see that folks are making significant compensations in their strokes and swings trying to get the ball to go at the selected target vs. where their eyes told them align.... (something like, the brain takes over in mid swing/stroke to correct the misinformation the eyes fed to the body at address). This all has something to do with eye dominance and the fact that golf is a "side on" sport which causes visual distortions when trying to aim/align. There have been some scientific studies done on this. I have another theory as well from my experience.... You know those shots where you just "know' you are going to hit a good one before you swing or the putt you 'know' you are going to make???? Well, I believe that has a lot to do with your eyes and brain being in sync.(by accident in many cases) and getting you aimed and aligned properly..... your subconcious mind senses that you are in.sync, it takes a lot of the compensations out of your swing, and frees you up to hit a good shot down your target line. If I could start all over again as a beginner, I would emphasize aiming and alignment (full swing and putter) over every other fundamental. I work on it now, but I have a lot of years of bad habits and compensations that are hard to over come. We need an Edel process for full swing, not sure how that would work..... Alignment lines on Drivers, FW woods, Hybrids, Irons?

Been playing a long time and never was attracted to Cord...just a feel thing for me; and Cord doesn't really meet the deep tread criteria. Neither do the tour wrap style that dhanson mentioned IMO. I agree Lamkin Crossline are a bit Coarser than others, so I may just 'give up' and try those.... I'm playing the Avon Chamois now, but I really prefer a round grip as it feels more natural when you want to open/close the face a bit at address. Golf pride patriot - yes I've seen those, maybe worth a look even though red/white/blue isn't my preferred colors for golf grip (don't take that the wrong way). Thanks to all.

I like 'round','rubber', non-cord grips with deep 'tread' (if you know what I mean),. Once upon a time I had some Avon X-air grips that were nice and met this criteria. Now, the only grip I can seem to find that is like this is the Avon Chamois, which has everything I am looking for but unfortunately it has the reminder rib so it is not 'round'. (if you keep these deep-tread design grips clean, you do NOT need to regrip very often, even if you play and practice a lot as I do). Most of the non-cord Golf Pride grips essentially smooth with small perforations to give them some texture (shallow "tread" design), Lampkin are similar and I am not a fan of any of the Winn Grips(to me they are hard and slick, even the "Soft" versions) I tried in the stores. I'm thinking this 'smooth' design style is to encourage the grips to wear more quickly to reinforce marketing mantra that you need to "re-grip" often, so they sell more grips! Any thoughts on this from the ST community and suggestions on "Round", Non-Cord Grips with Deep "Tread".

Check out this Listing on EBAY....http://cgi.ebay.com/PING-RESTORE-REFINISH-YOUR-IRONS-ONLY-12-/270552165434?_trksid=p3286.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D540510666575555614#ht_3258wt_1136 Clubmaker that only restores PING Equipment......Looks pretty Snazzy. Crazy coincidence I ran across this earlier tonight prior to logging on to Sandtrap.....I'm not a currently a Ping man, although I did own a set of copper Eye-2's in the late 80's. Shoulda kept them. Good luck with your project.

Can anyone compare these 2 shafts. Opinions on Which one plays stiffer? Trajectory differences, etc... Thanks in advance.

I Play Tour Edge Exotics CB2 3 wood... It is hot. I think you will enjoy TE equipment.

Looking for help with my big swing bugaboo(drills, feels, swing thoughts, etc)...Here is the Story: I a have a problem with my alignment where I consistently set-up with my footline / shoulder line aligned at or to the right of my target, rather than "parallel left" as is considered proper. From this position, over the years I have developed a swing (over the top move, I think) where I hit a little straight pull or pull/slice that often lands in the vicinity of my target. My Misses tend to be shots that I 'over pull', so they end up left of my target. (In general, my best shots fly very straight, not much curvature). I have been working hard on my alignment, using the alignment sticks, spot aiming, etc.... but am very frustrated that when I am aligned properly ("parallel left"), I create one of three shots.. none of which are acceptable results.... 1. Ball Starts Waaayy Left and flys relatively straight (I think over the top swing with good release) 2. Ball Starts left then a big cut/slice sometimes lands near target line / sometimes right (I think, over the top with release held off) 3. Occassionally Ball Starts on line and fades/slices, lands right of target (I think more 'on plane' swing path, but improper release) Based on this I am thinking I need a good fix for my over the top swing path so I can align properly, release the club and have the ball start and stay on target line. Again, I'd appreciate any Ideas from the experts on the forum would. btw... If I can fix this problem, I can help everyone in my regular group,,,, From my observation, we all aim to the right and make different compensations....I think Martin Hall said it has something to do with Right Eye Dominance......