Mr3Putt

The very first thing that came to my mind when reading this was "How slow does this guy play". I mean, c'mon, if you're getting hit into " Almost every time we're out " there must be some reason.. I don't think I've been intentionally hit into in many years, and I play many, many rounds. There must be a reason there's a target on you.* Answer honestly now... Does this happen mostly on the later holes in the round? How many practice swings are you/your partners taking? Ready golf? Are you keeping up with the group in front of you? Do you let faster groups through? * I'm not saying anyone ever deserves to get hit into. EVER. I'm just trying to figure out why it's happening to the OP on such an amazingly consistent basis. Think about it, when was the last time someone intentionally hit into you? What was the reason you felt like hitting into someone?

Welcome fellow burghers! I've played Oakmont. FWIW It IS all it's cracked up to be.

It used to be easy to cross the border, now it's a PITA I played a nice track on the Canadian side a few years back. I can't remember the name, it was just a few miles from the hotel. Here's a listing of some courses on the American side. http://www.golflink.com/golf-courses...agara+Falls+ny Enjoy your trip.

KEY POINT: The accuracy of a civilian GPS device is not controlled by the quality/price/design or anything else to do with that receiver. The accuracy of a civilian based GPS device is controlled by the government. Bottom line: A civilian based GPS is not as accurate as a laser. Never has been and probably never will be..... Accuracy of GPS GPS was conceived in the 1970s, and is controlled by the United States Department of Defense. Although GPS was initially envisioned for military use, the Government realized early on that there would be numerous civilian applications as well. Subsequently, the Department of Defense (DOD) created two transmission codes; the P code (Precision code) for military use, and the C/A code (Civilian Access code) for civilian use. The highest accuracy levels were to be reserved for the military so as to prevent hostile enemy attacks against the U.S. using our own navigational system. However, once in operation, the civilian GPS receivers using the C/A code proved to be more accurate than the DOD had intended. Consequently, the military developed a system for randomly degrading the accuracy of the signals being transmitted to civilian GPS receivers. This intentional degradation in accuracy is called Selective Availability or S/A. This reduced the civilian GPS accuracy levels to being within 100 meters or less, 95% of the time. However, typical accuracy for most users averaged between 20 and 50 meters the majority of the time. You could easily see the effects of S/A on a GPS receiver when you were not moving. Typically, there would be random movements in speed, altitude and position readings, along with slow position "wandering" on the plotter trail. This was easily seen when you were on a .1 or .2 mile zoom range and not moving. For example, while parked at the dock in your boat, you would see unexplainable changes in your digital speed readings up to a few miles per hour, even though you were not moving. SOURCE Now that doesn't mean your GPS system is useless, just don't assume 100 is really 100 yards. For many people that's close enough. If you look carefully at those mirrors, they are probably labeled Laserlink. On the few courses around here that have them, flags can be measured instantly with any laser. I wish they were standard issue at all golf courses.

I have a Bushnell Medalist. I have none of the issues you mention. If it takes more than 2 seconds to get the right number either your unit is defective or your technique is way off. Bushnell has redesigned the battery door for this model. If you have an older one and the door pops off, they will send you the redesigned battery door. Maybe the higher magnification of your unit is exaggerating the instability? I find the magnification level (4X I believe) of my Medalist to be more than enough to spot any golf course target. If you can, try another unit like yours to see if it's operator error or equipment malfunction.

Dude , Did you not PM me seeking out my thoughts on the Putting Tool? I answered your questions based on personal experience. Is that not what you were looking for? I compared the devices side by side, and gave an honest review. Apparently, you didn't like what I had to say. You think my opinion "bashes" the Cameron device? Do you think that something simple can't be improved upon? Why are you so interested in the Putting Tool if you have no intention of buying one (based on the "godawful color scheme" that you've never seen personally?) By the way, those bright colors make it so much easier to line up from a distance behind the marker than muted lines.

Hi Butch, Thanks for the PM, or I would never have seen this posting. In answer to your questions, I have bought a few of these, I just ordered some more for gifts. IMO, not only are they "as great" as the Cameron tool, they are superior in every way. I was just golfing in Vegas and my friend had his Cameron tool and we did a side by side comparison. The Cameron tool has nothing on the Putting tool. Nothing. (OK, it does come with a Grampa-had-one change holder case) The colors and design of this tool make it easier to "read", it's also a tad heavier than the Cameron thing. I clip mine to the back of my divot/ballmarker tool that I normally use, the raised lines on this device protect the paint. I can pull the entire ensemble out of my pocket as it becomes one unit. If I need the assistance with the putt, I use the Putting tool, otherwise I use my old magnetic ballmark. The Putting tool workmanship is real quality. I was never an aiming line putter guy until I bought this thing. It works great. The longer putts may still not go in, but at least I'm more confident in my setup. If you're buying more than one, Email the seller Jeff Williams at: golfbycolors@yahoo.com He'll be glad to cut you a multiple purchase discount. He ships fast and is very pleasant to deal with. Oh yeah, if you simply must have the Grampa's change holder case that comes with the Cameron tool, I just saw them in a four pack at the 99 cent store. For those inquiring minds, this Golf By Colors Putting Tool device was approved by the USGA a year before Scotty "invented" his.

Which TPC course? There is TPC Summerlin, and TPC Canyons, I've played them both. As a matter of fact I just got back from Las Vegas last night. Came home with $12 and a hangover. Played the Legacy, both Angel Parks, and Aliante. (All OB sports owned tracks) Real hot. The first time I played TPC Summerlin, I wrote an Epinions review, Here it is: TPC Summerlin Review If you have any specific questions, PM me with your Email and we can discuss either track. Good luck in your tournement.

I think the lesson that took me the longest to learn was do not compound the problem. That simply means, if you get into trouble, trees or otherwise, just take your lumps. Punch the ball back into play, add your stroke and move on. Heroics will kill a scorecard. Trying to advance the ball as far as you can with a modified 2 iron is asking for trouble. Use your 4 iron, putter, driver, hood a 6 iron, whatever.... and get the ball back to the fairway SAFELY. There is no need to have one club for a shot you hopefully will not have.

So you cut a piece off to reduce the weight and that modification will allow you to glue some weight back on? How did you determine that sawing it in half would make it perform better? I hope it works well for you.

Sounds like you have some pretty old tape there... Go under your kitchen sink and get one of those sponges that has the green "scrubby" side. Spray the old tape with solvent, let it soak in a few minutes. You should be able to rub the old tape off as if you were erasing it. Another method is to use a razor blade and carefully whittle the tape off. It should come off like a carrot peel. If it's really bad, you can combine both methods, peeling first, then erasing. Don't let the new tape get that old.... Good luck.

There's no option to "can" use a tube. Please, you MUST use a tube. The first few times I attempted this method, I've foolishly tried removing a grip or two without the tube. If/when that puppy pops you can really put an eye out. Really. An eye. Out. Safety first is paramount. You're not dealing with TNT here, but there's no need to risk anything. Look around, you probably have something floating around in your garage that can be used. I mentioned the pool hose and bag divider tubes, but you can use anything that's just slightly larger than the fattest butt end part of the grip. As far as the comparison to the "old" solvent method. There is none. It's like comparing a horse and buggy to a car. Wanna race? I still keep the solvent and hook knife around for old times sake, but I can't see using it again anytime soon.

I've had a few. No aces though.... The closest I came to an ace was at an event where I could have won a car. The ball never left the pin, the spotter stood up as the ball rolled towards and then stopped 3 inches from the hole. This was the only par 3 on the course where there was no closest to the pin prize, just a car for an ace. Three of my eagles were on par 4's where (2) I drove the green with some freaky long drives. One of those was a 9 iron dunked from about 130. I've had a bunch on par 5's, at least 4 of those were chip/pitch ins, the rest (10 maybe) were putts. I haven't had one in a while though, I'm thinking tomorrows my day.

No matter how they label the "Pinseeker" feature, they all work the same. My buddy has a Nikon, another fellow has a Callaway, I have a Bushnell, we can all get the same number in the same amount of time. The differences in the top brand/model lasers are purely cosmetic. Anyone that says one brand is better/faster/more accurate than another is biased without cause. PS. I'm a Bushnell guy because dammit, they're the best.

Don't waste your money on one of those mono scope devices.