Crey23

I think is this thread had happened in person, beer would have been splashed!!! Folks chill out....read an opinion digest it, then reply! Way too hot " handed" to answer. Sheeesh!!!! Back to the OP....the basic level of understanding is the following: Lower loft will generate more side spin. This is great for Tour and experienced players bcs it allows "playability" Vs. forgiveness. The higher the loft, the less amount of side spin, thus more forgiving miss-hits Shafts plays a bigger role in launch angles than loft. You can basically keep your 11.5* loft and go with a high kick-point an get more launch than a low kick-point. Ball used...the ball may you are using may have a tendency to fly high, try some of the low boring flight type balls Finally...Ball position and tee height affect the launch angle and distance tremendously. There is far too many possible combination of factors that affect launch angle not just loft. Go out and try a few different combinations, and you will find what suits your best!

Here you go again with 45*...jajajajaj Actually Cody is wright on the shaft selection. Believe it or not your shaft has more to do with launch angle than loft. Thisngs to consider when going to lower lofts is that the lower the loft the more side spin you tend to get from the driver. I went form 10.5* to 9.5*, and didn't really feel much change, but going from 11.5* to 8.5* you may. Also consider that at 8.5* you may loose considerable distance if the shaft is low trajectory. I'd say look more into shaft effects, where the kick point is (low - mid - high), whether you have your shaft tipped or not...and then reconsider loft. You may also look for a ball that helps you reduce launch angles. If' I am not mistaken the Bridgestone e5 a designed to lower the trajectory of the ball...it's a cheaper option to try.

I just got some for my birthday...I have not played them yet, but I trew them in tall grass at dusk, and I could see them much more than regular ones..... I'm really looking forward to playing these this weekend!

+1 on this one....I have had great success with these balls....I am playing gamers right now as they seem to check even more!

What to look for varies from player to player in terms of feel, weight, looks, and sound, which is what golf digest rates on their putters hot list. What I looked for when I was looking for putters was consistency and repeatability. If you focus on those two factors, you will find that you identify the weight ideal for you, and the correct feel and feedback. Looks and sound, well these are entirely personal, and nothing to do with performance. What I did is I went to my local GG, spent about 1 hour or 2 (maybe 3 )and hit several putters in the same situation...each with at least 5 balls at the time. I use my right foot to draw an imaginary line which defines the depth of my back swing ...trying to get the swing as repeatable as possible. I find that heavy mallets, particularly those with weights on the edges, help me minimize or eliminate face wobble (opening or closing face of putter on back swing). This is pretty typical of perimeter weighed putters such as the Itsy Bitsy spider and many others. I have a almost straight back back swing (ass opposed to an arc), yet I still use heel shafted putter as opposed to center (again a personal thing..I don't like it at address) and get very good results. I first putter was a 36" TM Daytona cbg 355g blade, and while i liked the roll, consistency and repeatability were not there. I had a 2.44 putting average with it. I then got a 34" Rife Mr. Beasley 355g mallet, and felt that suited me to a tee. I gave me consistency and repeatability that I was looking for, plus I love the looks and sound. I have dropped my putting average down to 2.21, and have gone as low 1.89 with it.....really a great tool!!! I also have an Odyssey Teron, which is highly consistent and the alignment lines on it are great, but the distance was not there for me. I felt I had to kill the ball with any putt outside 10ft. Currently the only putter (that I have tried) that would get to put my Mr. Beasley down is the Rife Hybrid Tour Model, but at $200, it's not likely to happen soon. As for the hosel..it has two components....looks and performance. The looks part...self explanatory....the performance part has to do with shaft lean. As you may know that in order to get proper roll, you should lean the shaft forward a few degrees...well here is where the hosel offset comes into play. You from 0 to 1, with one being shaft thickness worth of offset. a one would be a plumbers neck or #1 where you have a full shaft offset. Sometimes you can get the same effect with double bend hosels, but typically those are limited to 0.5 to 0.75 range. I prefer a full hosel bcs I FEEL I don't have to worry about the angle of forward lean as much, but that's just me. I hope some of this helps. Cheers

What's you budget?? I am am a huge fan of Rife putters. They are making soime of the old style abacus type putters. I also like the the TM Itsy bitsy spyder....I used to be a huge fan of odyssey putters, but I have found more consisitnecy and confidence out of rife. Good luck

Really???? With the Driver that does not make sense ... I thought the ideal launch angle with your driver was around 10* - 14*?

dude your avatar is just wrong!!!! ROFLMAO

+1 .... I would not leave my 100 yard shot to a crapy stick!!!! I would go for a 48*...you can always open up the face of the 56* to get lob shot

When I asked this question, may raved about the Mizuno F-60, but it's hard to find used. I never got to try it, but always heard how easy it is to hit of the deck and tee. I went for the 906F4 on my sig. I found it to be the easiest to hit off the deck of all the ones I tried. It has very similar stats as the new 909F2...It's really a great 3w!!!! My only issue is that is not very forgiving on the rough (thick stuff) die to the shallow face. I also limit the use primarily to short distances off the tee (230-240) when hazards are present, which I cannot clear with the driver, other than thatI use my 3h alot!!!!

So if you have a hand me down with square or open face, with a stiff shaft and low torque, you can just start calling yourself Mr. Banana Slices Seriously, there is much more to a driver than loft and shaft "stiffness". The shaft is an integral part of this machine. In essence, the stiffer you go, the more tendency to slice that you will have. As Cody West stated, Pro's tend to hook, the stiffer shafts aid in correcting this.

Well there is something else that was not mentioned....some drivers are open faced, netural, or closed faced. Usually in the + or - 2* range...and this can make a huge difference. Maybe you should look at some drivers that are 1* closed, but not in " draw" mode. I got my r7 Limited, and it fit perfectly. In my opinion the best driver for me !!!!! As for the metrics, if you are on a good launch monitor and the guy reading it is compentent, you can see metrics on your swing that indicate your sideways spin rate. I read a book that I cannot stop recommending to everyone....it's called " Finally: The Golf Swing Simple Secrete" I read it, and without practicing the drills, took it to the course, and had my best outing ever. All the subsequent outing I've had much more success that ever before. Here is the link to Amazon . I was driving an average of 240's, now I am in the averaging 257, with my longest drive a 283!!!, iron play have improved on average 2 club lengths...my 6i used to be a solid 160/165, I am now a solid 178!!! Repetable and measured with GPS (so give +/- 3 yards, but were measured with the same device). my 9i used to be 130 max, now it's closer to 140, and my short game has improved tremendously too, now I feel comfortable insdie 100, when before i just wanted to kill the ball as close to the green as possible with my driver and 3h to avoid using iron...My 3h, is off the hook!!!! before I was 180 off the deck and 205 max off the tees....now I am a solid 200/205 off the deck(and shaping shots), and 215/220 off the tees....really a very good read. I bought that book and Hank Haney's, and I have not touched Haney's book cuz I don't want to mess with what I've got going!!! Enough of my rant, but look at several drivers with different shaft configurations.....I found that the shaft is just as important as the head...depending on what you want to do, shaft may be more relevant if you want to control launch angle vs loft. Your slicing could be a fucntion of a low torque shaft, look for that on your next purchase. I hope all this ranting has helped....good luck!!!!

Uncle pete....I recommend looking at RBG They have wedge sets are very reasonable prices. Not long ago they had an Tom Watson black set (52 - 56 - 60) I think...for about $80 USD, Shipping is reasonable. but I'm not sure for Canada..... Also check out eBay.

Listen get more than one opinion.... West is right....a launch monitor is a good idea...what I have done is gone to GG and every shot I make I look at the launch monitor, and I ask the gur there to show me the numbers and explain, then I go to golf smith, and do the same....if the stories match the numbers then fine, if I get two different stories I hit this board for advice. Consider that at some of the biug chain stores, sales fols ae not necesarily pro's, so sometimes thier advice is not always fit for you, but more of their own approach to the game or basicaly a stock answer they give all shoppers. I tend to sit back and watch people on the bays, see their stats and listen to the advice to get a feel for what the sales person is saying. Now based on your numbers a few factors are at play: 1. How young are you? if you are aging, and you are at the cusp of stiff....stay with a reg flex, you will get more mileage out of your driver that way. 2. how consistent were you hitting 97's? In other words, if most of you SS were in the low 90's, with few swings in the 96/97 region you may be better off with the reg flex. 3. TM drivers tend to be whippy, I know cuz they are all I have owned! If you feel that you still have room to grow, then a reg flex may not suit you in a feww months. Whn I bought my driver, I was set on a 9.5* Stiff, after many trials with 10.5* stiff, 10.5* Reg, 9.5* Stiff, and 9.5* Reg, the Reg sutied me better, and I got better results on the launcher with that combination than with any other. The Pro there (He is actually the teachen pro at GG) told me that I was on the cusp (94 Avg), but that my swing was not consistent enough to merit the Stiff shaft. That I would be very effective with it on the first 12 maybe 15 holes, but by the end, and I started to get tired, I would start slicing towards en end of the round. I tend to agree with him. It certainly a very personal decision that one on the boards can answer for you. Go out to a test bay and ask if you can hit for a little while, say 20/30 minutes, and see how your driving changes in that time. if you see constant results with the Stiff, then go for it. My $0.02, I hope it helps a bit!

I think there is a large element of ball selection that has been totally omitted here...cost per ball!!! The difference between Pro V1 and Top Flights is about $30 per Doz. A ball of ProV's foes for average $45.95 (TGW) and the D2's for $15.95 (TGW), that translates to $3.82 and $1.32 per ball respectively. You have to look at this proposition from a cost benefit angle. Most amateurs do need to play tour balls...can we benefit from them ..maybe, maybe not! But the question is can I afford to loose half a dozen balls in an outing at $3.82 a piece...for me the answer is hell no!!!! In USD's we are talking $22 or $7 for the round. I have played about 8 or 9 different balls since I started playing, ranging from $0.55 per ball to the ProV1 at $3.82 balls, and while my short game did benefit from the ProV1, the cost o0f playing these does not justify the minimal results on my score. Most amateurs need to know how to properly swing to make the ball check.. I have been able to accomplish great checking from $20 Gamer and Gamers V2, but my issue is consistency...I have had times that the ProV1 just runs out...... Consistency of game will yield higher returns than the greatest ball or the greatest game. Phil M or Tiger W will kick my a$$ of give them a $20 plastic set from K Mart (balls included). Bottom line is that there are great balls out there for all type of players, and I frankly not all players need ProV1...the Idea that a ball will make me drop my score is nuts, if everything else remains the same ie no classes, no practice, and nothing to change my issues!!). For my game, I have been playing Srixon Tri-Speeds and Top Flight Gamers with great results (gamers are better around the green IMHO) for $2 and $1.50 per ball respectively, and the truth is I will probably loose the ball before it becomes "unplayable" as many have stated. The "game-improvement" benefits of the ProV1 do make sense at my stage of play when taking the cost into account!

I second this.....I'm assuming that JBellanca is using the iPhone....for Blackberry's you do not get aerial views, at least not yet, but the battery does last a long time....I have used my BB for 27 holes, while using e-mail and received a few phone calls.....I still had about 30% battery by the end of the day. And that is the main difference between iPhone and BB in terms of GPS. But bottom line I went through this same situation during Christmas...I decided to spend the $40 for GolfLogix, and the rest of my golf budget elsewhere. I am very satisfied with my decision, I have scorecard, stats, and enough points to make sound decisions on the course. Most GPS units you still have to spend an annual fee, so $40 a year for Golflogix was fine. If you are hard set on a GPS unit, check out sonnocaddie. This was the company that I was really looking at. They have several models, but the v100 starts at $150, and provides a lot of info.

Hey Ronald...my roll I can't tell you with certainty from on-course play. When I was on the launch monitor, i was getting about 15 to 20 yards, but I am not certain that is 100%. I can say the my longest drive was due to a very favorable roll...i hit the fairway on the top of a very slight downhill slope that assisted the roll. Regarding Swing speed...I posted those numbers back in Jan. I have since worked a bit on mechanics, and I really think that I have improved. I would say that I am more consistenely swinging around 94-98 ( I think), because I have seen the results in my distance. Before I bought the r7 Limited, I was averaging in the low 240's with my longest at 253, but I was closer to high 230's more often. I have to say on miss-hits I am still getting 225-230. For me it has to do with the r7 Limited combination, which suited my style more than the r7 cbg Max one did, and thus I was able to improve control on my driving. I made a few adjustments to my swing, primarily stance consistency and working on producing lag, by improving rotation backwards, and through the ball. I picked up a book on Amazon by Tamayo called Finally: The golf swing's simple sectret . I found this book to put it in very easy to understand term how to properly swing the club....any club, with sections on woods, irons, and wedges. I really attribute most of my recent success on the course to the techniques in this book. Checkit out at Amazon...Kindle version $1.00, and soft cover $15. GREAT READ!!!!!

I have not used the the Tri-speed tour yet, and I have very little use nor success with any of the TM balls for some reason.....

Ronald the answer is yes, no , and all of the above... it really depends...the combination of shaft/head/loft/MOI/etc, create very different conditions on all drivers... Personally I switched from a 10.5 to a 9.5 with great success, but I attribute this primarily to the shaft, more than the loft. Here are some of my specs and results at the time I bought my driver in Jan-10: SS: 85 - 96 BS: 101-126 Launch angle 13.5* - 14.5* (consistently) previously at 17* - 19* I was pretty impressed Spin: 4900 rpm (this is a full 1000 rpm less than other clubs I tried) Ball Travel height: ~26 Ft instead of 37... Once i got loose, I started hitting slight draw, between 3 and 7 yard off center. I have since improved on these stats... I can't tell you with definitive numbers, but my from my results on the course. When I got this in Jan-10 I was driving avg 242 with a slight slice. Now I am Averaging 257 with a long drive of 282. I have gone from 57% right of fairway (31% fairway hit) to 42.2% fairway hits, 20% left, and 37% right. Now that I have had time to use it a bit, I am still extremely satisfied with my purchase. With my 10.5 r7 CBG max I was hitting slices that landed on the adjacent fairways....

I would say try the V2....they are actually softer (not clicky at all!!!) I liked the gamer, but I think I will really like the V2...I have only played around the green with it, so I can't fully endorse it, but around the green I found it to be very responsive. As for looking for more Spin....take a look at the Srixon Tri-Speed Tour for around $29 or so. I have been playing the 2008 model Tri-Speed and really like it. I think this ball does not get the attention it should. I have not played the Tour model, but additional spin was difference between it and and the regular tri-speed. These balls are very durable...the longest I have gone is 14 holes without loosing one, and it looked almost new by the time I teed of on 14.

For the Op...I Think that if you feel that the XL is a better ball for you. ....well good for you. If the extra spin and stopping power that premium ball offers does not affect our style of play, then you are making the right choice for you. I think people often forget that golf is a very personal sport. What works for you may not work for me, regardless of the marketing hype. With that said, it is a sport of perception and image. If the Pro V1(x) or Pentas, or ...(fill in the blank) makes you think that you will have better results, then so be it....in game of confidence, a $4 ball may give you that extra encouragement to take a risk or make you think that you can 100% sink that 40 ft putt. It doesn't matter...if it work (in your head or reality) for you, then use it. Now for the rest of people on the thread....do your homework. I am pretty sure that for 80% of people playing Pro V's or B330's or Pentas....you really don't need them. I have played at this point about 7 or 8 different configurations Tri-Speed, AD333, DT Solo Roll, NXT, Pro V1, Slazenger Raw, Mojo, Gamers & Gamers V2, TM TP Reds, Wilson Ultras, Precept EV....those come to mind I'm sure there are a few others (pinnacles come to mind)...bottom line for me loosing a $2.00 ball pisses me off, so the Pro V1's are off limits until I drop about 6 more strokes. Quick review: - DT Solo ....Didn't like much..can't really explain it, but meh! - Mojo SUCKED!!!! Short rocks...that's all I'll say. - AD333 great off the driver, and decent on putting greens, but the short game spin was just ok. - Tri-Speed have very good spin for the short game, and reduced spin on drives, but it does not bite much. - Gamer and Gamer V2 suit my style very well...and at $20 (or less) per dozen, I am pretty happy with the results. I have pretty long drives, perhaps not my longest, but certainly my straightest ones. Short game spin is great, and bite is fantastic. Durability is mostly the issue, but I am most likely will loose it before it is no longer playable. Bottom line play what makes you play better...if it's a $0.50 ball or a $4.00 ball so be it...what ever makes you confident with any situation....for me it's the gamer, followed by the TriSpeed as my balls of choice.

I think you are spot on that statement....low HC seek the control that a high-end ball will provide, while HC seek anything to hang on to their games. And in a way, is what I meant with the stament that high HC seek for game improvement balls.....they need to aid or lessen the damage caused by their crappy swing weather it is side spin or what have you.....but a low HC, can get away using a wilson hyper or no name balls and still play a good round....you may have dificulty sticking greens, but you can somewhat adjust to it...and of ocurse I am not talking in competition.

Distance wise you may get a little more distance out of the 5w, but you get much more versatility out of the 3h. I was under the same dilemma a few months ago, and I was heavily leaning towards the 5w bcs of the classical role it plays in the bag, but I found it difficult to hit the 5w from the rough. Most 5w tend to be shallow faced, requiring a very precise swing. I went with the Cobra DWS 2008 model..i got it on sale for about $80 or so, and I am glad I did. This is my go to club when I am outside of 200 yards from the green, and most definitely when I'm in the 180-200 range in the rough.... This club has a deep face and it plays very well of nearly every surface I have tried. Off the Tee I can get 220, off the deck 200, and from the rough 180 or so depending on the lie. I have been practicing a bit with it, and now I have been able to shape nice draw shots with it. Last week I was behind a tree, left of the fairway, the green directly behind the tree about 180 away. I choked down a bit, closed the face a bit and hooked it beautifully to within 30 yards from the green, slightly to the right of the green ... took a nice chip into green, and single putted for par. I really like this club, certainly my favorite in the bag.

I have bee using a Rife Mr. Beasley for a few months now, and I find it incredible. I have taken my putting game from a 2.44 putting average to a 2.1, with a few rounds as low as 1.9 per hole. I find great confidence in this putter. The balls rolls smooth from the face, it is great from 30 ft out, and deadly from within 6 ft IMHO. You can easily find the Aussie version in the market for about $100 the only difference is the Aussie is a plumbers neck vs. a double bend. Another favorite of mine is the Itsy Bitsy spide from TM....you can find them for $100 new and around $70 used in great shape. I like the balanced feel of this putter, as well as the alignment aids. Coming from the 2-ball, take a look at this putter, you make find it to fit your bill. I use to be a huge fan of the 2-ball series, but i always found them to be tooooo short! The TM Itsy Bitsy provided a similar alignment aid, but much better control and distance. Good luck!

LOL!!!!! so what you are saying is that the softness of the mushroom will help on my short game right? Where can I find one of these??? While I will conceed that the ball will not make you drop 5 strokes, i will certainly help you stay in play better. For a mid to high handicrapper a ball may have an impact on one's game. Once you start getting under 10 HC, you have enough form, swing consistency, tempo, swing path under control that you could hit arock and still get a good shot to the hole. But when you suffer from slices, hooks, low or high trajectories, a ball can make a difference. Some balls don't spin as much (side spin) ging the high HC a better chance to: A) reduce slices and/hooks B) not loose the ball (eliminate penalites and save strokes). C) gain confidence (most important) The firs time I played a Srixon Tri-Speed, I played the same ball for 14 holes....It was the firs time I had done that!!! Prior to that I was using 1 bal per 3 holes more or less... Yes it is not that significant for a low HC, but for high HC, balls do have a role. It does not amke me a sucker for trying different balls. I would make me a sucker if with a 26+ Hc a go and buy $50 Pentas because they " will improve my game" that is bs....but between a wilson hyper to a srixon soft feel or Bridgestone e6, the diffrence is huge!!!