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The main study that is often cited is: Arthur L. Kellermann and Donald T. Reay, Protection or Peril?: An Analysis of Firearm-Related Deaths in the Home, 314 New Eng. J. Med. 1557-60 1986, page 1560. Google for [gun in the home 43 times more likely] to find articles about this study.

The one study that is most often cited is: Arthur L. Kellermann and Donald T. Reay, Protection or Peril?: An Analysis of Firearm-Related Deaths in the Home, 314 New Eng. J. Med. 1557-60 1986, page 1560. Google for [gun in the home 43 times more likely] to find articles about this study.

No advantage.

If you really want to lower your score, don't look at anything Mizuno or Titleist. Look at Adams Idea Tech A4 Hybrid Irons. Look closely at the forgiving clubs by Ping, Calloway, Nickent, Adams, and King Cobra. There is a consistent look that the cast, deep cavity back, forgiving clubs have. And it is not what the Mizuno clubs look like.

If you use the above information to draw some lines and post a video that is slower motion, like my frame by frame video, then I think that people would be able to pause your video, and restart it, and give you a better swing analysis.

So then there is always the discussion about where to draw the lines. I can only tell you what I am looking at on my swing. I draw the bottom line between the ball and where my hands are at 3 o'clock going back, and then the top line is between the ball and where my hands are when they are absolutely coming down. I want my clubhead to be at my hands going back (the bottom line) and I want my club to be coming down the plane at the ball (the top line) on my downswing. This means that I can not draw the lines when I start out. I need to see the video. On the example V1 Home video above, I knew where to draw the lines on that video based on positions on the toolbar buttons above the video area that I had previously memorized by previously viewing that video and drawing those lines. On different videos those lines would end up in different places. Of course I picked this video because it is a good example of what I would like to do all the time. I would like to have a straighter back but when I do I get back pain, I would like for my right knee to be more stable but I am not as flexible as I used to be, and I would like my right elbow to move toward the target more but when I do I do not turn as well and I push it a little bit to the right.

One more thing, I am using Windows Vista and my camera takes .avi videos, so I had to install the VidX codec to play the videos. Don't install the software, just the Codec. It is free. So then to make the video at the top of this page I put my camera on a tripod behind me and took the video. Then my camera allows me to edit the beginning and ending of the video and save to a new file. Then I took out my SD card and put it in my laptop. Then I opened V1 Home. Then I dragged the video into the open screen of V1 Home. Then I drew the lines. Then I started SnagIt with the input set as "region". So then when I went to V1 Home and did a Ctrl-Shit-P to start the SnagIt recording, it allowed me to window my region as only the video window. Then I pressed the next frame button in V1 Home to get the slo mo speed that I wanted. Pressed Ctrl-Shift-P to end the recording. Saved the .avi file. Uploaded that file to YouTube. Played the video on YouTube to get the URL as PBrNisEMds4 and then I wiped my mouse accross only the PBrNisEMds4 part to copy the important YouTube character reference. Then I started a new thread here, clicked on the YT button in the edit box, and pasted in those characters. Buda bing. Buda bam. Buda boom.

And then this is a video about using SnagIt (The older 5.0.2 version is free):

So then this is my video of using V1 home to draw lines and to slo mo and step through the video:

There have been some comments on some of the "Analyze My Golf Swing" threads here that say that the typical golf swing video posted on YouTube and then uploaded here is difficult to analyze because you can not draw lines or go frame by frame. So I thought that I would put together some of the stuff that I have been learning about digital cameras, golf swing software, screen capture software, and YouTube posting to help you improve your golf swing video uploading to YouTube, and then posting it here. The camera I use is the Canon SD800. It allows true 60 frames per second at 320 x 240 video, but only for 60 seconds maximum, but that is plenty for golf swing video. It has 28mm wide zoom equivalent to 35mm. It has a 2.5 inch LCD screen. It uses an SD memory card that I then simply plug into my laptop. It is a great camera. They do not make this camera anymore and the newer Canon SD cameras do not have 60 fps. And not all of the older Canon SD cameras have 60 fps. The SD750 and SD630 cameras have 60 fps and 3 inch LCD screens, but only 35 mm wide zoom equivalent to 35mm. They never made a camera that has 60 fps, 28mm wide, and 3 inch LCD. Darn. That would be nice. This wikipedia article has information on all the Canon SD cameras: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_Digital_IXUS The Kodak Zi6 video camera is awesome, with 1280x720 resolution and 60 fps, but the lens does not zoom and the fixed focal length is not wide enough for me for the places I hit balls. The FREE swing analysis software I am using is V1 Home 2.0 that is available here: http://www.v1golfacademy.com/ The FREE screen video capture software I am using is SnagIt 5.0.2 that is available here: http://www.oldapps.com/SnagIT.php?old_snagit=21 And then the definitive description on how to post YouTube videos is copied here: I would include that when you are posting there is a button at the top of the text edit box that is similar to the YouTube Logo except that it only says YT. You can click on that button to post YouTube videos. The key is getting that string of characters that is the YouTube video reference. When you are looking at a YouTube video, look at the URL and, well, based on the above figure out the characters that you need for that video.

At remember the range: Don't hit a ball with sand on the ball. Don't hit a ball with sand on the face of the club. If you just pour the balls out on the ground, and drag them over, and hit them over and over without cleaning the face of the club, you are going to wear down that face lots faster.

Here I am. This was reduced to 30 fps by Windows Movie Maker.

Just an update on where I am. I did buy the Kodak Zi-6 and kept it for one day. It is a wonderful video camera. Great resolution. 60 frames per second. And the screen is larger than its competition. But it did not have a wide enough angle lens for me to record myself from a close enough position. So after lots of reading and searching, I ended up getting a used Canon SD800 camera on eBay. They do not make this camera anymore. This camera has a 2.5 inch lcd screen, does 320 by 240 at 60 fps limited to 60 seconds, and has the 35mm equivalent of a 28mm wide angle lens. I LOVE IT! The 2.5 inch screen is large enough that I can analyze my swing on the range, and the wide angle lens lets me put my tripod right behind or in front of me on the range. By the way, the newer Canon SD cameras no longer include 60 fps, so don't go down to your local store and get one thinking that it will. Ok. Hold on to your hat. Everyone at work asked me why I bought a CAMERA to take VIDEO. My answer: 60 fps. They all said their video cameras can take 60 fps. I said no they can't, from what I have read, unless you spent like 1500 dollars or more for your video camera. Their inexpensive video cameras take 60p, or 60 progressive FIELDS per second. Not 60 FRAMES per second. 60p is really 30 frames per second. The new Casio EX-F1 camera that everyone is talking about being 300 or 1200 fps, only does that for a limited time and limited resolution, just like the Canon SD is limited to 60 seconds and 320 by 240. That new Casio camera takes 60p video, and 60 fps still images. So. Sports mode. JC Video Golf Analysys software does not recommend cameras with sports mode. It appears that sports mode adds blur to motion to make the video smoother. I would think it would do this by slowing down the shutter speed. Maybe by slowing down the ISO. If you have ever tried to go frame by frame of an action dvd, you know that there is blur there that you don't see as you watch the movie. This is one of the reasons that digital video looks different than film video. Please note that there is confusion on this topic. I even saw a video of a guy saying that sports mode increases the ISO and so therefore shortens the shutter speed. But there are many other forum posts of people who use sports mode and then are disappointed that when they look at the individual stills from the video there is blur. This is not camera shake. And this is not what you want when you are analyzing each frame of the video. I am using the V1 Home free software to look at my video on my computer. I had to install the DivX codec to be able to watch my .avi files. Ok software. It has lines, slo mo, and frame by frame. Does what I need. The upgraded software, for a cost, from V1 allows variable rate slo mo and two videos loaded at the same time. I don't need that. I think the JC Basic is better in that it has a tray at the bottom that allows you to keep a batch of videos right there to look at, and it lets you save your graphics. But it costs more. One last topic. I have downloaded golf swing videos off youtube. I have used vixy.net because it lets me download youtube videos to .avi in one go. But the videos do not show up well in V1 Home. So I bring them into my video studio software (I use Sony Vegas), and edit and publish to .avi, and the video runs perfectly in V1 Home.

If you are recommending that you ingrain the various and infinite feelings of standing on the side of the ball while looking at the target and therefore you are recommending that on the course you align yourself to the target based on the feeling you have when standing at the address position I absolutely and completely disagree with that method and do not believe that one single pro on tour uses that method. The method that I use and that I described was taught by Jack Nicklaus and every teacher that I have taken from and every teacher on the golf channel that I have seen discuss this.

The guy with reputation for the better playing students. But I do not agree with a teacher needing to be scratch. Single digit yes, scratch, no. That said, I have taken LOTS of lessons from LOTS of teachers over the past 12 years, and I NEVER asked about the handicap of the teacher. But yes, they were all able to demonstrate what they were teaching the first time every time. And if one teacher was a 5 yo 9, and I found out that there was another teacher that was a 0 to 1.5, I would never switch to that better playing teacher just because of the handicap. I would only switch if I learned that they taught better or taught what I needed better.

And, around here, you have to have permission from the range to teach, so you have to prove to the range owner that you know what you are doing. I recommend to you, and to any other teachers reading this thread, that they think more about marketing than any of the teachers that I see advertise. If I taught, I would create posters that say things like: "Cure your slice in three lessons or your money back" "Three lessons to get out of the sand in one swing most of the time or your money back" I would also recommend that even if you are not a club fitter that you gather together a bag full of drivers with lots of shafts and lots of degrees. Maybe pick a good driver head from a year ago or so and start searching ebay for that head in different combinations of loft. Stiff 9.5 degree, Stiff 10.5 degree, Reg 9.5 degree, Reg 10.5 degree. The Ping G5 or G10 would be a good head to look for. Lots of those around.

You might like this thread: http://thesandtrap.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25247

Get this camera: http://www.jcvideo.com/Shop/tabid/89...0/Default.aspx Get this software: http://www.jcvideo.com/Software/Digi...8/Default.aspx Or this software: http://www.v1golf.com/products/v1-pro-2009.asp

I would say stop thinking that way. Buy and read Dave Pelz Short Game Bible, and work on 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 swings. Figure out your yardages for those swings for the wedges you have. I would never think that there is a distance gap between your S and your L like there could be between your P and your S, and anyway I would rather hit a part swing P or S inside 70 yards than a full 60* or 63*. If you are thinking about hitting a 60* or 64* L wedge full speed from close I would think that you are going to be backing the ball off the green with the backspin you would create.

I agree with the above and add that again we are saying that speed of play is not based on score. One more thing, how many of you guys could afford to play golf if the only people who were allowed to play were people who were as good or better than you? If you are breaking 90 that 50 dollar greens fee just became 500 dollars if you don't let those other 9 players pay for you to be able to pay your 50 dollars.

That book is completely wrong. What they call a "one plane swing" is actually a "one angle swing", or even a "many planes at the same angle swing". The "one plane swing" described in that book starts with the club shaft at an angle defined by a line from the grip to the ball. Then as the club rotates back, they show the angle of the club remaining the same, but raising up onto a different plane, even though that new plane is at the same angle it started out on. This has created a great deal of confusion for guys like me and Tiger Woods and Adam Scott, who really do get the club up onto one plane about half way back in the back swing, and then move the club up and down to the ball on that one plane. I think the one plane swing described in that book should be called the corkscrew swing, or the helicopter swing, not the one plane swing. The modern golf swing of Tiger Woods and Adam Scott is the real one plane swing.

Yes, proper alignment to me feels open. To set up: I stand behind the ball and pick out something on the ground along my aiming line. Something out somewhere between 3 to 9 feet in front of the ball. I move up to the left side of the ball and put my club head down behind the ball and point the face of the club at the aim point I picked out on the ground. I then take my stance with my feet parallel to the line between my ball and the aim point on the ground out in front of the ball. I do this for every shot from putting to chipping to driver. And I either do this when I practice or I lay a club or yardstick down so I am always thinking about aligning myself PARALLEL to the target line, not AT the target. (Of course I mean that this applies for simple shots with no draw or fade adjustments.)

I agree. Get that book. It will change your life.

Do not hold the angle.

You will hit the ball with more consistent direction and distance if you do the things that you need to do to hit the ground out in front of the ball after you hit the ball. There is nothing magical about the divot. There is something magical about all of the things that are happening in a swing where a divot is going to happen. Look at this thread and watch all the videos: http://thesandtrap.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25189