chilly

I know I really don't need an xstiff. I'm inclined to get a UST V2 75gm or so, in stiff, and change out the shaft in the 3wd and see if it has any effect, before going to a whole new club. I buy used clubs, but still cheaper to go this way.

Forgive what may be an obvious question. I have a Callaway x460 driver, and x 3 Wood, both with the stock Fujikura stiff flex shaft. Lately, I cannot for the life of me hit these clubs straight. Ball starts straight, then turns into a huge slice. Work on the swing, try all the normal fixes, same result. I've gone down to the 5wood off the tee, a Ping G10 with stiff UST V2 shaft. I have been hitting this very straight and long, nice trajectory. Tonight I again was hitting it well, so I dropped another ball and tried the 3wd. Same old story, huge slice right. Hit the 5wd, striped down the middle. Hit the 3wd, big slice right. So, assuming there's no swing variance causing this issue, seems it has to be a difference in clubs. I have a hard time believing that two quality Stiff shafts would act so differently, but I'm starting to lean that way. I can't say I've had my swing speed accurately measured, I was hitting the 5wd 250ish with good swings today. I've hit drivers at Golf Galaxy and will hit a few around 105mph but the simulator is rarely calibrated, so I don't take it as gospel. So, in a nutshell, I'm asking if it's possible that the shaft in the Callaway could be causing the slice to this extent. When I say slice, I mean 50yds right, landing halfway in the next fairway.

I agree, anyone playing the modern clubs available should not throw stones. I realize the argument is being made that club technology does not equal electronics, but I'd say it all just boils down to "spirit of the game" arguments. I'm fairly good at judging distance, but I still like to have an accurate distance when I'm in an odd spot. If judging distance was truly an integral part of the game, why do we even have 100/150/200yd markers on courses? I don't see where walking off yardage to the 150 is essentially any different then a GPS? I've played with a couple guys that own GPS, and I really like them.

Did he have a single element of the game that was holding him back, namely driver? I've seen guys really drop their scores when they figured out how to straighten out their driver, because they immediately weren't taking 4-5 penalty strokes and punching out on several other holes. As expected, these were high handicappers, but if a guy really had trouble with the driver it would be possible even as a mid capper. I don't know that I'd call BS on the guy, but I'd sure put a little money on the game to see how his new game held up under a little "heat".

I like the idea of selecting tees based on a rule of thumb for length, versus straight handicap. I'm a high capper (21) but mostly due to problems with a pull/hook off the tee. I try to work it out on the course versus just hitting a shorter club off the tee, therefore I carry the hacker handicap. I average 190 with a 5i, which would put me at ~6800yds or so. I'd have no issue playing a course that length. Now, that said, I still try to play 6200-6300 or so. This allows me to hit an iron off the tee if my driver/3w issues are just too overwhelming on that day. At some point, punching out of the woods every hole is going to make for slow play, so best to break out the iron and keep it in play. That said, I think a little common sense comes into play. If a guy is carrying a 5hcp but hits his 5i 140yds, I still think he should be playing from the blues.

I still lose my share of balls, so I don't play with high end balls to begin with. But, I don't grab a comparatively "cheap" ball for water hazards. As many have said, I think it just puts me in the wrong mindset.

My entire set is used, not a single club was purchased new. Most were purchased at Golf Galaxy. Driver was $60, 3w was $45, 5w was $80, 2h was $45, 3h&4h were $30ea, irons (3-pw) were $225 minus $50 coupon so call it $175, Vokey's ran $45ea, putter is so old I can't recall but maybe $15. There are some killer deals out there for equipment that is only a few years old and in good shape.

I play Mizuno CLK HiFlis, mostly because I wanted to experiment with Hybrids and found a nice set of 23* and 20* for $30ea used. I've hit quite a few, including TM, Cobra Bafflers, Titleist, Nickent. To be honest, most feel very solid and it's only a matter of finding ones, for me, that don't promote a pull/hook. I'd think you could carry a 23* around 210-215 pretty easily, and a 20* out to 225yds. I like any of the hybrids that have a flat sole that seems to help get through rough, which seems to be most of them at this point.

First of all, good for you, enjoy it. I'm a high 'capper, but I've known the feeling a few times I think it has to do with making a good aggressive swing, not trying to "steer" the ball, and getting proper release through the ball. This would apply across the board.

I have a 18.5* G10 5wd, and a TaylorMade TP 17* hybrid. After playing both, I'd lean towards the hybrid. They both hit roughly the same distance, I've been 250ish off the tee with the 5wd, and I've used the hybrid to be pin high (missed right) from 245yds with the hybrid. The hybrid is a little easier to hit off the deck, and I definitely feel it's better out of the rough.

The TopFlite D2 series ball are fine for a beginner, and only run $15 per box. Or find some good used balls, I get Titleist NXT for $.65/ea from a local Play It Again. Hank Haney, in his swing essentials book, advocates holding the club towards the base of the fingers in your right hand. I've been trying this, and it seems to be a bit more stable.

I'd think it's more of the "long" game. I think that anyone that is a 20 can at least chip and putt proficiently, if not "well". I see more folks (definitely including myself) that put up the big numbers due to having to punch out or take penalty on multiple holes in a round.

I use the zero friction as well, because they don't break. I don't believe they make any difference as far as distance. I hit balls at a range with grass tees, so I can go through quite a few wooden tees in a session, the zero friction hold up through several buckets of balls and reduce the need to dig in the bag after every dozen shots.

I have exactly the same issue and worked with a pro for the first time a few weeks ago to fix the issue. As stated, work on letting the left side do the work, and get a nice easy rhythm going. I hooked everything prior to the lesson, and still do when I try to "get after" a shot. I find that just taking one club more then I think I need usually helps as well.

I find that the FJ Weather Sof and Callaway Warbird both last a long time. They don't have the same feel as fresh real Cabretta leather glove, but I find that over time they give better service and don't dry out like a leather glove. I do find that on really hot days they can swell and fit loose, I think I'll try a smaller size for hot days to see if it fits OK once it gets sweaty.

I've grown to trust my 23* Mizuno CLK Hi-Fli. It's just easy to hit, it can handle any lie, and I'm able to hit it anywhere from 190-215 depending on the situation. Awesome feeling when I hit it true as well, it's the most "pure" feeling I get hitting a ball. It's also the only club that allows me to change trajectory with any confidence. It becomes my club off the tee when I'm having one of those days when nothing feels right, and that's a big comfort in this game.

I play Mizuno CLK Hi-Fli in 20 and 23*. They get through Bermuda rough that no iron could work with, they are playable out of fairway bunkers as well, and they work off the tee on days when the swing is crap. Best part, because Mizuno isn't necessarily recognized for their hybrids, is I've picked them up in great used condition for $30 at the local Golf Galaxy. I also just grabbed a TaylorMade Rescue TP (Tour Preferred) in 17* with x-stiff Fujikura for $60, it felt incredible hitting in the cage.

I've found that I like the x series Callaway, Ping G10, and Cleveland Launcher '09s all quite a bit. I just bought a very nice used condition x Callaway 15* with stiff Fujikura for $45 (which I think is a steal). I also have a Ping G10 18.5* with the UST V2 Stiff, picked it up recently for $85 in good shape. I really like the '09 Launchers and have seen them for $105 used, so you could get any of these under your price requirement. As stated above, rockbottom has the x Callaways brand new for $80, incredible deal.

The 7iron is my honey club, 175yds is very comfortable.

I picked up a Callaway x 3wood used for $45 in great shape. Also grabbed three dozen "experienced" balls, all in great shape, for $.65/ea. Most are NXT or NXT Tour but there's some interesting finds including a Nike Platinum One, Bridgestone E7+, and HX Hot.

I play a Callaway x460, but recently have hit a few smaller drivers and kind of prefer the feel. I picked up a Biggest Big Bertha recently for cheap that I'll try, it's not a small head driver, but it's quite a bit smaller then the 460s.

I get used balls from a Play It Again Sports down the road, $.65ea. You won't find any ProV1's in the bin, but there are many decent balls in there. They "restock" often, so I'll go pick up a dozen at a time. Last run I got a Srixon Z-URC, bunch of NXT and NXT Tour, Nike Juice, Callaway HX Hot, Nike Power Distance, Topflite D2 Straight and Feel...many of the $25-35/dozen type balls. I'm a 23handicapper, so the ball would rarely be the problem in my game. It's fun to try out a "new" type ball every round as well and find which ones I prefer. If I do play a tournament, I'd go with a new sleeve though, more for the mental aspect then anything.

I found a very nice Cleveland Diadic 588 53* today at Golf Galaxy for $16. The sole looks to be a bit more rounded then the Vokey. It doesn't list the bounce, but it looks to be at least 8*. I'm going to practice with both and see if there's anything significant with the rounded sole and more rounded leading edge on the Cleveland. I know technique will probably be the key, but figured I'd try an equipment change to see if it's a simple fix.

I'm glad this topic came up, my home course has Bermuda rough as well. I'm just starting to play so I'm just trying to get the basics, but a few times a round the club gets "hung up" on short chips in the Bermuda. I play Vokeys, is there any preferred brand or bounce angle that works better? I play a 52.08 most times, would more bounce work better?

I play a strong 46* PW, 52* Vokey, and 56* Vokey. I'm just starting out so I'm getting a feel for what I can do with the clubs, but I've been tempted to try a 60* and pull my 5 wood.