Waddaplaya

I did buy the TS3 right on the spot. Sorry I thought I included that. I just meant is there another combination in the sense of a low spin head / shaft combo that people like besides that setup. If that is what I need I really then only hit that one combo of head / shaft with low spin characteristics.

Hey all, I went for my first driver fitting last week and had some interesting results. The driver I brought in to replace was an older G25. I never got along with the driver and never really carried it more than 200 yards. At the time I never really knew my swing speed so I assumed it was pretty slow so I jacked up the loft to 11 and was getting some really high ballooning shots that didn't really go anywhere, however I didn't hit it too offline so I used it. I came into my fitting fully confident I was going to find something that would get me a good bit more distance. Long story short I hit 7 different driver / shaft combinations. I had almost 0 improvement on my existing driver until the last two combinations. I have a left to right movement in my shot and the fitter was explaining that because I was spinning the ball a lot my distance was being killed. I will include the data of the combinations that were hit. As you can see the only clubs that were even trending in the direction of more distance was the TS combinations. He said hang on a second and ran out and grabbed a used TS3 in a 9.5 head with a stiff Hazardous Smoke Shaft. With that last combination I hit 3 of the best shots of the day. It looks like he was able to get my spin down considerably with that combination. However even with the one of the shots with the TS3 spun over 3k and still carried almost 230. So it must be the combination of lowering the loft to 9.5 in combination of the low spin head / shaft that started to help get the ball out there. It is very interesting to me that the TS3 combination is getting 30 + more yards than the other combinations. He said I have a good launch angle but I was creating too much dynamic loft so the 9.5 degree head was working for me. I guess if I were to restart my fitting all over again would I want to start with low spin heads / low spin low launch shafts? Obviously that was the only combination that was getting me anymore distance. It is interesting to see that I was swinging the TS3 combination must faster as well at around 97 mph. At 97 mph I imagine I am still leaving a good bit of distance on the table. I would love any observations, insights, or suggestions about the fitting and the final driver selection. Is there another combination out there worth tinkering with now that I know I am creating a lot of spin and these low spinning combinations help my swing?

Ahh I see. Yea I just didn't realize the acronym. I was like how does Matt's name fit into that. Yes for sure though, he has been a wealth of inspiration for sure. I will check out the other read. Just playing my normal shot shape like Matt suggested has helped my games bounds. One round I literally put every shot I hit all day into a table that had Right, Middle, and Left. I realized I hit 80 percent right to left. Now I have been putting that into play and I am hitting so many more fairways and greens. That sparked my idea for the wedge strategy because I know there has to be something more than just aiming at the green and see what happens.

GSK? LSW?

I've read the normal pro version of the tensei is a low launching shaft, however that is not the shaft that comes with the Ping G410. The tensei that comes with the Ping G410 is supposed to be a higher launch shaft with the Ping G410.

I don't hit the G25 particularly well. I don't necessarily want to dramatically change my ball flight. I like the left to right movement, however I do agree with you on neutralizing it a bit so it doesn't move as much. I was just curious about the 10.5 vs the 9.0 degree. I think a loft of 10.5 which may actually suit my swing speed, but if I decided to close the face a bit I would have to loft it up, which in turn would no longer suit my swing because the loft would be too high. I was thinking it could be smarter to get the 9 degree and loft it up to 10.5 because I would also be closing the face down a bit. So, a more closed face + 10.5 loft would help my left to right movement a bit and also be the correct loft. Maybe?

At a basic level I find it lucky to hit the green with my approach shot. It is interesting to think farther than that and have a strategy. I like the idea of aiming 10 yards short for back pins, 10 long for front and try to hit the exact number on the middle pins. I need to dial in my wedge distances more than they are right now. It is also an interesting idea to try and run it up. I have never honestly though about running a roller into the mouth of the green. I automatically always go for a high lofted wedge. Thanks for the ideas though, they are awesome.

Hey all... I have a question for the forum. I want to refine the strategy I use with my wedges. Usually I just go for the middle of the green and try to choose my distance around pin high. I am always confused as to which distance to hit my wedges. If the pin is 80 yards away, do you try to hit it 80 yards? Do you try to hit it past the pin to 85? Do you try to hit it short at 75? Just curious.

Dollar Driver Club Dollar Driver Club

Hey all, Quick question for you. I discovered this dollar driver club online and am interested in renting a Ping G410 Plus driver. I have demoed it before and really enjoyed it. My current driver is a Ping G25 10.5 set to the neutral position. My natural shot shape is a fade. My question is: should I order a 9 degree G410 Plus and turn it up to 10.5 so that it closes the face a bit and neutralizes my ball flight or should I order the 10.5 and play with it in the draw position?

I need to swap them out. I just have the Cobra Connect sensors in them so it is more of a pain in the ass and more expensive but I get it. Also I think I am putting my ball too far forward with my irons. In the past I moved my ball far forward to prevent hitting it fat by moving my weight forward to get to the ball without the ground first which really does help. I have almost completely stopped hitting fat shots. However now that I am trying to learn to hit a draw I think by the time my club face has gotten to the ball so far forward it is facing left of the target line causing a slice on an outside to inside path instead of in to out required for the draw shape.

I have not placed the club back on the ground but I do think you may be on to something because since I am trying to hit a draw shot with all of my clubs I am attempting to roll my wrists through impact which may be leaving the club too open. Maybe I am rolling the face before impact.

Hello all... I have been tinkering with learning how to hit a draw. I must say it has really helped with my driving. I hit more fairways today with the driver than I have in quite some time. I would say the ball is drawing a ton but it has definitely neutralized the miss to the right and gently drifts back to the left. However, one problem I am having is that I am losing control of my grip through the impact of the ball with my irons. It is causing shots that go way to the right. As soon as I make contact with the ball I lose my grip and the ball slices off to the right like crazy. Would a larger grip help this? I have been fitted for a midsize grip in the past however my new irons are only standard size. Could this make a difference? If not what else could it be. It doesn't happen all of the time but way more than I would like. Thanks , Nick

I am not claiming for certainty that all manufacturers are not extremely consistent. I am providing some data from a specific experience I had to support the original post that clubs bought off of the rack or bought from Ping like my second set were not extremely consistent. Take the information however you like. I am not sour about anything. I just find it interesting and am glad I had the experience. I certainly would like to take specs from a fitting and apply it to other clubs I may want to purchase in the future instead of paying 150+ every time I purchase new clubs.

My experience was with a set of Tommy Armour clubs bought off the rack. The manufacturers are not extremely consistent with mass built clubs, which is the point of the post. No I was not fit for those irons. The swing weights were more then 2 swing weights off between clubs. In terms of shaft flexes I meant there is no standard overall between companies. I understand you can get custom fit for everything under the sun. However if you wanted to buy a shaft from specs you had from a previous fitting then you should be able to figure out where the flexes fall from company to company without purchasing them and testing them for frequency.