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deekay

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Everything posted by deekay

  1. Ahhhh OK. So if you only see one line of red stakes you could reasonably assume that the stream bank/ bush/trees on the "outside" of that line are part of the penalty area. Then in my scenario above, the ball bouncing off a tree was still within the penalty area, and so the ball only crossed the hazard line once (when it left the fairway.) Point "X" would thus be on the fairway side of the hazard. The extended-line-from-the-pin relief would probably not work (it would normally extend into the penalty area), but the two-club-lengths relief would probably be fine. Have I got it right now?
  2. Thanks for the replies. So I guess if the ball in the graphic above had crossed the water, struck the trees, and bounced back in, the point X would be on the far side of the lake, with relief areas areas 2 and 3 also on the far side. Is it not common for the areas on the far side of lateral hazards to be pretty unplayable (stream banks/bushy/wooded) and so the only practical course of action would be to play a provisional, in anticipation of stroke-and-distance, which I thought the new rules were trying to avoid as much as possible, for pace-of-play reasons? Or is that where the local rule mentioned by @RemyM could apply? Where would such a rule be indicated?
  3. Hi everybody, Two quick questions: A stream runs parallel to the fairway, and I hit a ball that crosses the stream on the diagonal, hits a tree on the far side, and bounces back into the hazard. Where the ball first crossed the hazard line is quite close to me, and where it last crossed (after the ricochet) is on the far side, further from me but closer to the green. According to 2019 rules, where do I drop? Would this be the same as when a ball crosses water, hits something, and bounces back into the water from the far side? E.G. When playing an approach shot or par-3 over water.
  4. Hi all, After years of playing I still hit at least 5 or 6 real chunks every round I play, and there is no worse feeling (for me) in golf. It's the one shot that will have me giving up the game. I believe it is because I struggle to shift my weight/pressure forward through the ball, especially on the course where one cannot always be sure of a comfortable stance. I can swing through onto my front foot in my practice swing without a problem, but put a ball there and the "hit instinct" kicks in ....... I have searched extensively on the internet and there is a ton of information/videos about how important it is to shift your weight forward into your follow-through, how all good ball strikers do it, and how it should look, and so on. But that's generally where it ends. In other words, a huge amount of "this is what you need to do," but not so much of "this is how to to train yourself to do it." This is such a common fault among newer golfers/ high handicappers, so I would like to hear from the instructors here what has assisted their students in the past where a lack of weight/pressure shift forward has been identified as causing fat shots. I understand that without video it cannot be absolutely certain that this is my priority, but if it was, what feels/drills have helped you or your students with this problem?
  5. If you go to andrewricegolf.com a few pages back in the blog section he did spin tests. If I remember he used one wedge where the grooves had been ground off, leaving the face completely smooth. Hope the page is still there....
  6. I think the lost ball/OB local rule is going to be a nightmare. Say for example a golf tries to play the ball over a dogleg left, and ends up pulling it into the trees/bush of the dogleg itself. Now he has to extend an imaginary line from the pin (which he may not be able to see) through the estimated position of the ball, and back towards the tee. Then he has to extend a 2nd imaginary line from the pin (which he still cannot see) through the bush/trees of the dogleg, to intersect the edge of the fairway at a point a little further from the pin than the ball. (The intersection on the pin side of the corner is no good as it would surely be much closer to the hole.) Given that this rule is actually written for the golfer who will need to apply it often (non-elite), can you imagine just how long all of this is going to take (perhaps multiple times per round) while the player plods around in the rough to try to establish the one line, then walks (in some cases) halfway across the fairway to establish the other line, and then ponders exactly where to drop the ball? If he drops on the fairway he may still be blocked by the dogleg, while if he drops from the rough he might be able to play through a gap, but from a poor lie. Should the law not be simplified to just say "Drop the ball within 2 club lengths of the closest edge of the fairway in play, which is not closer to the hole." P.S. I don't understand the graphics posted above with regard to my original question. As I read it, the rule calls for both lines which define the drop area to originate at the hole?
  7. How would the lost ball/OB rule apply in the case of a ball flying over a green which is at the boundary of the course, and then being lost/OB on the far side of the green. The penalty drop would then be closer to the hole? Or would you have no other choice but to replay the shot?
  8. How are these stats to be interpreted? Driver technology is focusing more and more on maximizing distance on off-center strikes. This would surely shift all players' average driving distance up closer to their maximum distance, but without necessarily increasing that maximum all that much? On the other hand, if these figures represent the average of every player's longest drives, would they not be achieved under special circumstances, e.g. down hill and down wind? So those longest drives are not the norm. And would they not be cancelled out when those same players then have to play back up hill and against the wind on adjacent holes? To my mind its not (yet) about maximum driving distances, it's more about the score. When tournaments are being won with scores of -25 to -35 then I would say courses are being overwhelmed. But in the -10 to -20 range I think it's fine: plenty of birdies and a few eagles to keep the excitement up, and also to give an opportunity for someone to "come from behind" and catch the leader.
  9. Thanks for the prompt help. Much appreciated.
  10. Ahhh, thanks, I guess I fell foul of the "less than 4 letters" stipulation. I was trying to search for "fat shots" as I fatted a few last time I played. Any suggestions for better search phrases to help me find info/drills?
  11. Hi. The "Search" function is not working for me. It just returns "0 results for your search" I can be in a topic and type the same topic's title into "Search" and it still returns 0 results....
  12. Hi all, I have noticed that tiny rust spots have developed on the metal shafts of my irons and putter. I am afraid that trying to buff/polish this off will "open up" the rust and really cause it to take hold. Or that I would damage the shiny surface of the shafts. Any advice? Should metal shafts be lightly oiled? P.S. I live on the coast, where rust can be a problem on older vehicles, for example.
  13. Hi all. Really enjoy reading the club reviews on here, but they seem to have come to a halt?
  14. When I simulate an impact position (hands ahead of the ball, hips shifted slightly towards the target) with the club face square to the target line, the club face appears closed if I then return to a more centred setup position (without changing my grip). Conversely, if the face is square at setup, it then appears open in the impact position. With some of the replies here in mind, does this mean that I am shifting too much towards the target at impact? Or perhaps something wrong with my grip?
  15. By the way, where did that "How far do you hit each club?" thread disappear to?
  16. Thanks again for the comments. I will try to get to a shop nearby with a launch monitor, and take the 3-wood with. Perhaps at my skill level I should stick to the 3-wood and just try to get a more modern one. But judging by the comments, that doesn't look like it will be worth the money either. Only one way to find out, so off I go......
  17. Thanks for all the good advice. My thinking was that I am playing a really old 3-wood, and so surely a 3 or 4 generation "newer" 3-wood should give more distance (assuming a similar strike, which should surely come with practise) and a similar generation driver (to the newer 3-wood) should give even more. So I find some of the comments about only 20 yards or so increase from a 10-12 year old 3-wood to a 2 year old driver quite depressing! (Otherwise, what have the equipment people really been doing all these years, other than writing really creative advertising copy?)
  18. I recall a topic about "How far do you hit each club...and don't lie.", but I couldn't find it with the search function. Can someone please point me to the correct forum? That info may be helpful to me. Thanks.
  19. Hi all, I am a fifty-something bogey golfer who doesn't own a driver. I tee off with an old Powerbilt Grand Slam 15 degree 180cc 3-wood. I generally get about 210-ish carry distance and about another 10 yards roll. Call it about 220 yards total. With those figures, what sort of distance gain could I reasonably expect if I bought myself a 2-3 year old driver? I gather that there would at least be a little more roll with a driver. It probably wouldn't be adjustable, so what loft would be recommended? (Our weak currency makes equipment very expensive where I stay, so a new model driver is out of my reach.)
  20. Would grounding your club in soft sand not improve your lie? And if this violates another Rule, would we not then require on-the-spot video to determine whether the lie was or was not improved? I would hope the modernization helps eliminate such controversies..... (The ball-at-rest on the green Local Rule didnt do that, because, as I understand it, you still need to establish accidental/intentional movement, as the 2 situations call for differing procedures.)
  21. Thanks for the comments. I will sort out a swing video and post it. As enthusiastic as I am, I (like many others I am sure) am not able to spend hours and hours practising or taking lessons. I was just asking for guidance so I dont waste the practise time I do have chasing something that may not be necessary.
  22. I agree my push/slice is caused by the clubface being open to the path. I just want to know if there is any other way to help me square up the clubface, other than the flat wrist at the top, which I just don't seem able to do....
  23. Hi all, Just about every slice "fix" on the internet seems to focus on developing a flat left wrist (right handed player) at the top of the backswing. You almost get the idea that you are doomed to slice every tee shot you hit for the rest of your life if you don't have that flat wrist at the top. As a bogey golfer I am also prone to the more-than-occasional slice with my woods. The problem is that as soon as I do anything to consciously flatten that wrist my entire swing falls apart. I am lucky if I even make contact with the ball at all! It just feels horribly unnatural. What I have had success with, without discernible loss of launch/distance, is to address the ball with the club face slightly closed Now if the club face "lags behind" it ends up square, rather than closed, at impact. I know it's a band-aid, but it does work for me. (Is this not also how draw biased drivers work?) Is this flat wrist thing really essential? I can see it's not one of the 5 keys, but is it nevertheless a must-have?
  24. I have the same problem, but have come to the conclusion that in my case it's not because of something I am doing wrong at the range, but rather because of what I am doing on the course. When I began playing golf it was with a regular group who were extremely impatient, always moaning if we were held up even for a few minutes by the group ahead. So the idea of golf being a deliberate, methodical game never really took hold. It was all about playing as quickly as possible. Now when I play I often find myself marching up to the ball and immediately swinging in the general direction I want it to go, without any real decision making or consistent setup routine. The result is that my game is not really improving. I don't feel that pace-of-play pressure at the range, and am able to concentrate much better. Obviously I hit the odd poor shot, but nothing like the rank horrible ones that are all too frequent on the course! It's a good idea to pretend that you are on the course while you are at the range, but for me it seems to be more about pretending I am at the range while actually playing on the course!
  25. Yeah, yeah,yeah. Humor aside, I would still like to know whether this is in fact a good checkpoint to see whether you have the correct spine angle/shoulder plane. I struggle with coming over-the-top and was wondering if my lead shoulder was moving too far in front of my chin, rather than under it.
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